which wideband? quick answer.

[hurricanecris24]

okay i got a 99 eclipse and gonna be tuning with evoscan which wideband would be better?AEM UEGO WIDE BAND O2 GAUGE?innovative lc1 wideband? i can get both for the same price

 

[92AWDHX40]

i would go with the lc1

 

[hediki12]

i would go with the lc1

+1
the uego is good and all but its not as versatile as the lc1

 

[RadDsm]

Another vote for the LC-1.

 

[Aproductions]

I have the AEM one because I have OCD and my other gauges are AEM.

If I didn't care I think I would have got the LC-1...I hear great things about it.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I happen to get mine cheap, plan on running it with link next spring. Great support from t hem as well.

 

[hurricanecris24]

I searched everywhere bout the two couldn't find which is better. Okay so I think I'm going for the lc1

 

[hurricanecris24]

And I'm gonna be reflashing my ecu will the lc1 work fine for it

 

[1gdsmftw]

another good brand and most people shun it butttt glowshift makes a good wideband kit...and its got a lifetime replacement guarantee

 

[beachbum2185]

what makes the LC-1 better? just asking?

 

[1gdsmftw]

dont both kits use a bosch sensor?

 

[beachbum2185]

thats what i thought. i know someone had mentioned the LC-1 is more versatile, but if someone is using link, wouldn't you have every bit of info you would need with that, no matter what wideband is used?

 

[Talon tsi PR]

Idk about the lc1 but i've been using AEM for a long time now without any problems If that helps you

 

[beachbum2185]

i havent heard anything bad about the UEGO, which is why i got one.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

The outputs on the AEM are non programmable... And... They are not accurate with what they say is supposed to be outputted.

The logged value on your logger vs. the displayed AFR on the guage will never match.

In essence. Say at 2.5v the white papers for AEM says that the calculation for AFR base from voltage is Voltage x 2 + 10... 2.5v = 15.0AFR. If your at 15.0afr and it's outputting 2.3v to your ECU, your tune is going to be off by a little bit. 2.3v = 14.6afr


This is called a voltage offset. You can program this out with the LC-1 and other programmable units.

+1 for LC-1

 

[Yngvar]

LC-1 I really wish that's what I would have gotten

 

[hurricanecris24]

I'm getting the lc1 for 170 shipped brand new in box so I think its a deal

 

[beachbum2185]

The outputs on the AEM are non programmable... And... They are not accurate with what they say is supposed to be outputted.

The logged value on your logger vs. the displayed AFR on the guage will never match.

In essence. Say at 2.5v the white papers for AEM says that the calculation for AFR base from voltage is Voltage x 2 + 10... 2.5v = 15.0AFR. If your at 15.0afr and it's outputting 2.3v to your ECU, your tune is going to be off by a little bit. 2.3v = 14.6afr


This is called a voltage offset. You can program this out with the LC-1 and other programmable units.

+1 for LC-1

im still stock on my tsi, and i dont plan on making an insane amount of power, so i'll stick with the AEM. im sure if you're making a ton of power, that may have an effect right? a friend of mine is making good power with his 2g, but he has the AEM analog.

 

[hks-gst]

Get a NGK AFX with the NTK sensor and be done with it. Ballanger sells them for about $250 with the NTK upgrade.

 

[Lilbloody4]

NGK Powerdex AFX all the way, better/easier to setup and I just hate AEM $hit and LC1 is to complicated... There cheap, go big or go home.

 

[kawgomoo]

i have both the aem uego [external not gauge type] and a couple lc-1's

the lc-1 is just better all around it seems. better sensor life, less headaches. the aem has been a slight nightmare.

the problem with aem's gauge type is the connector is a big piece of shit. cut it off, solder the pins and alot of the flakeyness goes away. {as reported from TheBoz on aem forum}

havent used the ngk setup yet...but its been getting alot of press.


the lc-1 isnt hard to setup, but it is sort of a pain in the ass to mount. I dont know what the hell they were thinking. it has a 2' cord to the controller, and no way to mount the controller! which means you always end up with zip ties and a generally nasty looking install. Much less good ####ing luck mounting it somewhere that is out of the way and protected from the elements.

what makes the LC-1 better? just asking?

wouldnt say its "better" but it seems to be more consistent with its readings. Also the programable outputs are ####ing awesome! esp for those of use hacking stock ecu's.

for example the honda ecu can only read 3.8 volts. so any wideband reading 0-5v is damn near useless as half the scale is missing. lc1 to the rescue. Just rescale the output to read the same afr range over wahtever your available voltage monitoring range is. so 10-20afr from 0-3.8v poof. problem solved.

Lets say you are broke like me, and have an old lc1 but dont want to spend the coin on a gauge? fine. buy a voltmeter off ebay, scale the analog output of the lc1 accordingly and now you can read AFR on any volt meter or in this case a Panel Meter.

lc1 is versatile...i dont consider to be a highly accurate piece of data aquisition gear. yet for the purpose of tuning air fuel it seems to be fine.

my motto is afr tuning is for the longevity of the motor...a leaner motor might make a tad more power, but will make more heat. egt i feel is superior to afr for wot tuning
spark tuning is where all the power is made.

if you tune your car at 12to1 then at 11:1 you probably wont notice a huge change in power. i shoot for 11.5 so given all errors im safely under 12 and happily over 11. part throttle is all done by feel..who cares what the meter reads there