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Who is Dr Turbo?

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An IC sprayer is going to be a must for a good road race car or for dragging for that matter. The idea is simple the task is actually kind of difficult. A mist is ideal for what an IC sprayer should be like in the produce section of a grocery store. I used to work at one and I know what kind of pressure is used to achieve that mist and it is a lot, so the mist was pretty much shot.

The pressure from the windshield wiper fluid reservoir pump should be enough not to mention it will supply the tank as well. I needed some nozzle that spray in a nice pattern and I was able to easily find them on the end of a pair of 409 bottles from the kitchen. I drilled a couple of holes in the front bumper and then played with angles and then finally got them situated and epoxied them into place. Next I needed to actuate them with a switch so I took a spare rear window defogger momentary switch and put it where the auto pop up button used to be, ran the factory wiring from the column switch up to the new button, and all at the same time making it look completely stock.

One other note for this mod is that a check valve must be used to keep all the water from leaking out of the system since the nozzles sit lower in the system than the tank, in fact two might need to be used. A 2g comes in handy here because they just happen to have these lovely little blue check valves from the factory for their windshield wiper set up, however last I checked these parts are now obsolete.
 

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Keep feeding us the story man, I'm bored as #### at work and this is a good read. F&ck all the haters!!

I definitely want to hear more, this is a good story/buildup with some cool ideas like the recent speaker in seat, and FMIC sprayer.

A lot of the people aren't hating, they are just treating Highboost similar to how he's treated other members in the past
 
I definitely want to hear more, this is a good story/buildup with some cool ideas like the recent speaker in seat, and FMIC sprayer.

A lot of the people aren't hating, they are just treating Highboost similar to how he's treated other members in the past

That is only a 1/2 truth. Yes I have talked smack and made fun of some people, but I have never ruined a build thread, those are holy grails and not to be touched. I dish it out, I can certainly take it... sticks and stones the show must go on.

With the front bumper covering my FMIC it is like hanging a bag over Katherine Zeta Jones face... just wrong. That thing needs to breathe, so the bumper needs to be trimmed up. I have seen tons of these done and to each their own, but I really didn't want some hack job with the bumper flapping around in the wind so I really put some time into this one. I needed a design... a shape to cut out. So Microsoft paint got pulled up and I photoshoped about 20 different ideas of the cuts I might make. I easily narrowed those down to about 4-5 selections and then just whittled it down to one. The first pic is the photoshoped version, the second is the actual bumper after cutting it. The main goal was that the center had to have some material to give the bumper integrity, a huge hole is just too much and makes the bumper weak and flimsy. The bumper is finally competley assembled and tight, I'd say I got it pretty straight you would not be able to tell a conversion was even done.
 

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Found a video of the Dr. in action from a while ago

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A lot of good stuff here.We all like to feel proud about our work and I think thats all dr.turbo is doing...sharing his story and progress wouldnt really classify him as a pompus a-hole.I dont care about past comments he has made, as they dont pertain to the thread.This is about his history with dsms, thats all.Im more amazed by how much money he has thrown away in the cars, but respect him for not quitting.
As always, I love the shit talkers...especially from the people who join the forums a few months ago and just jump on the shit talking band wagon, with no reason behind it...LOL.Good luck bro.
 
That is only a 1/2 truth. Yes I have talked smack and made fun of some people, but I have never ruined a build thread, those are holy grails and not to be touched. I dish it out, I can certainly take it... sticks and stones the show must go on.

Richard's 1ga was about how he just bought his dsm after owning a TurboBuick as well as many v8 chevy's and you bashed him for owning non-dsms.
I have a 70camaro bigblock that I neglect because I keep dumping money into my pos dsms. My friends and family give me a hard time about it. So I have to defend my 20mpg, daily drivability and power,etc all the time. So i'm not a real dsmer because i've owned v8s?
Direct quote from the DR:
"Wow I feel my mullet growing longer just reading this thead. I don't understand chevy guys that own DSMs, please stick with the bow ties and leave the diamonds to us."

There was much more you said in there that got deleted just as many things CrimsonDragon said on here that got deleted

One thing i've learned, that with enough $money$ and the right combo of parts, you can make any car fast. Dsm's are capable of it on a tight budget though compared to other cars!

Your build thread is good and I want you to continue, just realize you have offended many in the past and that's the whole truth
 
Christmas 07 By this time the dry build is just about complete which means I have everything situated just the way I want it and it is time to tear it all back apart and start rebuilding everything. By now I have changed every panel on the car. I changed both doors to rid of all the holes from the wrap around spoiler and of course the front and rear end but you already knew that if you have been reading. Here are a few shots of the dry build complete.
 

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^^^ If Hannibal Lecter owned a DSM I think it would look something like this
 
That is one of the better looking bumper mods Ive ever seen. So many people make them look ugly as sin... Hack jobs, like you said. props man.
 
