Bent Valves, what should I do?

[TSI from Hell]

Gooday!

Aright, so my 1g is surrounded by snow at the present time, and even thought I always take the snow off of it, I just hate having it sitting there and possibly rotting, so since I have no car on the road to bring me to work anymore, I thought about fixing it asap.

The problem with the car right now is 1st and foremost that the previous owner made an attempt to change the head and did not set the cams to top dead center, thus resulting to bent valves. 2nd is that he tried to use some kind of silicone to fix some exhaust manifold leaks, yes , silicone. WTF 3rd is basically the wiring harness that’s all messed up.

My question is basically as followed: Should I (A) bring it to my mechanic to fix it with the parts he provides me? Or (B) swap the head for one in working conditions + have him do a full rebuilt and all maintenance? Or (C) swap the entire longblock for one in good working condition?

Please take into consideration that I’m only 21yrs old and am not rich… at all.
I daily commute about 20 miles to work 5 days a week and need something somewhat reliable, by somewhat I mean that I know DSM’s has some reliability issues but I am still willing to put money into it since It’ll be my project car in the near future or whenever I have the funds… I figured it’s either I pay $600 - $1,500 to fix a car I already have and love to death or resort to buying a POS Honda or somesh*t, which would be a shame.

I’d like to know what kind of labor time are we talking about for (A), (B) and (C).
Also which would be more reliable and cost efficient?

The Car is an early 1992 Eagle Talon TSI all wheel drive w/ auto Trans.

Thanks a lot for your inputs,

Jonatan

 

[1twistdtalon]

it all comes down to you. And how much you want to spend. Can you do the work your self? You will have some good money tied up into it of you take it to a shop around here shop time is 80$ an hour. A friend took his car to have the hg replaced here and it cost in the 1200$ range. depending on how much the head work cost. It all comes down to you.

As far as reliability its all in the maitnance . I have a 52 mile round trip commute daily and my car has not had any issues. If you frequently check hoses,belts'fluides an ect... You should have minimal issues . Given you have your car tuned correctly and don't rod the crap out of it.

 

[964G63TGST]

If i was you, i would get a used 6 bolt long block. You can pick them up $400 and up. It may cost you more to try and fix your old motor..

 

[92_6bolt_1290]

if you can do most of the work yourself then you might want to take the head off youreslf(and use ziplock bags to identify where bolts go), go to your local auto parts store and pick up a valve spring compressor, take the valves, springs etc off(and label which goes where) then look into new valves and new valve guides. local machine shops will install new guides for upwards of 200 bucks and grind the valves for another 150 or so. the more you can do yourself, the less it will cost in the long run. but if you can't really take the cylinder head off then i would just get a used long block

 

[BogusSVO]

heres what your going to look at with bent valves....
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341218-how-change-valve-guides-4g63t-head.html
also be carfull if/how they surface the head....
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

and why ....
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

also have your springs checked...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341287-how-test-valve-springs.html

some general spring info...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

and a oil port mod you may want to do ....
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html


getting your head rebuilt with new guides and valves, valve job and surface will be about $400

 

[TSI from Hell]

I was thinking about at least removing the cylinder head myself then bring it to a machine shop or mechanic to rebuilt it and assembling it back on the car... It would remove some labor time.

Longblock are hard to find around here, for cheap anyway. Theres those "jdsm" crate engine for like 1,500$ But I'm not really into paying 1,500$ for a so called jdm (domestic) engine.

Im pretty sure I could find a good working condition cylinder head for 200$ - 400$ and just go from there. I'd again pull the head myself, mainwhile bring the new cylinder head to my machine shop for that head oil port mod, check the springs etc; maybe upgrade to 3g lifters, 264/272 cams and slighly upgraded valves springs. I don't think this would cost me an arm while still giving me enough flow for "as per upgrade path" complete stage one with a MHI EVOIII turbo and supporting mod's.

Would it be bad or un-efficient to run 3g lifters, 264/272 cams etc. with the factory 13b turbo?
I don't plane to stick with this turbo for a long time (obviously) but would at least like to get the car up ang running and while the head is off I'd upgrade the internal.

Thanks for your inputs, especially to you BogusSVO, very informative.

 

[vmalave30]

what i would do is check if the piston is still good if so put in a new head, second if the wiring harness is bad i may have to see if one of my friends has one and i can see what he wants for it or i can give you his info so you then can talk to him here in the forms for that i will PM you ok so look out for a PM from me with his member name ok, and or just add him as one of you friends. check your pm ok