Whats your opinion on my new setup?

[mchustle]

Ok I have no idea where to put this so mods feel free to move it.

So a couple weeks ago I finally blew my egay 16g at the track. While it was down I said screw it and went crazy ordering parts . I'm sticking with the 6bolt block stock. My 7bolt head I had checked out by a machine shop turns out the whole time 7 out of 8 exhaust valves were slightly warped/burnt . I took the valve out of a donor head I had and he did a full valve job , stems, pressure checked, leveled it, and reemed the head bolt holes out for a 6bolt. Parts list so far is
I've got: arp head studs, delta h272s, fel pro top end kit, gates racing Kevlar belt, and a fp 4in intake
Ordered and in the mail I've got: holset hx35 in bep Bolton housing, pr recirc o2 housing, and a Tial 38mm wg.
Im pretty sure I've got a deal worked out with a guy for some rc 1000cc injectors to top off the build, along with the mods in my current profile.

I'm aiming for around 25psi on 93 oct. I'm wanting to be done and running by oct 6 for the last night at the drag strip and hoping for 12s but will happily settle for 13s with my bad driving . As of now it's going to be on street tires unless I can find some slicks that will fit in the budget .

Let me know what you all think about the new setup, and feel free to give any input or advice. Thanks

 

[talon2gbuyer]

Don't rush the build. If you do, you'll be sorry. Take your time and do the installs right and you'll have a pretty good set up for the track

 

[mchustle]

I'm taking my time. I'm pretty sure I can do a head gasket and turbo bolt on in a week taking my time and being careful . Thanks for the input

 

[93TSiguy]

As long as your confident in your own abilities at rebuilding a motor. I think what he's saying, ### I definitely am is, DON'T RUSH THE SMALL STUFF, its easy to blow past the little things when putting so many little parts back together when you run into binds and realize that your deadline is approaching way faster then you can get that "extra bolt" or "gasket" in to finish reassembly.

 

[lworzgsx]

As I am in the same boat as you are, i would take it slow... i got ahead of myself and ordered some parts that i didnt even need ( stupid i know)Take your time and do everything right and in the end youll be glad you waited.

 

[mchustle]

I've basically disassembled everything in my head multiple times and made parts list about 8 times . I get what you all are saying but I'm confident I've gotten/ordered everything I need. Hopefully it goes smooth without any snags, but it is a Dsm . If I don't make the last day it's not a huge deal, I originally didn't think I was going to have the funds to finish anywhere near soon enough.

 

[WES_393]

When it comes to the 6-bolt, Standard ARP studs are considered a downgrade from stock head bolts. Otherwise it sounds like a nice set of upgrades.

 

[mchustle]

When it comes to the 6-bolt, Standard ARP studs are considered a downgrade from stock head bolts. Otherwise it sounds like a nice set of upgrades.

Interesting I've never heard that before. Got any info on why?

 

[IrishBeatdown]

Ok I have no idea where to put this so mods feel free to move it.

So a couple weeks ago I finally blew my egay 16g at the track. While it was down I said screw it and went crazy ordering parts . I'm sticking with the 6bolt block stock. My 7bolt head I had checked out by a machine shop turns out the whole time 7 out of 8 exhaust valves were slightly warped/burnt . I took the valve out of a donor head I had and he did a full valve job , stems, pressure checked, leveled it, and reemed the head bolt holes out for a 6bolt. Parts list so far is
I've got: arp head studs, delta h272s, fel pro top end kit, gates racing Kevlar belt, and a fp 4in intake
Ordered and in the mail I've got: holset hx35 in bep Bolton housing, pr recirc o2 housing, and a Tial 38mm wg.
Im pretty sure I've got a deal worked out with a guy for some rc 1000cc injectors to top off the build, along with the mods in my current profile.

I'm aiming for around 25psi on 93 oct. I'm wanting to be done and running by oct 6 for the last night at the drag strip and hoping for 12s but will happily settle for 13s with my bad driving . As of now it's going to be on street tires unless I can find some slicks that will fit in the budget .

Let me know what you all think about the new setup, and feel free to give any input or advice. Thanks

Yeah im in the same boat as you, im 4 projects ahead of myself, I have all the stuff for a complete new fuel system, timing belt/balance shaft elim job, new clutch with oem replacements for everything, parts for head rebuild/upgrade, new rad, new fan, blah blah blah, new turbo and manifold/dual tials. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't do it that way. I'm way too much into the parts $$$ with no "real" work done so far, just random crap, been busy. Demoralizing. Everything looks good on your list though, you have a respectable pumper and afpr? new clutch? link? Good luck!

 

[T is for TURBO]

When it comes to the 6-bolt, Standard ARP studs are considered a downgrade from stock head bolts. Otherwise it sounds like a nice set of upgrades.

Huh?

