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Wheel bearing questions

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jakelandry

10+ Year Contributor
976
157
Oct 13, 2009
Minden, Louisiana
Ok ive searched this and its a fairly unique question. A while back i hit a curb and ever since my car goes wub wub wub at 40+ mph. Ive taken literally every single suspension part out and inspected it and the ONLY issue i could find was a slight bit of slack in the wheel bearing.

Since im not confident that the wheel bearing is the problem id like to put a cheap ebay wheel bearing in and see if it fixes the problem. I previously put a front driverside ebay wheel hub in and It said the fittament was for Damn near anything front wheel drive chrysler. Well after putting the wheel bearing in i dropped my car a few inches and ever since i get a popping sound when i take right turns. Its because the axle is being forced into the transmission. I put my car up on a lift and put it in first and all the wheels were spinning except the one where the axle was being forced into the transmission. I thought it may be a longer axle than stock at first but after thinking about it i thought it could be the wheel hub. Maybe the offset wasnt the same on the one i bought or something and it was forcing the axle into the transmission. Can anyone confirm awd dsm's have a general chrysler wheel hub? Thanks in advance for the replies.
 
Part Number on the hub you ordered?

I know that the k-based Chrysler cars virtually were all the same; the Neon were press-in; but those cars are significatly different than the FJ (aka 2g "dsm") chassis. From what I've found on RockAuto, the only hub bearings that would be compatible are the Avenger, Sebring (coupe), Talon, and Eclipse, Galant, and Stratus (ST - 2001-05) So basically anything built on the FJ, and ST platforms. Showed that FWD and AWD were the same. There is a difference between the FWD and AWD for the rear.

Hope that helps clarify some things. You may have a hub assembly from the older Chrysler cars.
 
Wrong bearing assembly.....a lot of Parts sellers group the DSM with the Chrysler group. They fail to search the correctly after all they want to sell parts.
 
depending on how cheap you went it is probably a bad bearing and made wrong i see the same issue at work daily. customers want the cheapest part possible to get them by and it never works right. but in your case measure how wide the oem is and match it to the replacement first. you may have just got a bad one the first time.
 
That's the correct bearing.

As to your test, if you have an OE open front diff, then one wheel might not turn at all when you run the car in gear with all four wheels off the ground. If one wheel bearing resists turning more than the other by more that what's required to make the front diff spin its spiders, then one wheel won't turn. The real question (to me) is whether, when you lift the nose of the car in gear but off, and rotate one front wheel, does the other turns the opposite way and how much torque is required to turn said wheel. That will tell you how much the front axles are binding.

It would not surprise me if a brand-new bearing resisted rotation more than an old one. Packed full of new grease, it would resist rotation more than a nearly-dead bearing.
 
Well when I had it on the lift I would stop the spinning wheel and the other would spin. But within seconds of letting go the binded wheel would stop and the recently held wheel would spin, so I'm assuming it's fairly bound. I originally thought the axle must be bad however it has held up to 50+ launches and 12 second passes, it just vibrates and binds up when I turn. Are there different lengths of driverside axles? I know hen I ordered my passenger side axle there were 3 lengths...

Edit: I forgot to include the axle is snapped into the transmission, so its not from it not being fully engaged.
 
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