What would you do? Engine rebuild

[Iowa99GST]

Ok, so I am buying a used engine with 92k miles on it. I don't know anything about it other than the fact that it runs without any issues currently. It is from a 99 GST, and is going into my 99 GST.

My GST (before I blew the motor in it currently) was pushing 21 psi without any issues and I don't know exactly what caused the engine to blow up, but I'm wanting to rebuild this motor before I throw it in to my car.

I am currently trying to price out a parts list, but am not 100% sure what I should replace.. This is where I need help. I am looking for a reliable build that has decent power (300-350hp). It is not my daily, but at the same time I'm not in a position where I can sink money into it ALL the time.

So far I know for sure I will be grabbing a new timing belt as the owner said it hasn't been done recently. I just don't know what else I should do NOW since the motor is already out of the car.

Thank you for any ideas/help you can give.

 

[kspharris]

Just do a rebuild while its out and it will be fine. All stock components have held 400 hp reliable numerous times with no problems. I'd do it while its out.

 

[U8NTRDY]

What specifically wentt wrong in the current motor? Is the block itself still in good shape? If so why don't you rebuild the block thats in the car now rather than spending more money on another motor to build? with the saved money, you could afford to build a stronger motor

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

With 92k on it I would just do a HG and timing job, check or wear and drop it in. Stock internals can handle 300-350 HP easily.

 

[Iowa99GST]

The current motor in the car has a hole in the front of the block, the back is pretty much gone, and I obliterated the #2 cylinder. How? I have no idea.

So you guys think it would be fine to just replace all the seals, have it checked for straightness/machined if needed, and replace the timing belt?

 

[kspharris]

Yes that would/should be fine.

 

[U8NTRDY]

So you guys think it would be fine to just replace all the seals, have it checked for straightness/machined if needed, and replace the timing belt?

I think that should suffice

 

[Kev_tsi]

dont forget some arp head studes as well

 

[ktgurl87]

what about the water pump? isn't that kind of a good idea to change when you do the timing belt? -shrugs-

 

[endeffect0]

Please fill out your car info in your profile. When users answer a thread they can quickly look up your mods and have that info on hand to give better answers.

first thing I wanted to look up on you profile was your turbo and fuel and computer mods to try and figure out why your last motor bought the big one...


either way. I was in a similar position when i first got my 2g. I ended up doing a 6 bolt swap but aside from that its all the same.

I had the head checked out by a machine shop. then did at quick piston ring and bearings job on the bottom end in the garage (its really easy). bought a new set of gaskets a Good head gasked some apr bolts, factory timing belt and called it good. i know this motor will last me a long time at 350hp.. just be nice with your fluids and brake it in properly.

what I might do differently? I found that using better than factory exhaust mani studs is really nice if you ever want them to come out again. Get a brand new timing belt tensioner. Do the water pump while the engine is out. its cheap and easy to do, but if it fails when the engine is in the car the timing belt has to come off to get to it and its a bi*** to reach.

 

[Iowa99GST]

dont forget some arp head studes as well

So I was looking at ARP hardware, is anything other than just the head studs overkill? I never hear anyone talk about anything but head studs.

ktgurl87 what about the water pump? isn't that kind of a good idea to change when you do the timing belt? -shrugs-

I was thinking I'd do that as well, what about the oil pump?

endeffect0

I only had the car a month before it blew up on me =( So I don't know a WHOLE lot about what I do have, but I'll do my best to update my modification list once I start pulling the motor and see exactly what is still good on my current set up.

I know I have the Evo III 16g turbo and bigger injectors although I'm not sure specifically what size or if I have any computer mods.

Thanks for the tips so far everyone!

 

[Aproductions]

headgasket, piston rings, valve seals, arps, timing set.

you could even check bearings while its out.

 

[endeffect0]

I know I have the Evo III 16g turbo and bigger injectors although I'm not sure specifically what size or if I have any computer mods.

well when you pull everything off be sure to take pics. their are entire threads dedicated to identifying 16g variates as well as injectors.

If you have larger injectors, there is some ECU modification to control them or the computer would still be sending the signals as if you had the stock injectors, the same signal on 900cc injectors would be twice the fuel compared to your stockers.
Its worth texting the previous owner if you still have his number.

I think the first order of business should be figuring out why this one failed to be sure that condition never happens again to your new motor.

 

[MichaelSuch]

If you do ARP Main studs or rod bolts you will need to have the block and rods align honed otherwise you will be spinning bearings every few hundred miles.

How much boost do you plan on running and what are you specific goals for the car? If you plan on running 20+ psi every day and if you're going to be beating on it I would recommend going forged. But either way the bare minimum I would do with the engine out is replace all seals and gaskets, new timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, idler and tensioner bearings, and water pump. While the oil pan is off I would check all the bearings too.

But it sounds like your last one blew due to no way to control the fuel.

 

[endeffect0]

also worth asking if you have a wide band installed (put whatever you know in your car profile, click on other members Blue car links under their profile pic's to see what I am talking about. ). If not it should be considered cheap insurance, and i would absolutely plan on getting one before you throw the new motor in.

 

[Iowa99GST]

I have an Apexi SAFC 2 but I need a wideband still I think, any recommendations? And I don't know if that might be what you mean as far as fuel control goes (SAFC).

You said if I do the ARP main/rod bolts then I'll have to have the block/rods align honed, is that just pertaining to the main studs/rod bolts, or with the head studs as well?

 

[motozachl]

...But it sounds like your last one blew due to no way to control the fuel.

Judging by the OP sounds like this was the case

I have an Apexi SAFC 2 but I need a wideband still I think, any recommendations? And I don't know if that might be what you mean as far as fuel control goes (SAFC).

You said if I do the ARP main/rod bolts then I'll have to have the block/rods align honed, is that just pertaining to the main studs/rod bolts, or with the head studs as well?

Yes safc can control bigger injectors, but non higher than 650s. Other computer mods would be dsmlink or even an ecu reflash
No hone is needed with head studs, just the mains/rods. Many people just keep a stock motor and replace the headgasket and get arp headstuds then up the boost to well over 20psi

 

[FLASH1970]

I'd do a leakdown test on the engine before I tore apart anything. A leakdown test will show you if the engine still has good rings & valves. If the leakdown test comes back good, take out the head bolts and replace them with ARP's. Also do the timing belt and water pump job.