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2G Which clutch should i get?

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Junzu

Proven Member
145
19
Aug 21, 2021
California
Slipping in 4th, time to replace before it gets worse!

Stock 2G GS-T, but like every starry-eyed dsmer I have higher HP goals in the future (long term project) of up to 300, no more than that


Want to get a ACT 2100 since I can just throw in an upgraded clutch while I'm there and not do it twice, but was told by another mechanic that it's better to get OEM because getting that kind of HP will take lots of time and money, and in that time frame my clutch wouldn't last that long.


What do you think? Please give me your input! Also, flywheel recommendations? Do I really even need a lightweight flywheel... I'm not racing or tracking it. Lol. Also going with street disk. Solid or sprung?
 
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The best flywheel is the stock one if you can find one in good condition. If you are going with a used flywheel (I suggest to anybody that even re-uses a flywheel) to have it magnafluxed at a machine shop to check for cracks that you cant see with your eyes that could cause catastrophic damage should it come apart from a crack, as far as the pressure plate and disc, I prefer the South Bend Clutch brand, they use a stock pressure plate and modify it for more pressure, that means that it will fit like stock vs problems with fitment, and as far as quality they seem to have the experience and stand behind their products, you can send the disk back to them to have them re-lined in some cases even, they have been in business for a long time and many top level guys trust them.
 
With that power goal in mind a ACT 2100 with street disc would work great. Something like a competition clutch stage 2 would also but EVERY single one of those we have ever put in required shimming the pivot ball. South bend makes good stuff too. Buddy runs a act 2600 pressure plate with one of there full face disc's with good results.
 
Do not believe folks that tell you to get the biggest baddest clutch. I recommend Street disk, sprung. Stock flywheel. Likely your existing flywheel can be machined. No puck disks, no solid hubs. I've had them all. My favorite is southbend. They are not cheap.
 
With that power goal in mind a ACT 2100 with street disc would work great. Something like a competition clutch stage 2 would also but EVERY single one of those we have ever put in required shimming the pivot ball. South bend makes good stuff too. Buddy runs a act 2600 pressure plate with one of there full face disc's with good results.
Thanks
 
Do not believe folks that tell you to get the biggest baddest clutch. I recommend Street disk, sprung. Stock flywheel. Likely your existing flywheel can be machined. No puck disks, no solid hubs. I've had them all. My favorite is southbend. They are not cheap.
Thanks. What do you think about what the other guy mentioned in my post about getting OEM because it'll take lots of time to get HP?
They think it's buying parts I don't need but but seem to agree with both sides of this - doing it right once vs. Not really needing it for a while since it takes a while to build that power. Lol
 
Thanks. What do you think about what the other guy mentioned in my post about getting OEM because it'll take lots of time to get HP?
They think it's buying parts I don't need but but seem to agree with both sides of this - doing it right once vs. Not really needing it for a while since it takes a while to build that power. Lol
I would not put a stock clutch in it. I see no need to hold off on a better clutch. A well designed streetable clutch is not hard on any components and the only disadvantage I see is cost.
 
I would not put a stock clutch in it. I see no need to hold off on a better clutch. A well designed streetable clutch is not hard on any components and the only disadvantage I see is cost.
Great, thank you! I've heard lots of great things about ACT, I used to hear about it all over the place. Going to go with the ACT 2100 and wanted to replace flywheel since it's a long term project for peace of mind, but probably no reason it can't be machined? Planning on replacing some seals while in there and ordering a pivot ball just in case mine is scuffed up and I don't have to wait days for it to come in... also heard not to use the provided junk throwout bearing that comes in ACTs kits... do I need a new fork for any reason?
 
If it's high mileage new fork and pivot is probably a good idea. Oem throw out is plastic lined. Nothing wrong with non oem bearings as bearings go buy since our bellhousings are aluminum the non lined aftermarket throw out bearings tend to chew up the shaft it rides on.
 
I went with a South Bend SS-TZ and am at maybe 280-300hp (according to ECMlink). It is a harder pedal but definitely streetable. Could sit in stop and go for an hour or two and not mind. I had a stock style Napa clutch in there early on at the same power level. It did alright. Some slight slipping in the high RPM range. Maybe it would have gotten worse with time. Don't know cause I went to the South Bend soon after.

Edit: if you have everything apart, I would get a new pivot ball, fork, and throw out bearing.
 
2100 with street disc or 2100 pressure plate with a SBC disk. Keep it simple.
 
Thanks. What do you think about what the other guy mentioned in my post about getting OEM because it'll take lots of time to get HP?
They think it's buying parts I don't need but but seem to agree with both sides of this - doing it right once vs. Not really needing it for a while since it takes a while to build that power. Lol
That guy has no clue about these cars or their potential If you plan on upgrading to 300hp range, you def need to upgrade the clutch
 
Contacted tim a few times in person at the shootout, and finally got the south bend ss tz/b disk with a act flywheel. Havent got a chance to drive the car yet but it should hold up plenty for my goals I cant wait to break in the clutch and new built engine. Street feel and able to hold the hp, and torque ill be using.
 
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