Whats the point of the FIAV bypass plate if you can use this...

[njc1064]

what is the difference between using the blockoff plate and using this free mod:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/320951-fiav-adjustment-disable.html

Is the plate even necessary? If not, what is the point of buying/installing the plate?

 

[Boosted98gsx]

blockoff allows you to completely remove the coolant lines running to the throttlebody and possible IAT increase point.

 

[njc1064]

blockoff allows you to completely remove the coolant lines running to the throttlebody and possible IAT increase point.

Okay, so, even if i plan on using the FIAV bypass that i purchased, should i still remove the freeze plug and turn that know until it is completely closed?

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Okay, so, even if i plan on using the FIAV bypass that i purchased, should i still remove the freeze plug and turn that know until it is completely closed?

please link to said "FIAV bypass".

 

[njc1064]

please link to said "FIAV bypass".

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/320951-fiav-adjustment-disable.html

In the above link, the author is turning a dial (located under the Freeze plug) and is seemingly not using a FIAV bypass. If i use this plate, do i still need to close the valve which the author cites?

 

[Boostinsideways]

no.

The plates are for people like me that broke that shit trying to turn it.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/320951-fiav-adjustment-disable.html

In the above link, the author is turning a dial (located under the Freeze plug) and is seemingly not using a FIAV bypass. If i use this plate, do i still need to close the valve which the author cites?

The blockoff plate completely removes the FIAV from the system, therefore, there is no need to adjust the FIAV....

 

[njc1064]

no.

The plates are for people like me that broke that shit trying to turn it.

So, the plate is really unnecessary? And, i suppose closing that valve and also installing the bypass plate is okay too?

 

[Boosted98gsx]

So, the plate is really unnecessary? And, i suppose closing that valve and also installing the bypass plate is okay too?

The plate is necessary when you're tired of heating up your intake temps to retain some stupid OEM control feature.

 

[njc1064]

The blockoff plate completely removes the FIAV from the system, therefore, there is no need to adjust the FIAV....

That link doesnt explicitly state if he is performing a bypass or a total blockoff (or, maybe i misinterpreted it).

Being that im going to be using the FIAV "bypass" plate, should i close that valve?

Also, is there a link on vfaq that explains the bypass process? I Thought there use to be, but, i havent been able to find it?

And, Isnt the "bypass" essentially the same as the "blockoff" process (except for the bypass process retains the ISC whereas the the blockoff process eliminates it)?

 

[Boosted98gsx]

That link is to adjust the spring tension on the FIAV correcting it to work properly again if it fails to meet current standards (or put in full compression so that it will not open at all when the spring is cold, virtually disabling the FIAV).

If you're using a blockoff, YOU DO NOT NEED TO WORRY ABOUT ANYTHING. You are BLOCKING OFF the FIAV, therefore, no need to adjust it....

 

[njc1064]

That link is to adjust the spring tension on the FIAV correcting it to work properly again if it fails to meet current standards (or put in full compression so that it will not open at all when the spring is cold, virtually disabling the FIAV).

If you're using a blockoff, YOU DO NOT NEED TO WORRY ABOUT ANYTHING. You are BLOCKING OFF the FIAV, therefore, no need to adjust it....

Thanks for the clarification!

 

[LiquidX]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/391977-free-fiav-block.html

There are 2 type of plates. 1 is a block off plate which blocks off ALL throttle plate bypassing airflow. That includes the FIAV and the IAC. Next is a bypass plate which still allows the use of the IAC but blocks off the FIAV.

If you are going to remove both the ICS and FIAV it would be good to get a block off plate so you can remove the lower half of the TB to clean up the bay. If you are going to only block the FIAV, turn the valve in all the way and it will close off the passage way. No need for a bypass plate.

The link I posted is an article I did that was based off of Sams article and explains the differences.

In a nutshell the only time you would need a plate is if you block both the ICS and FIAV so you can remove the lower half of the TB. Otherwise, there is no need to spend money on it.

 

[njc1064]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/391977-free-fiav-block.html

There are 2 type of plates. 1 is a block off plate which blocks off ALL throttle plate bypassing airflow. That includes the FIAV and the IAC. Next is a bypass plate which still allows the use of the IAC but blocks off the FIAV.

If you are going to remove both the ICS and FIAV it would be good to get a block off plate so you can remove the lower half of the TB to clean up the bay. If you are going to only block the FIAV, turn the valve in all the way and it will close off the passage way. No need for a bypass plate.