 

[mchustle]

Yeah im in the same boat as you, im 4 projects ahead of myself, I have all the stuff for a complete new fuel system, timing belt/balance shaft elim job, new clutch with oem replacements for everything, parts for head rebuild/upgrade, new rad, new fan, blah blah blah, new turbo and manifold/dual tials. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't do it that way. I'm way too much into the parts $$$ with no "real" work done so far, just random crap, been busy. Demoralizing. Everything looks good on your list though, you have a respectable pumper and afpr? new clutch? link? Good luck!

Yea I know the feeling . I've got a wally 255, afpr, link v3, and act 2600 6 puck sprung clutch.

 

[WES_393]

Interesting I've never heard that before. Got any info on why?

It's been the general consensus for quite a while. The 6-bolt head bolt is a much stronger material and design than the 7-bolt. People have just assumed that since the 7-bolt stockers are weak, so are the 6-bolts. In reality the 6-bolt stock bolts can handle 600hp on a good tune. Supporting evidence:

Just to add:

1: Agreed, 6-bolt head bolts (HB) are not torque to yield. However, like any other fastener that has a torque value, the bolt will stretch. The difference between a 6-bolt and 7-bolt HB is that the 7-bolt HB will experience stress beyond the material's yield point, meaning it will plastically deform/permanently stretch and land outside specifications. A 6-bolt HB will typically deform elastically, meaning it does not stretch permanently or experience stress above its yield point and it will return to its original length. As the bolts stretch plastically, they harden and become brittle making them easier to break or otherwise fail (loosen, etc.).

They are almost 2MM larger than the 7-bolt bolts at the shank.

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[IrishBeatdown]

Yea I know the feeling . I've got a wally 255, afpr, link v3, and act 2600 6 puck sprung clutch.

You are square then, looks like you have everything you need to run your setup effectively, any more would be add-ons, you have a good core to work from. My advice to you is stop buying shit and put it in your car. You dont want to end up like me, with all the means in the world, and making no progress on my car. It would be fine if i didnt have any parts, but to have all this shit and not have it in my car already haunts my soul.

 

[mchustle]

It's been the general consensus for quite a while. The 6-bolt head bolt is a much stronger material and design than the 7-bolt. People have just assumed that since the 7-bolt stockers are weak, so are the 6-bolts. In reality the 6-bolt stock bolts can handle 600hp on a good tune. Supporting evidence:

That doesn't tell me how 6bolt bolts are better than studs.

 

[WES_393]

That doesn't tell me how 6bolt bolts are better than studs.

They are stronger because they are made from a better material and aren't torqued to yield in the first place. ARP standard head studs have only gotten such a high reputation because they replace the spaghetti-noodle 7-bolt head bolts. The 6-bolt bolts are already strong from the factory, stronger than ARP standard studs. Like in the quote I posted:

"7-bolt HB will experience stress beyond the material's yield point, meaning it will plastically deform/permanently stretch and land outside specifications"

"A 6-bolt HB will typically deform elastically, meaning it does not stretch permanently or experience stress above its yield point"

This is why 7-bolts need head studs for 400hp and 6-bolts do not. 6-bolt stock bolts aren't under much stress to begin with and are made from a stronger material. If you still don't believe me or have doubts on the validity of this info, I'd advise you to search about it. But this was common knowledge 5 years ago and was first posted by our Wisemen/Mods about 10 years ago, so I can promise this isn't ground-breaking info.

 

[mchustle]

Well I said I was finished buying parts, BUT I'm a weak guy and found a deal I couldn't pass up . Went and meet a guy to buy a fp 4in intake for $40, and he had a crap ton of other parts. He was saying he wanted somebody to buy it all because he has an evo now and wants all his Dsm stuff out of the way. He had a fresh 6bolt head, block, 2 good cranks, 2 sets of piston, 3 core aluminum rad, 3 sets of stock cams, and a crap ton of other parts. He said I could have it all for $300 which I though was a great deal, but I'm cheap. So I told him I was probably the only person that would buy it around here and it's just in his way, ended up getting everything including the intake I was going to pay $40 for, for $150 . Loaded up 2 totes of stuff, the head, block, rad and intake and went home. Oh and there was 2 sets of arp head studs .

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[turboglenn]

setup sounds like a great platform on which to have a lot of fun this coming fall and next spring when you've gotten it all dfialed in..

I will back up the 6 bolt head bolts being better than their ARP replacement as i just posted in the L19 with composite HG thread about how dissapointed i was in the lifespan of my ARP 2k's, 5 uses and three stretched so bad you could visibly see them being longer and thinned out at the threads up "top" allowing me to pop two HG's in less than a month, and this was at only 4 years old tops, and by 5 uses i mean one original install and 4 teardowns and replacements of the top end. I've see 19 year old 6 bolt allen head bolts with way more re-uses and they kept right on going, my ARP's were only ever over torqued by 5 lbs and that was on a re-torque because i felt the ARP moly lube was washed off at that point by engine oil since it had been about a week from the original install

keep the progrss updfated, and my advice would be to measure the arp's and sell them gfot either l19'S or for funding another part and using stock 6 bolt units

 

[mchustle]

Well finally put the head back on, now just have to do timing and make this huge holset fit . I'm glad I switched to a 6bolt thermostat housing and nonturbo water pipe.

