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What race gas is everyone running?

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When you say we what shop do you work for? I have been leaning toward c16, i do daily drive my car but no emissions tests needed I'm still registered In washington :)

I use my wide band in the front o2 position and have found it does die 25% faster due to the heat cycling. But i don't mind.

ForcePower Motorsports.

Vid will give you a little more insight.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZA6fEYyoio]ForcePower "BlackBird" 2012 season - Canada's Quickest & Fastest 1G DSM - YouTube[/ame]


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The downside of E85 is that the mix varies with the season at most pumps.

Here in Colorado an E85 test kit is a must have if you get you E85 any where other than Hill Petroleum.

They don't have off season blends, it's E85 all year round (proven time and time again by actual testing).

All of the commercial stations will range from E70 to E85 depending on the time of the year.

Hal
 
I can't find it right now. C16 on average is around $10/gallon (or about $2.64/Liter) at 118 Octane.

The Mark 5 is around $2.15-$2.25/Liter @ 114 Octane.
Can't find much info on Mark 6 honestly.

Either of the two should honestly suit you depending on what your power goals are. I can't say I have too much experience with leaded fuels.

Where is c16 $10/gallon? Current rate for c16 is over $100 for a 5 gallon jug.


I currently run Klotz 118 because of that. I gave it try last season and it tunes out identical to c16 and is about $30 less per 5 gallons.
 
^^ Do you know if that gas is leaded or not. We only have one place on island to get race gas and they either have unleaded 100 oct which isn't cutting it for me anymore. Or they have 110 leaded which I like but has killed my wideband o2 sensor a few times already and I'm not into that.
 
Where is c16 $10/gallon? Current rate for c16 is over $100 for a 5 gallon jug.


I currently run Klotz 118 because of that. I gave it try last season and it tunes out identical to c16 and is about $30 less per 5 gallons.

Tracks that buy in bulk quantity. I've been to a few around the country actually. Otherwise, yes its much closer to $20 a gallon.
 
Definitly like Q16 over C16.. Solid airfuels and car runs noticeably better over C16. Stock O2 sensors take a chit real quick if I have one in, but the WB sensor holds good all season. I pay $89 per 5 gallon, but chalk it up as the price of racing.

I'd definitly like to see what the FTW fuels are about. Lots of big name Honda guys breaking records with that stuff. Chris Miller got the right idea......
 
Q16 is one of the hottest fuels on the market- it's expensive but it's consistent. You just need to be aware of it's corrosive nature if you store the car for an extended period of time.

I carried a Klotz sponsorship over the last 6 years of my MX career and still bought VP 110 locally for less money than the fuel Klotz wanted me to use. I ran their decals and premix oils but couldn't afford their fuel for all that it was. Most of the expense from the Klotz fuel came from shipping as availability in my area was poor.

For not much more than what Klotz wanted for a 5-gallon can of their basic leaded race fuel I could buy 5 gallons of VP MR2 (now MRX01) which was an oxygenated fuel developed specifically for two-stroke race bikes. The MR2 was an amazing fuel for the time- it covered up gray areas in tuning, and made a stock bike outrun a modded bike just by running the better fuel....and the exhaust smell when mixed with my Klotz R50 oil was amazing. :D


I can recall some of the faster guys in my class back in the day running a fuel called Fass Gass. Stuff was insane- made the exhaust smell like burnt rubber and burned the shit out of your eyes....and of course they were all sandbaggers so I had to line up behind them in the staging area with their exhaust blowing directly into my helmet while waiting to get sent to the gate. It seemed like the guys who rode for F&S Suzuki of Dayton, OH all ran Fass Gass so it must've been some in-house fuel deal for them. Pretty sure Fass Gass isn't around anymore, and I know F&S Suzuki is done-for.

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You guys need to explain more in detail "extended periods of time" and the problems your having with the Q16.

I let my car sit 4-5 months at a time with a full tank of q16 and have not had a problem with corrosion or other issues you guys are claiming. I top the tank off when I park the car at the end of the season and keep it topped off if I can remember. If not it only takes a little bit of fuel after the 4-5 month span. And a little bit is only like an 1/8 of a gallon. Also havent seen any issue with my injectors or fuel filter. The tune on the same tank after sitting for a few months is still the same as I parked it.
 
You guys need to explain more in detail "extended periods of time" and the problems your having with the Q16.
Some early reports said it would dry out rubber fuel system components quicker than E85 or M1, although I did read a while ago that VP is now adding a corrosion inhibitor to the Q16 and other oxygenated fuels so I'm not sure how much those early reports now apply. Although, just to be on the safe side you may want to drain your fuel system if the car's going to sit longer than a few weeks.
 
Some early reports said it would dry out rubber fuel system components quicker than E85 or M1, although I did read a while ago that VP is now adding a corrosion inhibitor to the Q16 and other oxygenated fuels so I'm not sure how much those early reports now apply. Although, just to be on the safe side you may want to drain your fuel system if the car's going to sit longer than a few weeks.

I pull the filter after the 4-5 month period and no signs of that. The filter still looks clean and so is the pump.

Not to say its slowly happening and its not so visible.
 
You guys need to explain more in detail "extended periods of time" and the problems your having with the Q16.

I let my car sit 4-5 months at a time with a full tank of q16 and have not had a problem with corrosion or other issues you guys are claiming. I top the tank off when I park the car at the end of the season and keep it topped off if I can remember. If not it only takes a little bit of fuel after the 4-5 month span. And a little bit is only like an 1/8 of a gallon. Also havent seen any issue with my injectors or fuel filter. The tune on the same tank after sitting for a few months is still the same as I parked it.

Your comment is valid for some people, it seems to be a "hit or miss" type situation. I have seen an equal amount of people have no problems as opposed to people that do.

If my memory serves me (don't have a drum in stock right now) even VP notes on the drum not to store it in the car for extended periods. Perhaps your dry environment in Nevada helps out. I don't profess to be a fuel expert, just try to take as many precautions as we can to have the best fuel for each run.

We buy C16 and Q16 in 45 gallon drums and we definitely see the fuel dropping off toward the end of each drum with both fuels. It may not be a lot, but enough to necessitate backing-off the tune a little.
 
Your comment is valid for some people, it seems to be a "hit or miss" type situation. I have seen an equal amount of people have no problems as opposed to people that do.

If my memory serves me (don't have a drum in stock right now) even VP notes on the drum not to store it in the car for extended periods. Perhaps your dry environment in Nevada helps out. I don't profess to be a fuel expert, just try to take as many precautions as we can to have the best fuel for each run.

We buy C16 and Q16 in 45 gallon drums and we definitely see the fuel dropping off toward the end of each drum with both fuels. It may not be a lot, but enough to necessitate backing-off the tune a little.

You know thats a good point. I forgot about how dry it is here. Our humidity is always so low. If its like E85 where it attracts water, there could be your corrosive material. Its might not be the fuel at all, just what it attracts.

I do only buy 5 gallons at a time. So that there is a difference that might make a tune change. That big ole barrel sitting there collecting what ever it can.

Also brings up the fact you should only buy the amount of E85 you plan to use and not store the rest. Might be ok if the drum is full and sealed but not so good when half full. Changes the mix

The problem with Q16, VP Import, FTW, and other oxygenated fuels is that it's not compatible with certain injectors. (i.e. 2150s)

Ya very crappy for us guys that like to make big power on just race gas. For me its forcing me to decide if I need to add another rail or make the switch over to an ethanol based fuel.
 
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