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Which clutch [Merged 3-9] what clutch best

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rayden

20+ Year Contributor
137
0
Apr 15, 2002
ok i am going to get a new clutch for my car. i was wandering which one i should go with. i was thinking of the act 2100. Dont think i want the 2600 because it is a daily driven car and will only go to the track a couple times a year. if there are some other brands you all would suggest let me know. i want a good streetable clutch for a cheap budget.
 
:cool: Mcleod sintered iron on a SSG flywheel.... :thumb:

It does'nt chatter when granny driven on the street and it did'nt take long or radical changes in driving habits to get used to the less stored fly energy at low rpm...

Just slip the clutch a touch more at lower throttle.....


If you do go spec get the stage 3.

My mcloed is closer to the stage 5 but with a sprung hub...
 
Hey I ran a fidanza flywheel with a ACT 2100 street disk..for awhile....then the disk flew apart..so then I got a 6 puck and even with that street driving was still ok. I dont see why everybody says they're so hard to drive with a puck style clutch I didnt have any problems and boy oh boy it really grabbed. But personally even though I like ACT i would recommend the fidanza with the Spec clutch equivilent or greater than a 2100 ACT for bigger is usually better and it doesn't hurt also just in case you decide to keep modding after 300+hp. Sam :thumb:
 
I have driven puck cars...

The full face feramic and sintered are alot more progressive in engagement but can handle the same or more peak HP..

It slips smooth and predictable w/o fading when hot etc....

I am blown away by this clutch and have had a few different ones in this car and installed many in other ppls cars.. It :rocks:
 
Thanks for the help. I've already purchased my clutch and flywheel... I went ACT all the way after calling a couple of my DSM friends and talking to them. I appreciate everyones help.
 
iv been looking at some on ebay but i donno if theres a difference between 2wd or awd? is there a difference? also the year what year should i be watching out for 90-94? or can i go higher?
thanks guys
B :)
 
the clutch kits are all the same over the year spans. No difference in FWD and AWD. Now if you wanted a flywheel to go with it.. THEN you need to be specific about that.
 
The type of clutch also depends on mods you have. If you want to go aggresive, but driveable. Try an ACT 2100 pressure plate with a 6 puck street disc. Or if you have mods too strong for the 2100, then go with the 2600. Its all up to you & depends on the mods. don't want to get a near stock clutch if you're pushing like 400whp or something. List some of your mods & maybe some upcoming mods & we can all help you decide on the clutch.

:talon:
 
Im getting rid of my ACT 2600, its a pain in the ass cuz I like to race which is what its good for but daily driving ouch!!! Im going with Centerforce Dual Friction, 2500lb clamping force but retains OEM pedal pressure which is perfect for me. Hope this helps :thumb:
 
Just make sure that you get a metal braded Clutch line. It will relieve some of the pressure and make whatever you get a little bit easier to drive. I have a 2100 with the line and I cant really feel a difference between the 2100 and the stock clutch.
 
is an act2600 clutch and lightweight flywheel to much on a stock tranny?, my clutch is going, for a while now its hard to shift, if i shift to fast it grinds and if i try to launch fast and shift fast it slips KY jelly LOL
 
DSMcrazy3 said:
Grinding when shifting fast usually has to do with the transmission. Most cases the synchronizer for whichever gear is going out.
half of the time the fingers on the clutch wear...and makes shifting hard. or the gear fluid has never been changed. but yes...half of the other time it is synchros.

but a 2600 clutch should be enough..just dont beat the hell out of it and launch everywhere because your clutch can "handle it".
and the flywheel will be a nice addition and your motor will rev freely and a bit quicker. good luck man. :thumb:
 
Not to jack the thread butttt.... How much power handling difference is there between the 2100 and the 2600? How much would be an ideal amount of power for the 2100 and then the 2600?


Also I have heard that the 2600 makes the engine a little more subseptable to crank walk. Has anyone else heard this theory/rumor?
 
some people say that a stronger clutch will do so. i don't think it has been proven but that's why, on all my cars, i remove the clutch safety swith as a pre caution :thumb:
 
I'm in a bit of a tough spot here. I need a new clutch, my mechanic wants to charge me 7.1 hrs @ $78/hour to install it, and they add a surcharge to any parts they purchase. Bottom line, $840+tax for a stock clutch installed, or $1100+tax for a Kevlar stage II clutch installed.

I know I could buy the clutch kit myself for cheaper than they've quoted (even though they never actually told me the price of the parts). I really don't want to pay $550 for labor, but I can't do this myself and I need the car to get to and from work monday to friday.

