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Which/What gauges should I get? [Merged 12-6]

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Boost
Wideband
Electric FUEL Pressure

These are vital and key componenets that the stock instrument panel nor the logger can read.
 
I have an autometer carbon fiber boost gauge and am looking at getting 2 more to fit my triple pillar. I've already decided on an egt (most likely carbon fiber also, it says it comes with a type k probe and I'm wondering if that's any good). My real question is what should my 3rd gauge be, oil pressure or oil temp? Thanks in advance.
 
I have autometer carbon fiber boost and oil pressure gauges and was wondering if I should fill the third spot with a matching egt gauge. I'm wondering if the carbon fiber egt is any good, it says it comes with a type k probe (and I remember hearing somewhere that this is like the only good probe autometer has) or should I get a TRE probe. Whats the difference and where can I get a TRE probe if I need one? Thanks in advance.
 
Hey, can anbody tell me the difference between short sweep electric gauges and full sweep electric gauges? I am looking at the short sweep electric oil pressure gauge. Is this the gauge where no oil is coming in the cabin? Thanks
 
Hey, can anbody tell me the difference between short sweep electric gauges and full sweep electric gauges? I am looking into getting a short sweep electric oil pressure gauge and was wondering if this was the gauge that would not run oil into the cabin. Also, can i just run my aftermarket gauge into the same spot as the stock oil pressure gauge? Thanks
 
Yea, electric gauges use a sender. You won't be running hot oil near your face, don't worry. The only difference between short sweep and full sweep is how they look. Theres no major difference except for the fact that on one the needle will move than the other. You can't tap into the same spot as the stock oil pressure or boost gauges because where they are tapped into, they aren't accurate at all. That's the whole point of adding aftermarket gauges (well, in this case anyway because the stock boost, oil pressure, and coolant temp. gauges are very reliable). I hope this helps.
 
I guess I can contribute... a couple years ago I had the same problems in deciding on gauges..but what I first decided was what direction I wanted to go with on my car... This was when I owned the 1993 Ford Probe GT (still do) and it was in development stages...at that time it also had a 50-shot Dry kit .. its also a ATX (automatic)

The very first gauge I got was a Automatic Transmission Temp Gauge and I added a Hayden Transaxle cooler.. I suggest this for ANY automatic transmission car.. and when Karen and I purchased the 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GT this was the very first thing I did to the car.. this is not a modded car ...this is her daily driver... nothing special I just wanted the extra protection for both my car and hers...its very important ...and even useful at the track

Then I chose an Oil PSI gauge ... Fords are nutorious for their electric gauges being junk and this added to my ability to see if there was a problem in the motor

The A/F was mostly to make sure I was 2 bars rich before I sprayed ... but also I would suggest this gauge if you are going to go with more of a "show" setup

The Water Temp Gauge was basically a filler...but after my indiglo install it seemed like all the stock gauges where a bit sticky ...hence the VERY small Tach ...

At the time I also had the Nitrous PSI gauge on the bottle...and have recently added a Fuel Pressure gauge under the hood attached to the Aeromotive FPR ...makes for much easier adjustments at Test and Tune nights ...

Now sure maybe this answers questions for some NT and ATX guys...my Probe is by far a Race car ... its a show car...lives in the garage and only comes out for shows or when Karen decides she wants to race it ...rather fun to watch :)

but with the TSi I plan on having a boost, EGT, oil PSI/or warning light (handy if you dont wanna clutter with gauges) pocketlogger, and maybe a digital a/f (POSSIBLY) depending on how my stock gauges perform I might add backups...but thats in the event of extreme circumstances...

I was actually interested in someone suggesting the Oil Temp Gauge... I mean it would be better than having 2 Water Temp if you dont trust the stocker..and it could tell you whats going on in there... would be super easy to plumb with a aftermarket cooler..maybe Ill consider that...anyone else considered this?

