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what to do with bent valves?

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99 gst spyder

15+ Year Contributor
522
1
Jul 12, 2007
st. paul, Minnesota
I had switch out my stock lifters to 3g lifters and probably bent some valves. did a compression test and leak down test. Compression was 90-100-110-90 hot engine and leak down test shows leak from the intake, and I'm sure the exhaust side. None from the piston rings, so I'm pretty sure it's bent valves. The block and head is @ 85k and is all stock.

What should I do from here? I'm still gonna plan on taking out the head and see. Should I buy a used good condition head, or rebuilt the stock head?

How would I test if the a use or rebuilt head I buy is in good condition, no leaks?

Thanks.
 
The lifters probably had nothing to do w your bent valves unless they were fully loaded in which case you should have also bent exh valves.
Cam and crank out of phase due to incorrect timing belt installation, is probably the cause.

Pull head and check all of them use your same core for rebuild after it has been properly check by machine shop.

You dont know on a used head what you are getting and you should do a valve job on it anyways.
 
The lifters probably had nothing to do w your bent valves unless they were fully loaded in which case you should have also bent exh valves.
Cam and crank out of phase due to incorrect timing belt installation, is probably the cause.

Pull head and check all of them use your same core for rebuild after it has been properly check by machine shop.

You dont know on a used head what you are getting and you should do a valve job on it anyways.

Timing belt should be dead on. I'm not sure how it can be out of phase but will check into it. All block, head, crank, oil and BS sprocket are TDC/align before belt was taking out. So by putting it all back together shouldn't be out of phase.

When the head was out, I did look at the valves and some were open very little at the bottom at least four valves leak doing a water test but then I still put the head on. But then why did it loose compression on all cylinder?

Did timing at 5-7* BTDC. I will redo a timing belt check just to make sure I didn't skip anything.

When it's set to 5* BTDC, it'll want to die and anything below will definately gets worse even down to engine shaking.
 

You aren't 100% unless you went and looked. Did you install new lifters but didn't bleed them down? Wondering why you mentioned this. You also had the head off but some valves weren't closing? Why did you install it? I'm confused what's going on here.
 
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You aren't 100% unless you went and looked. Did you install new lifters but didn't bleed them down? Wondering why you mentioned this. You also had the head off but some valves weren't closing? Why did you install it? I'm confused what's going on here.

Well before I install some used 3g lifters, compression was okay 150-150-150-140, then after the lifters, I just assume it's because faulty installation on the lifters gave me bent valves even though I bled all of them according to vfaq.

Looking under the head when the head was out, I can see four valves open very very tiny.

Brand new felpro HG but still air was coming out of other sp wells when leak test. But when I did the cylinder leak down test, all cylinder weren't even over 20% leak. They were around 15%-20% leak only. This is what I did, set the gauge to 0/set postition and install the the hose to the compressor and whatever % it reads, is leaking. Bump up the pressure and I can hear more air hissing from the intake and exhaust side but not from the oil cap or dip stick. So I'm pretty sure it's valves or valves seals.
 
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The new HLAs , did you bleed them down before the install? if not they may crack the valve off the seat.

Also when you installed the HLAs, how did you install them? cheater method with the cams still bolted in? Or did you drop the timing belt and remove the cams?
 
If you bled the lifters down nothing should've happened. Sounds more like a bad tbelt install. Did you go look? I'm still confused. You said you plan on pulling the head but then you said you looked under it. Give us a timeline please.
 
The new HLAs , did you bleed them down before the install? if not they may crack the valve off the seat.

Also when you installed the HLAs, how did you install them? cheater method with the cams still bolted in? Or did you drop the timing belt and remove the cams?

Well first I took the head off to install new HG, then I took the cams off then install new seals and lifters. First, I prime all oil out of the lifters making sure the aren't any oil left and was able to prime the lifters by hand without any oil in there, then reinstall the lifters, torque/bolt both cams back on then redid my timing belt. And while the head was out, I kinda look over the valve and notice a little bit of clearence opening valve on the bottom of head.

If you bled the lifters down nothing should've happened. Sounds more like a bad tbelt install. Did you go look? I'm still confused. You said you plan on pulling the head but then you said you looked under it. Give us a timeline please.

Yes, I will recheck the timing belt, timing and make sure it didn't skip or anything. What if it did? Will bent valves still occur? I did forget to tdc when doing the leak down test and I will do that also just to be clear.
 
Sounds like when you pulled the head you bent the valves. When you started you rotated the engine so all the time marks were at TDC.

Before you lifted the head off the crank moved or the cam.

This started beacuse you changed the HG, so you blew the HG..Did you check the head for warp?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

Pop the head off again, remove the cams do this...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/420313-how-fluid-test-4g63-cylinder-head.html
 
Sounds like when you pulled the head you bent the valves. When you started you rotated the engine so all the time marks were at TDC.

Before you lifted the head off the crank moved or the cam.

This started beacuse you changed the HG, so you blew the HG..Did you check the head for warp?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

Pop the head off again, remove the cams do this...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/420313-how-fluid-test-4g63-cylinder-head.html

Okay, before I put the head back on, I did the water test in the followers, but I didn't know I have to take of the camshaft so the valves will close. I sort of test it with the cams on so I guess when I have it out, I can surely do that. a few valves were leaking water with the cams on.

Thanks for all the help and will try to keep you guys posted.
 
REPEAT: Read post #2 and everyone is telling you the same thing even if by this time it really does not matter the damage is done, if you are not 100% sure of what you are doing dont try it again without some help.
If you blew the head gasket first or after you got more problems and you should have head check.
 
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