1G Where can i find a THERMOSTAT SENSOR UNIT to ecu

[mitsuowner1991]

As i was taking the other sensor out due to a leak i broke a plastic piece off it and i cant find it anywhere.. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED!

 

[curt-s]

are you running the factory emissions system? if not, feel free to leave it like that or break both and clean it up with jbweld. its an thermovalve for emissions

 

[19Eclipse90]

That is the thermovalve (MD103867), not the sensor for the ECU (MD069879). You may have to find the thermovalve from a dealership if you want new or a part out / junkyard if used will suffice. As mentioned, it isn't absolutely necessary for most people anymore.

The sensor for the ECU should be available at your local parts store, RockAuto, or dealership for new.

 

[mitsuowner1991]

I just called my dealer and they want 69.99 for the thermavalve.. and rock auto dosnt have it... i found it on STM for 39.99.. and when i bought the car all the vacuum ports on thr THROTTLE BODIE are capped off.. sooo i dont think i need it?...?. but what them lines are connected to is still on the motor.. also should i get a 180* or 195* thermostat... the reason im doing this is almost all of them were leaking coolant. So im teflon taping them..

That is the thermovalve (MD103867), not the sensor for the ECU (MD069879). You may have to find the thermovalve from a dealership if you want new or a part out / junkyard if used will suffice. As mentioned, it isn't absolutely necessary for most people anymore.

The sensor for the ECU should be available at your local parts store, RockAuto, or dealership for new.

I have a list of all the parts and mixed up the names. My b..

 

[rabenne]

180° will be good in summer. When I lived in upstate NY I ran a 195° in the winter. I believe the ECU starts pulling timing around 203°F.

I would recommend the hottest thermostat you can find that will keep you under 200°F ECT in normal operating conditions. If you can run the 195°F and rarely dip over 200°F then you will be better off that way.

Your engine oil actually likes heat. Not sure on this platform, but on many race cars they want HOT oil temp and cold water temp. Since oil temp is mainly a function of water temp (and other variables) on these cars these cars you don't want to run too low of an ECT. I have seen people run no t-stat and I am willing to bet their oil isnt getting hot enough to work well (120°F - 140°F)

I also see some swapping to external oil coolers and scratch my head... Oil operates better hot. I use the stock oil-cooler/filter housing and have yet to see my oil get above 170°F in extended driving/ repeated WOT pulls. Mobil 1, for example, is stable to 500°F so you are not going to get it "too hot". Since oil flows better hot, I want my oil as hot as I can get it.

... and I just convinced myself to loop the oil cooler hoses...

If someone has a differing view point or data to suggest my logic is bad, PLEASE SHARE! I am interested in learning!

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

You should run a 195 thermostat wherever you are the ECU DOES NOT pull timing @ 203 as it doesn't activate the fans till 212-213. No matter what thermostat you get it will still heat up the point where the fans turn on. Even if you run no thermostat. A 180 however will allow the temperature to go lower while driving as it opens sooner. If you want to upgrade find a high flow thermostat with factory temp setting. That being said a 180 tstat will not do any harm if you do want it. The stock ecu stops adding fuel by that point. The higher temp helps your car burn more efficiently though, so that's something to consider.

 

[mitsuowner1991]

What does the 1g come with. Stock? my engine is built. But still have a baby turbo and manifold.. . Im working on getting it on the road.. i would think a 180 would be good.. im in jersey and just cruising.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

180° will be good in summer. When I lived in upstate NY I ran a 195° in the winter. I believe the ECU starts pulling timing around 203°F.

I would recommend the hottest thermostat you can find that will keep you under 200°F ECT in normal operating conditions. If you can run the 195°F and rarely dip over 200°F then you will be better off that way.

Your engine oil actually likes heat. Not sure on this platform, but on many race cars they want HOT oil temp and cold water temp. Since oil temp is mainly a function of water temp (and other variables) on these cars these cars you don't want to run too low of an ECT. I have seen people run no t-stat and I am willing to bet their oil isnt getting hot enough to work well (120°F - 140°F)

I also see some swapping to external oil coolers and scratch my head... Oil operates better hot. I use the stock oil-cooler/filter housing and have yet to see my oil get above 170°F in extended driving/ repeated WOT pulls. Mobil 1, for example, is stable to 500°F so you are not going to get it "too hot". Since oil flows better hot, I want my oil as hot as I can get it.

... and I just convinced myself to loop the oil cooler hoses...

If someone has a differing view point or data to suggest my logic is bad, PLEASE SHARE! I am interested in learning!

You don't want your oil temp as hot as possible especially on a turbo car. Just driving you should see 210-220. Racing you'll likely see up to 250*-270, hence the need for a better cooler to keep them from raising higher. Every 10 degrees above that is added wear and breakdown of the oil that you don't need. If you drive your car hard and your oil temps get too high without a cooler, you'll have no way to cool it off besides stopping or slowing down. While racing your oil temps will get way hotter than you driving around some back roads. That's why they use external air coolers because they are more effective.

Your coolant cooler is also an oil heater as the coolant will warm up long before your oil so it also works double duty helping get your oil temp up sooner. Your shooting yourself in the foot looping the lines. Also the oil running through your turbo will be hotter than the oil in your pan and if your run no cooler and your oil temps stay high, you'll increase the chances of oil coking and cooking inside your turbo when you shut the engine down. Your oil temps need to be regulated same as your coolant as your oil also helps keep your engine cool to which is increasingly needed when your increase your power output.

Not sure where your measuring from but I have a car at my house with an external cooler and oil temps normally reach 190+. And higher when doing runs.

 

[rabenne]

I respect your opinion but I disagree... hot oil flows better. I don't use oil that breaks down at 200F and I have been running the same turbo for 11 years, so I don't think oil coking in the turbo is an issue. I see your point about looping the lines... that is something I might experiment with. It is a oil heater during warmup, and ECT always stays higher than oil temp (on my setup), so maybe I am best leaving my oil heater hooked up, !

I also get what you are saying about race cars needing more oil cooling capacity, but most of the time I see it on mild street cars. If you are a road racer or autox, maybe you would end up needing one, but I wouldn't even consider it until oil temp was well over 200F. And if your car is split duty between street and track, you will be running cold oil on the street (NOT GOOD). Perhaps you could block most of the core off while street driving to get the oil to proper temps.

I still want my oil HOTTER than what I can currently achieve with my setup.

The 1g ECU does NOT pull timing based on ECT (you are correct). That is the 2g (@206F), and I didn't know they were different, sorry for the incorrect info. 1g pulls timing based on IAT.

I am not a powertrain development engineer, but I just got done speaking with one, and he said run your oil hot and coolant cool. Take it or leave it.

Also please check out this quick article from HOT ROD.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/engine-oil-temperature/

Best of luck

 

[mitsuowner1991]

Stm had the part.

 

[curt-s]

great but unless its connected to a working emissions control system, its a useless spend.

 

[rabenne]

+1