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Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

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Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
8,831
4,642
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.
 
gsxebelt said:
The crank walk wasn't fixed... it is a new/used engine with about 25K miles on it. I haven't got the car back yet but the mechanic said that turbo was drivable, but it was going to fail sooner then later. it was the bolt-on elbow that was loose. ( i wasn't sure what to call it, Ive had the car for not even a year yet and still getting adjusted to turbos.)

I just want my car to be faster on the street, but i don't plan on buying a bunch of mods for the engine. Maybe the next bigger turbo other then stock would be right. and do i need to buy anything else for the engine if i bought the next bigger turbo? and i do plan on just running stock boost. basically i would like something reasonably priced that is stronger then stock, yet bolt-on without major support parts. I hope this helps and makes sense.

Glad to hear that you didn't rebuild the crankwalked motor :rocks:

ALL turbos die sooner or later. The average life expectancy of the stock turbo is about 80,000 miles. Your mechanic saying you need to get a new turbo cause the bolt-on elbow was loose - DOES NOT MAKE ANY SENSE. If the elbow is loose, tighten it. That's not a reason to replace a working turbo.

Check out the Big T28 turbo that I linked above.

Forced Performance also sells 17psi T25/T28 actuators. The actuator upgrades the factory 11psi to 17psi. Here's the link for more info http://linux.forcedperformance.net/...&Product_Code=WAT28DSM17psi&Category_Code=DSM

The Big T28 is a bolt on turbo, you don't need anything else to make it work. If you want to push the limits you can get boost controller, boost gauge, EGT gauge, fuel pump, injectors, exhaust system etc, but - you don't need any of these when you INSTALL the turbo.
 
I just wanted to say again, I'm not sure what it was called on the turbo, however i do know that it was a part that should not have been loose. and it had no bolts, i think it was a shaft of some sort. Anyways, i ended up doing some more research and bought an MHI Small 16G from slowboysracing.com. it seemed anyways that it was a decent turbo and a good price, if anyone has anything they can tell me about the turbo then i would like to hear it, anyways thanks for all your help everyone. :thumb:
 
Here is what I can tell you: You bought the wrong turbo! I mean yeah it's a good turbo, but to bolt it onto your car, you got to buy a bunch of parts (also sold as a kit). I don't recall what they charge for the kit.

Well it depends on what kind of an intake and stuff you have i guess to. I am reffering to putting a 16G on a 2G car. Not taking into account the 6 bolt swap and not knowing if that has an impact on this situation.

But from a 2G perspective, the T-28 that was recomended to you is the bolt-on solution, requiring no extra parts to bolt right onto the car. That's why he told you to look at it.

Another thing: for the price of a small 16G, you could have gotten the EVO3 Big 16G turbo. It pushes more air!

Nice to hear you got a new turbo, though.

In the future, it pays to:

1. Search the boards: this question has been posted so many times, it's unreal! Almost all of us have asked it, more then once.

2. Listen to the advice you are given, and ask questions, and listen again to the answers.

Good luck with the new turbo, and your DSM.

I hope your mechanic isn't full of shit also (many, many of them are, did you know that automotive repair is literally the most dishonest business in the US? Sad but true).

Eventually all who own a DSM will end up either learning to fix it themselves, are shelling out thousands! Or selling the car :barf:
 
On the 17psi actuators - Info from FP website.
"The most common problem among stock T25 cars is flapper blow open in the upper RPM range. Using this heavier spung actuator helps prevent unwanted flapper opening under high boost situations while at the same time allowing for stable 17psi pressure setting when needed for daily use."

Gsxebelt - About the 16G turbo, you "could" have gone with the EVOIII 16G turbo instead, and now you need an install kit, which will be about $150-$200. Your best bet would have been the T28 turbo :sneaky: , thats why I gave you all those links :mad: Anyways, have fun with your new turbo :thumb:
 
Your new turbo will still a drastic improvement over your stock. Look into porting down the road. If not sell it and cut your losses. Either way its a win win situation for you.
 
mitdrx said:
Your new turbo will still a drastic improvement over your stock. Look into porting down the road. If not sell it and cut your losses. Either way its a win win situation for you.

Yes, AFTER you spend MORE MONEY on bigger injectors, a bigger fuel pump, and fuel control, it sure will be a drastic improvement!

Until then, it will spool slower then what you are used to, and you will NOT be able to boost (safely) any higher then 10 lbs. :cool:
 
Hey guys,
Trying to figure out which turbo I want to end up with, but it seems like everyone's opinions about lag and top end power are either completely biased or at least very subjective. Therefore, choosing based on these descriptions seems stupid, and I dont know anyone with a DSM. My question is is there anyone in the greater CT area (CT, MA, NJ, lower NY) that can give me a ride in their car with a maxed out turbo. I dont want to see what a huge turbo can do with no supporting mods, I know its not pretty. I would like to experience a tuned and well thought out layout with somewhere between 300 and 400 whp. Turbos I NEED to test: evo3b16g, 20g, 50 trim, garrett t3/t4. Im not lookin to drive anyones car, just go for a ride and see how quick/streetable these setups are. Any CT DSMers let me know who you are, even if you cant give me a ride. I live right on the turnpike and maybe we can meet up sometime.