The link I posted is an article I did that was based off of Sams article and explains the differences.

In a nutshell the only time you would need a plate is if you block both the ICS and FIAV so you can remove the lower half of the TB. Otherwise, there is no need to spend money on it.

This is a great link!

As much as i'd love to completely block off and delete the entire bottom half of the throttle body, i'm concerned about an inconsistent idle. At least by bypassing the FIAV, i can still retain the ISC, which should help to alleviate an inconsistent idle.T

Though it may delay the process a few days, i will probably wait for the bypass plate to complete the process (basically because i already ordered it).

 

[m_0ney_pit]

I don't think its possible to close the fiav all the way just by turning the adjustment screw behind the freeze plug. Even when the adjustment is maxed out it still leaves a small gap between the bimetal springs plunger and the plastic case.

Another option is to get a aluminum slug and oring and stick that in the hole and put the freeze plug back in, that will completely seal the fiav passage off and allow the ISC to control the warmup cycle and idle.

 

[LiquidX]

The FIAV is 100% closed m0neypit.


Well, there goes $20 for you as bottoming the valve will do the same thing as the bypass plate.

 

[njc1064]

Well, there goes $20 for you as bottoming the valve will do the same thing as the bypass plate.

, i thought the exact same thing! But, i already ordered the plate before i stumbled across that write-up and its more of a hassle to send it back (and would probably cost me 1/4 of the original purchase price anyway).

Years ago, i had bypassed the FIAV with a plate made from an aluminum can. This past weekend, while performing a boost leak test, i found a slight leak between the Throttle body and manifold. I figured since it had to come off anyway, might as well go back and do the bypass in a more reliable manner.

 

[LiquidX]

Be sure to put a thin layer of RTV on both sides of the plate to ensure a proper leak free seal.

 

[njc1064]

Be sure to put a thin layer of RTV on both sides of the plate to ensure a proper leak free seal.

Which color RTV? Even on the side with the rubber gasket?

 

[jpmxrider489]

If you block it off you will probably have bad idle issues. Cold starts will be hard. You can loop the lines together.

 

[g4ebguy90]

I have blocked off the ISC and the FIAV, you just go to keep a little on the throttle for about 1 min on start up, after that it idles just fine. I love it. In winter I will have to put a different TB on though.

 

[m_0ney_pit]

If you block it off you will probably have bad idle issues. Cold starts will be hard. You can loop the lines together.

"It" is extremely ambiguous

There is two separate passages in the assembly that bolts to the bottom of the TB. One goes through a bimetal spring assembly that is heated by the coolant to expand which pushes a plastic plunger into plastic oring...this is the FIAV. The second passage in the assembly is for the ISC valve. They are independent systems and if you block the FIAV it does not effect the ISC.

In winter you may need to modify the engine temp vs. idle rpm table with either ecuflash or dsmlink (whatever you use). You may also need to modify the initial isc start position table but I didn't bother with it because the ecu modifies the position of the ISC based on what it reads from the idle position table anyway.

Liquid - how many times did your screw rotate from adjusted completely out to completely in? Also what is your ISC step position when the car is warmed up?

The poeple I have talked to that did this end up with an idle around 750-1000 rpm with the ISC at step 0-5. This means the Fiav is not completly closed. If it were completly closed the position should be around 20 in this idle range.

 

[LiquidX]

I turned the valve in at least 5 whole revolutions. I did it after rebuilding my TB so everything was messed with. Currently my ISC isn't working properly but I'm generally around a 8-900rpm idle with the motor around a value of 40.

With a stock RPM of 750 along with having the ECU set the idle at 750, the ISC should be around a value of 30. But yes, a value of 0 means there is a leak going past the throttle plate and into the motor. The ISC isn't able to close up enough to block it. Otherwise, it's just an improperly adjusted BISS which is another highly common reason.

 

[Sam@RRE]

Geeze... Tuners can make vanilla cupcakes into a 3 page discussion. But I wrote that article, Yes it closes the valve that should shut when the TB is warm. If you follow the article, you wont need a block off plate unless you want to disable your ISC also, but I dont see why anyone would want to do that. Because Race car maybe?

 

[CrackedDSM]

Or maybe because we don't want to take the chance of the IAC going bad and popping an ECU we've spend $160+ on.


I've completely blocked off my IAC and FIAV with a block-off plate($5 from my buddy shane, makes all kinds of parts like this) and my idle is rock solid steady. Cold starts aren't an issue at all, just hold my foot on the car for a little bit and it'll idle by itself rock solid.