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Where to put my boost leak tester and how to use it

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dustin_8907

15+ Year Contributor
83
0
May 7, 2008
Ripley, West Virginia
Where do I put my boost leak tester and how do you use it? How do you know if you have a leak?
 
Put it on your turbo inlet, and test ~5psi above your desired boost level, and use soapy water and spray all boost/vacuum references. If theirs a leak, the soapy water will tell you :)
 
yea just take off your intake pipe and mount the tester in place and once it builds boost you should start to hear leaks, or using soapy water is the most for sure way of finding exactly where any leaks are
 
This is what kills me. No one EVER mentions that you need to MOVE your timing to a certain point to do a PROPER test. If you don't the compressed air is going to go out an open exhaust valve and you'll be forever clueless and that's why there's alot of people who can't find there boost leaks.

That AND the fact that when people do mention the timing, it always switches back & forth, between 30 degrees before top dead center, and 40 degrees After TDC. What's up with that? :confused:
 
Last edited:
I always thought this to be true as well. One exhaust valve MUST be open at some point of time while the intake valve is not shut all the way. Rendering the boost leak test impossible to do. I'm about to do a leak test today and would really like to know if you need to have a particular timing* on the crank?
 
I always thought this to be true as well. One exhaust valve MUST be open at some point of time while the intake valve is not shut all the way. Rendering the boost leak test impossible to do. I'm about to do a leak test today and would really like to know if you need to have a particular timing* on the crank?

I'm still confused myself really. I think it's actually between 2 points, but people choose there own degree marks and mark them on the pulley using the lower timing cover marks as a reference.

Heres my thread asking about it:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/445526-does-timing-matter-blt.html
 
You know, if my boost leak test was failing due to an open exhaust valve I would just quick bump the starter and try again. IMO it's a lot quicker than shooting for a guesstimate on a timing mark that is near impossible to see.

Of course you should PROBABLY pull the engine fuse if you do this so you don't risk damage to your turbo/motor by accidentally starting it. A "bump" shouldn't start it but crazier things have happened.
 
I've NEVER done a boost leak test where the air just went right out the exhaust, doesn't happen.

It used to happen a lot because somebody got it in their head to tell people to test while at TDC and that incorrect information became "common" knowledge WRT what people call boost leak testing.

You can't imagine how hard it is to change something once a group starts believing something is a fact without ever thinking about it.

The 30 vs 40 discussion is an example. When I proposed 30 degrees, I explained why and how it wasn't critical. People quote the number but forget the reason.
 
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