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Which wideband?

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rated x

15+ Year Contributor
140
2
Jul 13, 2005
yorktown, Virginia
I've been searching the forum and still don't know what wideband is the easiest and best to understand or actually tune with.I'm pretty new to tuning so I don't know where to start or what all to get to start tuning.Also if I have an safc-2 do I still need a datalogger to tune?Don't I need a laptop to tune?TIA.
 
If tuning is confusing you can always get an eprom ecu (95 Eclipse/ Talon) and get a keydiver chip www.dsmchips.com , and that will give you a few extra options. ie: selectable launch"stutter box", raise rev limiter, compensate for bigger injectors and many other features. As far as tuning with a Afc you will need some kind of wide band or you can go to a dyno and get tuned. You will have to retune for performance changes so that means either knowing how to tune with the wide band or going back to the dyno or just getting an new chipped burned and pop it in the ecu.

I recommend the eprom and stage 3 chip for people like me that are not tuning literate! :D
 
i would AEM wideband is a great one to get I have it. Its so nice to know what the car is running at so I know if its happy or not, the AEM has saved me from some big problems in the past. The one nice thing about is so easy to use with other tunninig programs out there right now. So I push for the AEM you will not go wrong with it:thumb:


:dsm:
 
I also have the AEM Uego. I like it, it has the gauge display that can be placed in a pod. I also have it set to display through DSMlink. One thing about the AEM is, the narrowband simulation only works if you have an AEM EMS. Not many get the narrowband simulation to work well on other widebands either, so thats not really a big deal. You can find it on ebay for around $280 shipped.
 
First, you still need a datalogger before you get a wideband. If you aren't able to log timing advance, you will never be able to do any effective tuning with a WBO2 anyway. Also, you don't need a laptop to tune. Most DSM loggers work with PDA's, which can be found for cheapo. However, you generally need a laptop to log with widebands.

Once you have a logger, get a wideband that has the features you are looking for. In my opinion, you must be able to log RPM with AFR, or you are not going to accomlish very much. The Zeitronix WBO2 allows you to log TPS and RPM by tapping the proper wires going into the ECU. The Innovate LM-1 allows you to log RPM if you have the additional RPM converter. If you have DSMLink, you can log just about any WBO2 system on the market.
 
Ok guys you are talking to someone that knows nothing about tuning so right now I feel like a baby trying to walk from a crawl.Can I just buy the sensor and the gauge or do I need a piggyback system or how does it work.I heard of aem uego but is it just like a gauge or a ecu piggyback?What all do I need?Thanks for helping guys.Please bear with me.
 
You can can buy just the gauge and sensor, but like 1990EclipseGSX said, it doesn't help much unless you can log it with rpm. You want to be able to view your A/F ratio and RPM side by side. This will give you the ability to see if your running too rich or too lean at a specific RPM.

The AEM Uego is a guage and sensor. You put the gauge in a pod and put the sensor in the exhaust. The gauge also has a wire that can be connected to a datalogger, DSMlink, or EMS. It is not a piggy back, no changes can be made with the Uego it only displays the A/F ratio.

You need to decide how your going to datalog and then detemine what gauge suits you. If your not going to use DSMlink then I would get a wideband that has the ability to log RPM or get a pocketlogger/loggable wideband setup.
 
Stratus said:
I also have the AEM Uego. I like it, it has the gauge display that can be placed in a pod. I also have it set to display through DSMlink. One thing about the AEM is, the narrowband simulation only works if you have an AEM EMS. Not many get the narrowband simulation to work well on other widebands either, so thats not really a big deal. You can find it on ebay for around $280 shipped.

Why would you need the narow band if you had a EMS?
 
Real quick one.Do you replace your stock 02 sensor with the wideband or do you have to weld in a bung for it?If you do replace one of the 02 sensors then which one?
 
rated x said:
Real quick one.Do you replace your stock 02 sensor with the wideband or do you have to weld in a bung for it?If you do replace one of the 02 sensors then which one?
You could do either one. Most wideband kits are capable of simulating the narrowband signal for the stock ECU. If you dont know much about widebands and wiring, then it might be easier [more simple] to just weld in the included bung and only use the wideband output.
 
It can be better to have a bung farther down the downpipe. I've read that you can overheat the sensor and get inaccurate readings if it's too close to the turbo. From what I read, the sensor is designed to operate at the temperature the heater control circuit is supposed to keep it at to give consistent readings, but if it's heated past that temperature it changes the reading. People put them in the stock location and they seem to work fine, but as a precaution in my friend's car we had an extra bung welded in right at the first bend of the downpipe, and I'm going to weld my bung in near the firewall about 12-16" ahead of my cutout.
 