Until the spring of this year this entire build took place outside on the side of my parents home, just as you see from the pics above. So once the winter comes in Ohio from Thanksgiving until March Madness is over for me DSM work pretty much doesn't exist; if it ain't 50 out I ain't working on it. Well funds are always the issue and as much as I would like to build some super sweet $5000 motor I don't have it and I want to put that money into other places so I am just going to rebuild my tired motor. By now we all know they are good for 500 whp anyhow so I figure once I have conquered that barrier we can invest into something more.

Jan 08 Tear down shows no signs of anything bad, original hone marks are still there with no vertical scratches in the walls. Head gasket was fine, I just thought to myself how much of a champ that motor was, it even survived the wreck where the tree hit the drivers side and jammed the whole wheel well into it.. The tree hit so hard it pushed the drivers axle all the way though and when it got to the diff it stopped resulting in ripping the bell housing off the block. Sorry I don't have pics of that my, I lost the digital camera during the wreck, I still think one of the medics or some one from the tow company stole it.

Any who, so at the good graces of my parents they agreed to let me build an engine in the basement over the winter where it is warm. I didn't take a lot of pics of that because honestly who cares, look pistons, rings, bearings, front case, etc etc besides there are plenty of other threads documenting a motor build.
 

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I want to document all the frustrations I had while doing this project as well and this was the first biggie. For my valve cover I wanted to have the word “DSM” polished and then clear over it and the paint. It was all fine till I tried to clear the entire section around the word “DSM”, that POS high temp clear rattle can actually stripped the paint... like it bubbled like aircraft stripper I couldn't believe what I was seeing in front of me. No real point just wanted to mention I was completely pissed, I missed a NFL playoff game for that matter, the Packers were playing I can't remember who but I think it was an upset and Aaron Rodgers was coming out that game in the frozen tundra of Lambeau field.
 

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Spring 08 Warmth again and I wanna do a little more weight reduction. Those damn doors weigh 8 bazillion pounds so it is time to lighten them up. This is very easy to do. Step 1 remove more material inside the door. Step 2 Very carefully use a wiz wheel and cut each peak and valley of the crash beam. When cutting the valleys take your time and go slow, I was able to do this with out nicking or touching the door skin. Oh note, if you cut where I made mine it will come out very easy so you can use this as a guide, if you cut somewhere else it might not come out as easily. Step 3 Drill the spot welds on the inside of the door on the outside door handle side first. Step 4 If you own a guitar great if not I had to go to the guitar center and purchase a string... I don't remember which one it was but it cost a whole $1. Feed the string behind the crash beam and then wrap each end around your fingers and began to saw up and down on the putty that is between the door skin and crash beam, work the half closest to the outside door handle first, once the putty is cut the crash beam can easily be removed, repeat for the other half. 17 lbs a side is what I got.
 

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I am at a crossroad at this point in my build. I have to make a very big decision. Fuel cell or not to fuel cell? What are the pros and cons: Pros = less weight Cons = fab up a trunk, track legalities, not being able to hold as much fuel, and not to mention about a $1000 mod when all said and done considering a cell, misc aluminum, welding, sending unit, gauge, etc. But I really want one. Pouring over Jeggs and Summit catalogs are not satisfying my thirst. This project has been eating at me for years now, and it has to be done, what to do what to do??

Here is what I want: 1) I want the tank on the passenger side for better weight distribution 2) I don't want to buy a gauge or sending unit 3) I don't want the tank inside the cabin because I don't want to firewall it in for the track 4) The tank needs to still hold quit a bit of fuel 5) I want the exhaust to exit on the drivers side 6) I had to use the stock filler neck in the stock location..

Sounds easy enough, so after staring and measuring and doing a lot of calculations for days I think I have the dimensions that are going to make this work. First thing was to say good bye to that STUPID hump in the trunk, see ya. In the second pic you can see the frame rail with tan lines. That was where the old factory mounts/studs were for the factory tank went, they had to go for me to get this thing to fit.
 

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So my highest point that the tank can go is about 2" below the floor on the trunk. I need the inlet on the tank at it's highest point hence the 2” buffer. Good luck struck here, the factory filler neck was right where I needed it, I just needed the thing to come up a few inches. Normally it runs underneath the frame rail, I needed it to go right through it. Holes saws come in handy for projects like this.
 

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Next I was able to acquire an old aluminum gas tank from the 70's. It was the exact dimensions I needed minus the width, but that would be super easy to change, and the best part is was free. I scrubbed and cleaned it the best I could but couldn't get all the residue out of where the welds were but I figure a few tanks of gas once the car running will free it up and clog the filter. I make a cut to the tank to the right width and start to fit it up there as a rough sketch.
 