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[greekgodchaos]

I've basically disassembled everything in my head multiple times and made parts list about 8 times .

I would like to see this list (provided it isn't the same one in your first post), and good move on doing a mock rebuild in your head, makes things go a LOT smoother. I just finished rebuilding my engine for the first time and here are my words of advice:


+Anything measured should be written down for future reference (something I skipped due to impatience to end my 1 year build)
+If replacing piston rings, make sure to check any and all ring gap.
+DO NOT USE A FELPRO OIL PAN GASKET, they leak; use either Mitsubond, RTV Ultra Grey or The Right Stuff Gasket Maker
+What are your plans for the oil return line? You have a Holset I see but are you welding a bung directly to the oil pan or are you going to bolt on an adaptor for it? And if you are bolting it on, for God's sake USE THE OEM 6MM CRUSH WASHERS, saves a LOT of headache.
+All gaskets should be sprayed with Permatex Copper Spray Gasket for added tack.
+DO NOT REPLACE PERFECTLY GOOD OEM BOLTS FOR LESSER GRADE HARDWARE STORE ONES! Made this mistake, luckily I used them only in places I could easily access, so those got replaced within the first 10 miles of my break-in.
+I suggest Grade 8 Bolts for the Transmission to Block bolts, as I broke 2 and then had to use an extractor to get them out...BADDD
+Ditch your Oil Dummy Light for a Digital Oil Pressure Gauge sender, more useful.
+Get a NEW OEM Harmonic Balancer and ALL NEW OEM TIMING BELT COMPONENTS, added peace of mind.
+Quadruple check your timing job, it took me 7 times to make sure it finally took.
+If you can find a good deal, I recommend OEM Evo 8 Valve Springs and Retainers, beehive design and way lighter than OEM. I found my set for $10 shipped and they all checked out perfectly.
+3mm Lifters?

I could go on, but I have calculus homework to do, so best of luck and hope nothing goes wrong!

 

[mchustle]

I would like to see this list (provided it isn't the same one in your first post), and good move on doing a mock rebuild in your head, makes things go a LOT smoother. I just finished rebuilding my engine for the first time and here are my words of advice:


+Anything measured should be written down for future reference (something I skipped due to impatience to end my 1 year build)
+If replacing piston rings, make sure to check any and all ring gap.
+DO NOT USE A FELPRO OIL PAN GASKET, they leak; use either Mitsubond, RTV Ultra Grey or The Right Stuff Gasket Maker
+What are your plans for the oil return line? You have a Holset I see but are you welding a bung directly to the oil pan or are you going to bolt on an adaptor for it? And if you are bolting it on, for God's sake USE THE OEM 6MM CRUSH WASHERS, saves a LOT of headache.
+All gaskets should be sprayed with Permatex Copper Spray Gasket for added tack.
+DO NOT REPLACE PERFECTLY GOOD OEM BOLTS FOR LESSER GRADE HARDWARE STORE ONES! Made this mistake, luckily I used them only in places I could easily access, so those got replaced within the first 10 miles of my break-in.
+I suggest Grade 8 Bolts for the Transmission to Block bolts, as I broke 2 and then had to use an extractor to get them out...BADDD
+Ditch your Oil Dummy Light for a Digital Oil Pressure Gauge sender, more useful.
+Get a NEW OEM Harmonic Balancer and ALL NEW OEM TIMING BELT COMPONENTS, added peace of mind.
+Quadruple check your timing job, it took me 7 times to make sure it finally took.
+If you can find a good deal, I recommend OEM Evo 8 Valve Springs and Retainers, beehive design and way lighter than OEM. I found my set for $10 shipped and they all checked out perfectly.
+3mm Lifters?

I could go on, but I have calculus homework to do, so best of luck and hope nothing goes wrong!

Thanks for all the info. I pretty much just did a head gasket job so that bypasses most of the info you posted, not that it's bad info. The evo springs and retainers I looked around for but couldn't really find any in my budget right now but I plan on getting the tool to remove the springs with the head on te car and. Switch them out in a month or two. Hardware wise all my oem bolts were in good shape, really helps when you already have a couple disassembled motors worth of parts in your building . I'm using the bolt on oil return line with a oem gasket and hardware, just until I get my other pan welded with a bung. Timing is the biggest thing left and I'm takling it tomorrow so hopefully I can get it ok I'm just going to follow the vfaq and recheck everything a few times, tensioner is the only thing worrying me right now.

As long as timing goes alright and my injectors get here tomorrow it should be running tomorrow night or sat morning.

All I have left is the dreaded timing and the easy stuff, hooking up sensors water lines, dp,radiator, and ic piping. Also have to wash out my fmic with something to get all the oil out, haven't decided if I'm using gas or brakecleen yet.

Here is a pic of today's progress.

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[1g-awd-talon]

I'm honestly glad I reserved post. I always thought arp was ths too dog but they are not so I'm now keeping my stock ones