Caithness said:
It can be better to have a bung farther down the downpipe. I've read that you can overheat the sensor and get inaccurate readings if it's too close to the turbo. From what I read, the sensor is designed to operate at the temperature the heater control circuit is supposed to keep it at to give consistent readings, but if it's heated past that temperature it changes the reading. People put them in the stock location and they seem to work fine, but as a precaution in my friend's car we had an extra bung welded in right at the first bend of the downpipe, and I'm going to weld my bung in near the firewall about 12-16" ahead of my cutout.

I have read 3 feet from the turbo but always before the cat if you have one is the best place for a wideband. I have mine right after the first curve of the dp and it works grate (i think ;) )
 
Irrational said:
Why would you need the narow band if you had a EMS?

On the EMS, I guess its not really "narrowband simulation". My point is the white wire (the wire you would use for narrowband simulation) doesn't work too well on our cars. If connecting the Uego to an EMS you would use the white wire to feed the o2 signal. Consult page 5 of your Uego manual for more detail.

Rated X-
Weld another bung in. The stock sensor locations are not good. The 1st sensor is too close to the turbo and the second sensor is after the cat. The life of the sensor will be shortened if its exposed to very high temps. My sensor is also in the first bend of the down pipe, it should probably be a little further down but it fit better.
 
Ok so all I need is the sensor and the gauge and not ems if I'm planning on going with dsmlink,right?
 
Yea, if you are getting DSMLink, you don't even need a wideband that utilizes a display. You just need a wideband with only a sensor and a main box, as stated above.

The Innovate LC-1 is like this, and it has two programmable outputs. You can run one into DSMLink, and then if you still want a gauge, you can get a $10 digital voltmeter display, and use the second output on the LC-1 to operate it as a gauge. The LC-1 is pretty inexpensive also, and the unit is tiny.
 
The LM-1 has quite extensive internal logging capabilities. Allows you to log lots of additional sensors internally in the unit, and then you can export the logs to your computer. However, if you have DSMLink, none of these features are really useful, at all. I have the LM-1, and if the LC-1 was available when I bought my wideband, I would have gone with it instead.

Both links are what your looking for.... I would get the first one, and then get something like THIS for a display. I use something very similar with my LM-1. I can take some pics if you want.
 
Thank you so much 1990eclipsegsx.Pics would be appreciated also.I'm going to buy it now but I'm not going to install it until I get everything squared away with the eprom ecu and dsmlink.
 
dunno if this has been answered (please don't flame me, I have an english paper to write...)

but whats the difference between the different aem wideband o2 sensors? I want the best one that comes with a gauge that I can mount under my boost gauge, but if all the features that are added are useless, I can just get the cheaper one.

sbr has two:
http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.p...38&PHPSESSID=6ead3473a7a454a1433c48038915c2cf

diamondstarmotorsport has three it looks like:
http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/EMS.shtml

buschur has three:
https://secure.buschurracing.com/ca...22_43&osCsid=1c4214ed82b85677b4660bb0ff2ec99d

what do I need? I want a wideband o2 sensor with a gauge and any useful feature that won't cost an arm and a leg...
 
rated x said:
Thank you so much 1990eclipsegsx.Pics would be appreciated also.I'm going to buy it now but I'm not going to install it until I get everything squared away with the eprom ecu and dsmlink.

Here is a pic of what I did for a display in my 1g. I put it in front of the stock oil press. gauge since I have an autometer oil press in my gauge pod. All you have to do is program the output on the innovate to 1.00v @10.0:1 AFR and 2.00v @ 20.0:1 AFR. Works perfectly.
 

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Thank god for competition and the likes of Innovate to make/price Widebands/other professional datalogging tools within reach of any tuners budget. $200 is a steal for this kind of tool.

Looks like that eBay shop uses a similar display for their $279 LC-1 package but displays AFR instead of voltage.

I'm slow to begin with, so converting voltage to AFRs on the fly would have me thoroughly puzzled :coy: ;) :dsm:
 
The display is showing voltage as actual AFR. The 1.98 is 19.8:1 AFR.... I took the pic with the car off. No converting on the fly, don't worry :)

If you set the innovate set to display 1.00V @10.0:1 AFR, and 2.00V @20.0:1 AFR, you just have to move the decimal one place for AFR.... 1.47V= 14.7:1AFR, 1.11V= 11.1:1 AFR, etc. See what I mean?

The programmability of the innovate products makes it possible to do cool stuff like this for cheap. My display was about $10.
 
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