Thanks a ton,
Steve Parry
 
Mods, can you maybe move this post to NE DSM or should I just make another post there? I realize that would probably be a better place for this,

Thanks,
Steve Parry
 
Ok I am in the process of finishing up my 2.4. I am using paughter rods and wiseco pistons. The entire motor is getting built. The head is going to be built up also with ported intake mani. I currently have a new PTE 50 trim but i have heard that the 2.4 will over run it up top. The shop and people that I am working with have suggested that I run a t70. I have looked around on here and been reading posts, but I wanted some personal comments.
Help me decide guys :|
 
Excellent rod+piston choice IMO. Definately look into a SMIM to optimize your top end flow, just a port job on a stock manifold is no bueno. With that 2.4L setup I would look into a PTE SCM61. With the low end TQ of the 2.4L you'll be good until boost kicks in the 56 trim and then it is GO time. The turbo flows very well and is a good bit cheaper then the GT35R but the flow charts should be similar. If you want a nice ball bearing turbo then look into the SBR GT14. It has the 56 trim compressor wheel with the ball bearing GT40 turbine wheel. Should be good for 600HP.
 
VRMAN said:
Excellent rod+piston choice IMO. Definately look into a SMIM to optimize your top end flow, just a port job on a stock manifold is no bueno. With that 2.4L setup I would look into a PTE SCM61. With the low end TQ of the 2.4L you'll be good until boost kicks in the 56 trim and then it is GO time. The turbo flows very well and is a good bit cheaper then the GT35R but the flow charts should be similar. If you want a nice ball bearing turbo then look into the SBR GT14. It has the 56 trim compressor wheel with the ball bearing GT40 turbine wheel. Should be good for 600HP.
second vote for the scm61 as thats what i have on my 2.4 :cool:
 
Power goals?

That is THE most important thing when it comes to turbo sizing isn't it? The SCM61 seems like a nice chouce but I would imagine you would be limiting yourself with the small hotside. I haven't seen many 550+whp dyno sheets for any of the SCM stuff. When mine is complete, I will hold with the scm61 briefly to see what it does. I would ideally like to run a t4/t67 but i may opt to try the 61 with a .68 t4 hotside first. The hotside only costs $185 but it should allow the turbo to support 600+whp. The t70 is too big for the rest of your set up. The 67 should support 700whp.
 
peregrine said:
second vote for the scm61 as thats what i have on my 2.4 :cool:

How does your turbo spool up? At what point through the gears? I have the option to swap the 5o trim for an externally gated 54 trim. I have read on this forum that the 50 trim spools up at like 2,800 rpm. I will also be using a maft with the blow through setup from dejon. Keep the pointers coming and the suggestions that people have.
 
GSX4LIFE said:
I would recommend 2 different combos, depending on what your goals are.

#1) GT40 56trim in TO4S cover with P-trim in .58 a/r T-4 housing. (600whp+ potential)

#2) T67 in TO4S with P-trim in .58 a/r T-4 housing. (700whp+ potential)


#2) T67 in TO4S with P-trim in .58 a/r T-4 housing. (700whp+ potential) :thumb: my pick...
 
yangtech said:
#2) T67 in TO4S with P-trim in .58 a/r T-4 housing. (700whp+ potential) :thumb: my pick...

Why is this your pick? I have been told from a few to try a t70 with a .83 a/r divided exhaust housing. Any ideas???
 
spoolin92AWd said:
Why is this your pick? I have been told from a few to try a t70 with a .83 a/r divided exhaust housing. Any ideas???

Unless you are trying to make 750-800 awhp you don't need the extra weight of the T70 compressor. Its only going to give you more lag. Even with the t67 you are looking at full boost over 5k, even on the 2.4. No need to increase the boost threshhold if the 67 will meet your power goals.
 
Well my goal is to make this car a car that can be driven on the street as well as the track. I have figured somewhere between 500-600hp. I am really looking for something that spools up in the early 4,000 rpm range. I went with the 2.4 because it didn't cost that much more and I wanted to be able to spool that bigger turbo over the 2.0's a little faster. I have some buddies that have nice setups, but they don't really fall into the same boat being a 2.0. I haven't had the chance to mess with a lot of different turbo set ups. The turbo will be going on a fully built motor and will definitely getting broken into first.
 
If your goal is between 500-600 then I would recommend the GT40 56trim with the rest of the setup I mentioned. Your in Philadelphia, thats where I came from. Try talking to RDRKT. He uses a 2.4 and a GT40 turbo. He dynoed 560awhp and spools really quickly.
 
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