I've been looking at ACT 2100 and Centerforce Stage I clutches, as well as stock. Of these two, which is better and why? My mechanic told me centerforce stage I won't be any different than stock, even though the description says 30% greater force. Is this true? I've found a centerforce stage I clutch kit (w/o throwout bearing) for $230. Should I put in a lightened flywheel when I do all this?

My car is a stock 1996 GST with 48k miles (48k miles, no sh!t I shouldn't need a new clutch!). I plan on doing performance upgrades in a year and a half to two years when I can afford to buy a daily driver and keep this car in the garage.

Thanks in advance.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=16364&cat=0&page=1
 
Well If you are planning on doing some mods to your car in the future you might aswhile and go ahead and get an aftermarket clutch becuase the stock clutch can hold any extra power that you put to it. I just installed the Slow Boy Racing 3500 Clutch two weeks ago and thier Flywheel I like them. It all depends on what you want but save yourself money and time and knock out those two items at the same time. If you stick with the stock flywheel you have to get it machined which is like 30 dollars. As for what to go with pick something that will go with what you are doing and where you live.

http://dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201936

There are all kinds of Clutches you can get when it comes down to it, its up to you.



:dsm:
 
I personally use the Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch and I love it to death. It's 2500 lbs. clamping force while retaining OEM pedal pressure. My car is my daily driver and this clutch is easy on my feet. Im very sure that this clutch will do you very well for what you want.
 
I bought my ACT 2100 from Road Race Engineering a month or two ago along with a stainless clutch line. It feels about the same as my worn stock clutch did and grabs hard.

As far as the installation, I had to pay someone also, because I don't have the time or space to do something major like pulling the clutch. $550 seems kinda steep to me for a clutch change. I paid $450 from the dealer of all places...

As far as which is better? I think considering your car is stock, either would be just as good. I would get the least expensive.
 
Holy Crap, that is some EXPENSIVE LABOUR! I'd rather go through the dealer.
As everyone stated, it really depends what type of power your planning on pushing. if your goals are 300-400, I would look at the SBR 3500 + fidanza flywheel. Alot of people are using this combo with no ill effects. Though I hear people stalling on the light flywheel, but it's never happened to me :thumb:
 
It looks like stock clutch is the choice. :sosad: :notgood:

Money IS an issue: stock clutch ($200), flywheel resurfacing ($70) and main seal set ($40) plus the low low price of $514 for labor (it's a small shop that I've taken both my family's cars to for over a year now) after negotiating...equals one hell of an expensive clutch job ($881, incl tax and seals). Too bad I don't have much choice. I would have ordered a centerforce stage 1, but couldn't get overnight shipping. I know it's not much of an upgrade, but it's better than stock, not much more expensive, and I won't be doing major upgrades for another couple years.

I might try calling the dealer.....this sucks.


UPDATE:

I called the local mitsu dealer: $230 for clutch kit, $575 labor, and for seals, add $85. HA HA. This is getting comical.
 
someguyjon said:
It looks like stock clutch is the choice. :sosad: :notgood:

Money IS an issue: stock clutch ($200), flywheel resurfacing ($70) and main seal set ($40) plus the low low price of $514 for labor (it's a small shop that I've taken both my family's cars to for over a year now) after negotiating...equals one hell of an expensive clutch job ($881, incl tax and seals). Too bad I don't have much choice. I would have ordered a centerforce stage 1, but couldn't get overnight shipping. I know it's not much of an upgrade, but it's better than stock, not much more expensive, and I won't be doing major upgrades for another couple years.

I might try calling the dealer.....this sucks.
does that price include K Y jelly? ha,ha
 
someguyjon said:
It looks like stock clutch is the choice. :sosad: :notgood:

Money IS an issue: stock clutch ($200), flywheel resurfacing ($70) and main seal set ($40) plus the low low price of $514 for labor (it's a small shop that I've taken both my family's cars to for over a year now) after negotiating...equals one hell of an expensive clutch job ($881, incl tax and seals). Too bad I don't have much choice. I would have ordered a centerforce stage 1, but couldn't get overnight shipping. I know it's not much of an upgrade, but it's better than stock, not much more expensive, and I won't be doing major upgrades for another couple years.

I might try calling the dealer.....this sucks.


UPDATE:

I called the local mitsu dealer: $230 for clutch kit, $575 labor, and for seals, add $85. HA HA. This is getting comical.


Man.. I know Cary is a small town (used to live in N.C. myself) so maybe that's why you're gettin ripped off? If your car's driveable, it might be worth it to drive to a bigger city like Durham or Raleigh to find a cheaper price for the install. Use the extra money you should be saving on labor to get a good clutch.
 
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