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where is this oil leak from you think? (timing)

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eclipse012

15+ Year Contributor
183
10
Apr 17, 2008
canada, AB, Canada
In the middle of my timing belt job. I decided to call it quits for the day and will keep going tomorrow on replacing my timing belt & parts. Just thought someone will like to guess on where the leaking oil is coming from. My guess is either the crankshaft seal or the oil pump sprocket seal. I'm leaning towards the oil pump sprocket seal. Here's the pics... last pic is my lower timing cover. You can see the oil was pooling up in the bottom of the case a bit.

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LOL I thought that for a second when I looked at it earlier but then I figured maybe its seeping from the oil sprocket seal. My father guessed the oil pan as well. I just hope its not, that will not be fun.

Anyone else want to put in their opinion?
 
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The car has just over 40,000 original miles :sneaky: so I'm guessing the timing belt & seals both have the same. I have all the oem parts I pre-ordered already and have. The only thing I didn't order was a harmonic damper which when I took it off I could pop the inner part out of the outer. Debating on buying another oem or going aftermarket now. Satan wants 313.00 for a new oem harmonic damper here in Canada :barf:
 
40k on a 20 plus year old motor. The teflon on the seals are getting dry.
While you got it apart, do the front main crank seal.
You're smart on getting a new HD since the other one is toast and didn't put you dead on the street.

Good luck - DSM
 
I am replacing my main seal, oil pump sprocket seal, balance shaft seal, water pump and O-ring, along with the tensioners, pulleys and belts.

Just out of curiosity. I haven't continued the progress yet on the timing job, but I was thinking about the sprocket pulley. How do you torque the sprocket gear nut after you take it off? I was thinking maybe sticking a screw driver in the back hole to check your balance shaft is in sync correctly and use that as a stopper. But since I am keeping my balance shafts I don't want to mar up anything on the inside. If I tighten the nut as much as I can by hand, then line up my new belts can I torque it with the new belt on or is it too much stress to put on the bs belt? My shop manual doesn't say how to re-torque this besides the torque spec.
 
I know you said that you want to keep your BS, but I would recommend doing a balance shaft elimination while you have it torn down that much.
Its just one less fail point you will have to deal with in the future. IMO
 
I have found out the oil on that side can come from 4 places. Oil pan , oil pump itself/rear balance seal from worn oil pump, valve cover gasket on that side of the engine last but not least worn cam seals. I suggest check it all out and drive to see if you can duplicate issue. Oh forgot to mention main seal which is very unlikely.
 
I am replacing my main seal, oil pump sprocket seal, balance shaft seal, water pump and O-ring, along with the tensioners, pulleys and belts.

Just out of curiosity. I haven't continued the progress yet on the timing job, but I was thinking about the sprocket pulley. How do you torque the sprocket gear nut after you take it off? I was thinking maybe sticking a screw driver in the back hole to check your balance shaft is in sync correctly and use that as a stopper. But since I am keeping my balance shafts I don't want to mar up anything on the inside. If I tighten the nut as much as I can by hand, then line up my new belts can I torque it with the new belt on or is it too much stress to put on the bs belt? My shop manual doesn't say how to re-torque this besides the torque spec.

Replace all the seals with OE seals. The oil pump sprocket can be torqued by carefully placing a flat screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape between the gear and alignment mark on the case.

For the cam seals, remove the cam caps to access them.

There are many opinions on whether or not you should retain balance shaft belts. I retained mine during my last belt service in January. It is just as likely to fail as the timing belt if it is not serviced. I would only remove it when doing a full rebuild. My GSX sees plenty of track time and no balance shaft failures.
 
I am replacing my main seal, oil pump sprocket seal, balance shaft seal, water pump and O-ring, along with the tensioners, pulleys and belts.

Just out of curiosity. I haven't continued the progress yet on the timing job, but I was thinking about the sprocket pulley. How do you torque the sprocket gear nut after you take it off? I was thinking maybe sticking a screw driver in the back hole to check your balance shaft is in sync correctly and use that as a stopper. But since I am keeping my balance shafts I don't want to mar up anything on the inside. If I tighten the nut as much as I can by hand, then line up my new belts can I torque it with the new belt on or is it too much stress to put on the bs belt? My shop manual doesn't say how to re-torque this besides the torque spec.
when you take the oil pump sprocket seal off take a picture of that area and post it. Make sure its not oval shaped.
 
Alright so I did make a little bit of progress here today. I found out where the leak is coming from. Ready........ here is comes...... its the oil pan WTF. Good job to everyone who thought oil pan. I'm kinda pissed about it being the pan but I guess that's life LOL. Anyways here is the pics I took today, as well as the front case housing oil seal. It looks good no ovals here.
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Alright so I did make a little bit of progress here today. I found out where the leak is coming from. Ready........ here is comes...... its the oil pan WTF. Good job to everyone who thought oil pan. I'm kinda pissed about it being the pan but I guess that's life LOL. Anyways here is the pics I took today, as well as the front case housing oil seal. It looks good no ovals here.
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Man glad you found the cause oil pump looks good!
 
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