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Which / What Oil Should I Use? [Merged]

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Brad Penn 20-50w - The best stuff in the world. No more ticking, not even from a cold start!

Plus its less than $5 a quart through my supplier!
 
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Iv been thinking of switching from Mobile1 10w-30 syn. to Brad Penn oil, but my question is which wieght should I consider most for my setup?? I'm making around 400hp on a 16g , and I live in Eugene, Oregon area where it doesnt really get extremely cold, but it doesnt get very hot here either ... in the winters it can get down to the low 30's and in the spring & summer it hardly ever gets into the 90's and is still in the 60's in the mornings.... so I proabably should'nt use the 20w-50,.. its either 10w30 or 10w40 ????? I like to run the same wieght year round too.... so whats the pro's and con's between 30 and 40??? thanx
 
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Not trying at all to be rude.
But, Most of what could be asked about oil has more then likely been Covered there is 14 pages here...
 
ya, but nothing related to MY specific setup and climate... and there has been no discusion related to only Brad Penn 10w30-40 oil... some have suggested Brad Penn 20-50 and say its great but they all live in warmer climates and i'm not so sure that thick of oil would be best for me.... Just looking for suggestions on my particular setup, not somebody elses experiences, but thanx
 
I've researched this subject to death...even before I found my GST. From what I've found...I went with Amsoil Signature Series 10w30 for the engine and their gl4 approved 75w90 for the tranny.

Everyone seems to have their preference but for nearly every major one I saw positive and negative reviews...except for Amsoil. I don't think I saw a negative review anywhere I looked. The overall opinion is it is good stuff and I'm happy with it thus far ;)
 
Do not run a 20w50. As for what you should run, I would recommend 10w30 over 10w40 to help reduce high oil pressure.
What if the engine is never ran in cold climate? And what if the engine doesn't have high oil pressure issues? What if oil pressures are in the optimal range running 20w50 oil?

It's impossible to accurately recommend against any specific oil viscosity without know all of the other variables.
 
I use all amsoil products in my gsx. Amsoil.com will tell you all suggested fluids filters andmore for any vehicle. Check it out.

What if the engine is never ran in cold climate? And what if the engine doesn't have high oil pressure issues? What if oil pressures are in the optimal range running 20w50 oil?

It's impossible to accurately recommend against any specific oil viscosity without know all of the other variables.

I second your statements oil is something you can play with
 
Should You Use 20w-50 in the Summer if your in Hot Temps? I've used 10w-30 synthetic for the longest time but it seems like my motor is working a little bit better with 20w-50 (meaning not as much oil loss)

I'm in Phoenix so the temps here are usually 110+ daily or so, should I make the switch to 20w-50 in the summer and go with 10w-30 in the winter??
 
Thanks for the quick reply I really appreciate it.

Dyno: 464.4whp/464.4 lb-ft

Do I need to be making that much power to run this oil or no? I'm making like 155whp or so LOL I have minor mods on a N/T 420a

Just wanna be sure it's ok to run this oil.. Thanks so much!
 
Thanks for the quick reply I really appreciate it.

Dyno: 464.4whp/464.4 lb-ft

Do I need to be making that much power to run this oil or no? I'm making like 155whp or so LOL I have minor mods on a N/T 420a

Just wanna be sure it's ok to run this oil.. Thanks so much!

I would swap oil based on temp. As long as you keep using the same brand, you will be fine. Different brand oil companies put different additives in their oil. Some may not mix well with others. (read this somewhere but do not remember at the moment)

I do have to ask why the dyno numbers are identical....Did you just quote the numbers at 5252 rpms??? As in you did not rev the engine any higher? Just asking....
 
A stock 420A Dodge Neon motor can use 5w/30 all year long (unless it's been modded, then the thicker oils would be in store and do the weight switch for cooler weather driving).

Gee, if doing 10w/30 this long, seems that everything was doing okey....

That's what the oil sump (oil pan) is supposed to do - is to cool down the oil before oil heads back up into the block. Otherwise, if it can't cool down, it will destroy itself in due time by breaking down at a faster pace.

If you're concern on oil temps, get one of those fin doo dads that fits around the filter to dissipate the heat while the oil travels through the filter.

In all due actuality, oil has to be at a certain temp to properly lube and COOL the block while passing though the galleys. Antifreeze coolant can only do so much where it needs the help from the oil to do the cooling job complete.

-DSM
 
Oil should be at 200+ degrees to do it's job. Move to a thicker oil may hurt you more then help you. Since 90% of engine wear happens at start up from lack of lubrication at start up a thicker oil will take longer to get to your parts. Good rule of thumb is 10psi per 1000x rpm. So play around with your oil til you find one that meets the 10 per 1000x area (7k =70psi). Make sure you check this at oil operating temp. Just because the water is at 200 degrees doesn't mean the oil is.
 
Oil should be at 200+ degrees to do it's job. Move to a thicker oil may hurt you more then help you. Since 90% of engine wear happens at start up from lack of lubrication at start up a thicker oil will take longer to get to your parts. Good rule of thumb is 10psi per 1000x rpm. So play around with your oil til you find one that meets the 10 per 1000x area (7k =70psi). Make sure you check this at oil operating temp. Just because the water is at 200 degrees doesn't mean the oil is.

Hey the car isn't running any boost/ forced induction at the moment the mods are just:

1) intake
2) headers full exhaust no cat
3) msd ignition + wires
4) pulley

With that being said, and me being in 100+ degree weather daily. Do you think since I was fine with 10w-30 for a while that 10w-40 may be better since over time my motor got slightly more used? (140k miles )
 
Hey the car isn't running any boost/ forced induction at the moment the mods are just:

1) intake
2) headers full exhaust no cat
3) msd ignition + wires
4) pulley

With that being said, and me being in 100+ degree weather daily. Do you think since I was fine with 10w-30 for a while that 10w-40 may be better since over time my motor got slightly more used? (140k miles )

Then I'd stay with what ever the manufacture recommends for the region.
Check your owners manual.

I'm running 35 lbs of boost with 10W-30, keep using full synthetic and a good filter you'll be fine. :thumb:
 
Im still confused why so many on this site run such a high winter grade? Having a higher number will only hurt your motor.

Thank you.... and it doesn't matter if its boosted or not. 10psi of oil pressure per 1000x is a general rule.
 
usually when you build an engine you make the clearances between bearings and journals smaller/bigger to what oil you are going to use.. cold 10w-50 will not fit through clearances made for 5w-30. and 5w-30 in an engine with clearances for 10w-50 wont do so well either.. if you havent touched your engine as far as rebuilding or you have and the clearances are bigger than normal.. stick with the thinner oil. its a waste to use that thick oil when not needed and could be harmful
 
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