All Autometer btw ...heres a pic

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go on the classifieds and find cheaper used gauges-
-BOOST- #1
-Wideband o2 gauge
-EGT
-OIL pressure
-coolant temp
and you can find a good a-pillar, and a cluster bezel pretty easy/cheap- craigslist, and the classifieds are a good place to shop!
 
kmoore said:
Thanks a lot you cleared a lot of things up for me. But, where would you tap into for an aftermarket oil pressure gauge? Thanks again


Easiest way is find the oil cooler ...and locate the stock sending unit on that ... it will look like a egg but with a flat bottom... Im sure you can find a pic... well actually come to think of it...I know that if you buy a autometer electric oil psi gauge the senders look almost exactly alike... personally I would just disconnect your old sender...trash it... wire tie the sending wires ..and run your new sender into the same hole..utalizing new wire to your aftermarket gauge...maybe 15 min top...running the wire is mostly the time consuming
 
kmoore said:
Hey, can anbody tell me the difference between short sweep electric gauges and full sweep electric gauges? I am looking into getting a short sweep electric oil pressure gauge and was wondering if this was the gauge that would not run oil into the cabin. Also, can i just run my aftermarket gauge into the same spot as the stock oil pressure gauge? Thanks

to elaborate from my previous thread ... short sweep is the style most electric gauges come in .. I believe the total needle sweep is 90 degrees ... the full sweep are just the same gauge (a bit more pricey) with a more "race" 270 degree sweep ... the electric WILL NOT send oil into your cabin... it utalizes a sender and a sender wire supplied by you... attached with a ring terminal to the top of the sender... 14 ga wire works just fine... I find it helpful to use color wire when establishing differences between your sender wires and or powers/grounds ... for example oil psi I use yellow... temps I use blue... but any wire will do ...

for beginners.. if you are plumbing into coolant or fluid lines with a T fitting and barbs...be sure to attach a wire from the brass T fitting body (use a hose clamp...works great) to ground ... or the gauge will not function properly
 
Thanks for all the replies. You have covered a lot of things up for me. I now know how to install both boost and oil pressure now. But, i have a question about installing an egt gauge. I found this write-up on vfaq.com and i don't know if i should listen to this guy?
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html
(Sorry, i thought that the link would bring you right to it- the post is under gauges at the top and then it is the second one down)Can you really install this gauge by drilling a hole in the exhaust manifold and not take it off the manifold?! Have you guys drilled a hole and not taken off your exhaust manifold? Also, is installing all of these gauges something that i can do or should i have somebody do it for me? Thanks again
 
I got boost/vac,egt and in car fuel pressure .While my oil pressure factory doesn't have numbers you can see thats you have in fact oil pressure so don't see why need exact numbers for it.
Coolant gauge is a bit vague being in middle but once it climbs up you pretty much need to shut car off fast anyway.
I do have scan stuff also to get exact readouts for some things like coolant temp and will likley have scanmaster in my car at all times if can get it to work .So far it won't.May not work with my 95 ecu.
I am also planning on wideband soon may get autometer that matches the phantom gauges or may get plx300 with guage option not sure how close their gauge matches ot a phantom guage.

Also wondering about if should use my auotmeter egt probe.Think heard if they are not sheathed they can fall apart and wreck your turbo. The tre is I think sheathed in inconel does that mean the tip is sheathed hard to tell in picture and is it true the autometer one isn't?
I can't get tre to send me it seeing as live in canada but think found same thing on ebay with 90 degree bend think it would still work. My gt manifold is predrilled and tapped for the egt probe.bonus!
In car fuel pressure seems a useful thing.My guage on my afpr only shows it at idle.Its nice to know you have no fuel problems at wot and that your pump is in fact working.
 
AL92 said:
Also wondering about if should use my auotmeter egt probe.Think heard if they are not sheathed they can fall apart and wreck your turbo. The tre is I think sheathed in inconel does that mean the tip is sheathed hard to tell in picture and is it true the autometer one isn't?
Are you kidding me!?OMG I definately don't want that to happen. Can anybody tell me if i could get the autometer gauge with the tre probe and it still work together? Also WHERE do you get these tre probes? I can't find them anywhere
 
The tre sensor works with autometer is like 45 bucks.i would order from them but they don't seem to ship to canada. I found similar one on ebay think order that one.

I am pretty sure my autometer probe is not sheathed.
 
Siral3x said:
I would say it does matter! Don't forget AFR, EGT becomes important when you crank up the boost a lot..latter on.
If a college student on budget get BOOST, AFR...then EGT.



A/F ration gauges are crap. I have one and all it does is blink blink and cause random conversations about blinking lights. A wide band 02 sensor gauge is usefull but not just an a/f gauge. To the original poster, the popular gauges to go with are boost/oil pressure/egt/oil temp/wideband o2

:beatentodeath:

:D
 
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