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I have the placement of the tank itself where I want it, next I had to get the inlet, and overflow tubes lined up where they were going to be welded. It was also my next task to incorporate the stock sending unit into this tank so that I could use the stock fuel gauge. What I did was find a point where I wanted to mount the stock sender, drilled about a 2.5” hole for it to fit through, and then drilled 5 holes in a star pattern where each hole was tapped at 6mm. I then coated each bolt in gas tank sealer and threaded them up from the inside of the tank, that gave me studs similar to stock except I used 6mm SS instead of crappy 5mm steel.

Now I had to make a plate with 5 corresponding holes that would go over the existing hole and studs. I took the stock leveler and unbolted from the top stock plate and then mounted it to my new plate. I had to very carefully mount studs such as stock to allow for the transmission of electrical signals for the gauge and low fuel warning light. These studs can not touch any metal or else I would have a dead short so extra precaution was taken. The last thing that was needed to do was the leveler. The stock leveler sits much deeper so I measured the depth of this tank and shortened them accordingly so that the gauge will read accurately. In the pic you can see where I have zip tied one item that is the low fuel indicator, it was too low so I just brought it up and the armature had to be cut and welded to its new location as you can see. After everything is tidied up I ran a bead of gas tank sealer around the hole for the gauge leveler and tightened up the nuts.
 

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The properties of the tank are taken care of so I went ahead and started to make the mounts for the tank itself. For the rear I was able to use two of the stock studs.... score, but in the front I had to run bolts through a seam weld instead from inside the trunk itself. Keep in mind every time I need to weld something I am driving to the welders since I am not doing any of the work myself. We get everything tacked up and start to check and adjust for straightness and levelness, it took a few times but we got it. Careful consideration was taken into how the pre filter, fuel pump, post filter, the sump and the mounting bracket were all going to work, more on that later.
 

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By this time I had acquired a much nicer teal bumper and had thrown away that nasty white one, it was a good trade for my old flip up front bumper. The problem with laser tail ends is that any after market muffler sticks out like a sore thumb because all exhaust are created with a talon or eclipse in mind and those covers hang much lower so when a laser bumper is used the muffler is just dangling like a dick in the wind. This problem was easily fixed by picking the exact location of my choosing and trimming the cover to contour the muffler itself with the muffler all up in the body hidden looking much more aesthetically better, ohhh I am starting to like this car.
 

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Look REALLY good, I'm not fond of the placement for your tank but I understand for track reasons. I like the muffler. I like how you brought in something old school and put it in new, I fabbed up the fuel cell for my Camaro from a 74 Impala. Smallest tank I could find as I didn't need or want large quantities of fuel. Mine is welded to the trunk floor and we expanded the filler hole to use stock location. Good work, keep us posted! :thumbs:
 
Sorry for jumping around a bit in the time line but I am trying to keep the projects somewhat together even though I bounce around on projects when I did the car itself. By the time the tank was done I had finally finished up the wire tuck up front under the hood. Before some might cry foul, I just wanted to say I had no intentions of taking the stock fuse block and hiding it in the trunk or where the SMIC goes. I like it right where it is, out of the way, and it doesn't really make the engine bay look crowed if you ask me, but to each their own. The wiring is pretty simple hidden up under the fenders, wires coming from the battery to the engine bay fuse block, and of course the engine bay harness is needed, other than that there isn't too many wires. I am keeping the battery inside the engine bay, no trunk mounting, I have had nothing but problems in the past with that mod, besides I really didn't want to drap15 ft of 2ga for power, just not worth it. Wire tuck complete.
 

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The build is going well and I wanted to start to do doing some body work. My existing windshield was crack at both ends on the top so that thing had to go. I had the Safelite guy come out and just remove the windshield first because I knew that there was some rust under it. They were cordial and said they would make two trips. The installer said the window had been replaced once before but they did a horrible job hence all of the rust. I don't own a DA, should have got one, instead I just sanded the piss out of it and got the majority of it off. What I couldn't get off I used a real rust inhibitor. The chemical is phosphoric acid, it actually chemically changes rust into this black material which is paintable. Now use discretion with this stuff it can't turn a completely rusty thing new but surface or maybe some pitting as this it works awesome... as the pics show. After everything was cleaned up I used some of my epoxy primer urathane sealer to go around the perimeter. One should use a urathane primer instead of an enamel because the stuff they glue the windshield in with is uranthane and this special paint helps adhere where the enamel will be eaten by the urathane glue.. according to my painter. Safelite came back out and installed the windshield and I was good to go, price was around $185 with AAA discount.
 

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1gs were designed with flip ups in mind and when they went to fixed headlights they didn't change the core support and make the car different, so now that I have done this conversion and you can see all that crap where the headlights are. That had to be closed up for this to be a clean looking car, so I bought a bunch of sheet aluminum and started shaping and making panels to make things nicer. I was really pleased with how they turned out.
 

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Ahh yes, those nasty wheel wells. Get out the garden hose and a wire brush and start scrubbing. Get as much off as you can, then wash them down with the hose, tape EVERYTHING off as the undercoating will speckle in places you can't imagine, and then paint.. ahhh just like new.
 

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