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Whats the point of the FIAV bypass plate if you can use this...

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Does anyone know thje part number for the gasket that goes between the upper and lower part of the throttle body?

I believe it may be MD614406, but, can anyone confirm this?
 
That is the correct part number, it's for 91-99 throttle bodies.
 
And I should only need one when installing the fiav bypass plate, correct?
 
Or maybe because we don't want to take the chance of the IAC going bad and popping an ECU we've spend $160+ on.


I've completely blocked off my IAC and FIAV with a block-off plate($5 from my buddy shane, makes all kinds of parts like this) and my idle is rock solid steady. Cold starts aren't an issue at all, just hold my foot on the car for a little bit and it'll idle by itself rock solid.

What compensates for your AC, fans cycling on and off, or just extra load on alternator?
Dunno About you, but I track my car with AC, headlights on and sound system bumping. Then again on the track you dont idle much. Oh and I DD the car. :hellyeah:
As far as how many ECU's I've seen killed by the IAC? Not much.....I've seen IAC die all the time but never killed the ECU in the process. I've got a little more the lose, my ECU is $1200.
 
What compensates for your AC, fans cycling on and off, or just extra load on alternator?
Dunno About you, but I track my car with AC, headlights on and sound system bumping. Then again on the track you dont idle much. Oh and I DD the car. :hellyeah:
As far as how many ECU's I've seen killed by the IAC? Not much.....I've seen IAC die all the time but never killed the ECU in the process. I've got a little more the lose, my ECU is $1200.

Sorta OT, but how well does the AEM work for you as far as idling and the varying loads from the AC and alternator effecting your target idle speed?

I have to give you thanks for your article on turning the FIAV plug all the way in. I'v been installing/selling Haltech systems for about 14 years and although they have always done ~ok on a DD car's idle, turning the FIAV all the way in per your thread has helped a ton, my model doesn't have a real AC compensation but uses a closed loop idle control and when there's a load on it, the ECU just opens the stepper motor a few more positions
 
AEM uses the stock AC input into the ECU. You tell it what to do with the signal via the Idle A/C Load Comp option. You set how many steps the ISC moves to achive target idle with the AC on. AEM also works with the powersteering pressure switch input to raise the idle when the engien sees power steerign load at low speeds like paralell parking. Among about 100 or so other idle options.
 
What compensates for your AC, fans cycling on and off, or just extra load on alternator?
Dunno About you, but I track my car with AC, headlights on and sound system bumping. Then again on the track you dont idle much. Oh and I DD the car. :hellyeah:
As far as how many ECU's I've seen killed by the IAC? Not much.....I've seen IAC die all the time but never killed the ECU in the process. I've got a little more the lose, my ECU is $1200.




I'm an automatic, I've never had any trouble at all with idle dropping too low, and I don't know what track you are making runs at, but my local track doesn't allow passes with the A/C on because it wets the track. Anytime the idle does want to drop at all, I just hold the brake, barely touch the gas, and bam. Idle is great. ;)

And I've personally killed 4 ECU's with a bad IAC motor, on two different DSM's. After that I said screw all that noise and just blocked it off. It's great that you think everyone else that doesn't do what you do is wrong, but in this aspect not everyone wants to block their ISC off just "because race car", and not everyone wants to take the chance of the ISC going bad and popping the ECU like they have been known to do. Some people like me have legitimate reasoning behind their decisions. :thumb:


Don't generalize so much. Just because you disagree with what people do, doesn't make you automatically right. :)
 
Damn, that's pretty intense setup for idle, but they did put a lot of options in the AEM, I haven't touched one in about 3 years, but i use to tune the plug n play units for a local shop and although i liked the AEM it took me many years to learn what half their values and names for common things really meant and did LOL, coming from DOS based DFI and the simple haltech and autronic stuff, the AEM was almost too many buttons to play with LOL. I knew the guy who worked with AEM on selling them the US rights to the GEMS/ProEFI system that became the AEM, I was really good friends with his brother and haven't seen either since Jason moved out there and took the job with AEM

Haltech uses the same AC input butit's really more for granting or denying the request for the compressor to run, but the newer haltech units have AC comp in the idle as well as the PS and such, i just don't really mess with hooking up everybit of it unless it's in a plug n play unit that already is wired for it. I like to do strip down wire tucks when i do a stand alone isntall. TO me that's 1/4th the reason to buy a SA speed density system, getting rid of uneeded crap in the engine bay
 
Cracked is all mad. Sorry bro.

On the track question, I do more than just 1/4 mile. I AutoX and Road Road race my DD. Usually out at the local tracks its 105+* air temps and 130+* track temps. Any drops of water from the AC system usualy vaporizes instantly, some of the cars out there run intercooler/oilcooler/radiator sprayers and other water spraying systems to keep temps down. So water on the track isnt anything unusual. I havent ran in a rain event, but that also happens.

On the note of 4 dead ISC drivers....wow. Thats some crap luck. I've seen the the whole dead capacitor thing over and over, but not once have me, clients, nor friends ever had that issue. And the "because race car" comment, its a joke so dont take it too seriously. Why 100+ idle settings? Because race car.

@turboglenn
AEM as with most SA systems offer options for every scenario and counting. Aside from it being PNP, its still a SA that is designed to run any motor from a John Deer mower if it was fuel injected, up to a 12cylinder. Half the options I dont use, and the other half is just setting up the ECU to know how to control the Mitsu ISC.

@Corey
Honestly only 1% of the DSM community would need a standalone. Link has most if not all functions covered. As simple and not so great of a feature I love the most on AEM is the on board logging. Which is more of a geek thing than anything.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Block Off Plate from Steve at Throttlebody.com, no ISC = No problems with over 60k miles and counting.

IMO, just plate it off and sell the ISC, 20 seconds in cold weather and the car idles fine. I also have my idle at 800rpm so those little blips below it don't stall the car out.
 
I know this is a little old. BUT... I blocked it off completly, what do i do with the plug? Just leave it unplugged? Or will that throw a CEL or bug something?
 
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