what oil should i use [Merged 2-7]

[dunndilly]

As this compilation of threads illustrates,

IT DOESN'T REALLY MATTER WHAT OIL YOU USE.​

It's the twenty-first century. Metallurgy and lubrication science have both taken such astounding leaps over the last fifty years that virtually all the once-true tales of oils and preferences are obsolete.
If you're seriously interested in what goes into, why, how and how much oil, check http://bobistheoilguy.com/



what oil should i use for a 90talon tsi awd during the winter?

 

[rebuilt65]

:laugh: :laugh: I just can't stop laughing today. There is nothing really wrong with true good Mobil 1 synthetic. Porsche 911 turbos come with it from the factory. Hoever, on my high mileage car 126,xxx i us pretty much anybody's heavy weight for summer, 20W-50 and when I live in the Co. US, for winter 10w-40. I know they are a little thick, but so far so good and I've been doing this for 54,000 + milres and 6 years.

best regards, and you guys are funny as hell today!:laugh:

 

[doug]

I agree that there's nothing wrong with Mobil1. I was just trying to say that just because whatever car comes with it from the factory, that doesn't mean dick. If Amsoil or Royal Purple or whoever else was as big a company as Mobil and could afford to work out some corporate agreement with a major car manufacturer, there would be factory cars with their stuff in them too. It's all about the money-- I'd be willing to bet that Mobil made a very attractive offer to be able to say "Hey, our oil comes stock in (fill in the blank performance car)." It's the same thing as Tylenol being able to say "The one hospitals use most." Tylenol underbid everyone else by so much to get that contract just in order to be able to make those claims on TV, implying that their pill is better. It's not-- it's just cheaper for the hospitals.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by AlecW81
It's only the OEM Oil for Corvettes, Vipers, AMG, Aston Martin, the Evolution, etc... I guess my mechanic was just talking out of his ass then.

Yeh, and Tylenol is the analgesic more hospitals use... BECAUSE THEY'RE COMPENSATED TO. They either get it free, cheaper than anything else, or are given other "goodies" to make it worthwhile. Meanwhile, Mobil and McNeil get to tell the consumer world (aka: suckers) that "Gee, Almost Everybody Uses Our Swell Stuff, You Should Too Or You're Inferior".

Differences in modern oils just don't matter that much. And if you're only running them 3,000 miles anyway, you're never using the oil. If it's got an API SH-CE rating, it's the best lube you'll ever see on a shelf. And much more than sufficient to run in a car engine.

America. Land of the Free (after manufacturer's mail-in rebate).

 

[adam355]

Or is it not really a big deal? If its not I'll just have a shop do it for 20 bucks. Otherwise I wanna do it myself so I can get the right kind.

 

[out there]

i use mobil 1 myself, switching amsoil my next change. i use bosch filters because they're supposed to be the best available.
there are several discussions about this, such as:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9140&highlight=what+kind+oil+use
the search button is your friend, it doesn't bite

 

[Defiant]

Brand doesn't matter, API service rating does. When DSMs were designed, the highest available to consumers was SG. Oil has since come up to SL, and those aren't just random ratings.

If you want to go to a fancy "high mileage engine" oil, or a synthetic, all it'll hurt is your wallet. But it won't hurt your engine to stay with "normal" oils. Where you are, the primary concern will be a low-viscosity for cold starting (unless you run a block heater).

 

[my95tsi]

i use mobil 1 synthetic 10w30. Itste best oil out there. Talk to any mechanic and they'll tell you the same. Amsoil is also good but i have no experience with it and no desire to change. But synthetic is a huge difference from normal oil.

 

[805eclipse]

just rebuilt my head and wanna know what is the best oil to use for 1st get eclipses?

 

[greeneclipse]

any 10w-30 full synthetic

 

[13secGST]

Yeh...I like Mobil 1, I used the Valvoline Synthetic once...but the Mobil 1 just seems to be better.

Also...where in 805 are you at?

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

Mobile one is what I use.

 

[ProjectTalon130]

i've heard from many that Mobil 1 on these cars makes their lifter tick pretty bad, i use 10W30 Amsoil and it ticks for a minute or less when completely cold then its smooth and quiet. I'm sure any synthetic is fine though...just my .02 cents.

 

[DSM007]

Mobil1 20w-50w full synthetic for the past 4 years.....beat the shit out of it everyday......daily driven only car....enough said.

 

[DSMSpyder99]

Mobil 1 10-30W i thinking about going 5-30W in spring

 

[Defiant]

Any oil you prefer. I think synthetics are a waste of money in street cars, especially with what's being sold for motor oil these days. But if you don't mind paying for them, they sure won't hurt anything (you may get some minor leakage); I just think it's overkill.
Also, I run oil at least 5000 miles between changes.

 

[13secGST]

Damn Defiant...your funny. 87 octane, regular oil, 5000 miles between changes...ehh whatever, sure it all works, but is it really good for the car?

I change my synthetic every 2500 or sooner depending on how it looks since I do drive the car really hard. But yeh, I've seen some college studies which show that normally after about 2500miles the acidity of the oil starts to increase rapidly and it starts to loose more of its original lubricating properties.

But then, you don't drive you car very hard (Defiant) so it really doesn't make so much difference.

 

[805eclipse]

thanks for the info guys seems mobile 1 is what most everyone uses.. ill try that.. and i live in newbury park. ventura county.

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

Well I think this will be the first one I disagree with defiant. Other than my spun rod bearing from my over rev, I truely believe that the mobile one kept it together for this long. When I took the pan off, the iside of the motor was immaculant. I also never had ANY leakage.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by 13secGST
Damn Defiant...your funny. 87 octane, regular oil, 5000 miles between changes...ehh whatever, sure it all works, but is it really good for the car?

Well, the Datsun 2000 is happy at over a quarter-million miles. The 200SX Turbo was doing fine at 170K, when it pulled an exhaust manifold stud. The '94 AWD is spiffy at 130K. The '95 is still a kid at 80K. So I guess the cars do okay with it.

I change my synthetic every 2500 or sooner depending on how it looks since I do drive the car really hard.

I'm gonna run a garden hose from my house to yours. :laugh:

But yeh, I've seen some college studies which show that normally after about 2500miles the acidity of the oil starts to increase rapidly and it starts to loose more of its original lubricating properties.

I only have first-hand, empirical studies.

But then, you don't drive you car very hard (Defiant) so it really doesn't make so much difference.

Well, I don't do "launches", and I do double-clutch. But otherwise, I get on it fairly often, and once I'm on the road, it's seldom.... well, let's not do numbers, but it's not slow. I also don't warm the cars up, but I do take it easy on them until the gauges are where they like to run. I've never spun a bearing, never broken a transmission, and never blown a clutch. It's not so much being "easy" on the car, as respecting it and being aware of what things are doing in there.... and what sort of things they don't like. I don't wind-out the '95, there's not enough there from the T-25 to bother with more than 6K rpm. I'll occasionally run the '94 to redline.

Just for trivia: CHP now runs 8,000 miles between oil changes, on dino. And none of those guys are driving cars they have to pay for.

 

[13secGST]

Yeh...I wasn't saying your were wrong Defiant...I was just seeing that you seem to do everything different...and you are "defiant" of the ways things are normally done. Yet, it works...and it works fine, and you have no problems. Thats awesome...I just don't have the balls to be that "defiant"...haha

 

[me612]

from what i've HEARD, running synthetic on a higher mile engine that has never ran synthetic before can cause leaks. Sertain little build-ups that have accumulated in different parts of the engine are actually sealing up little parts here and there. and if you suddenly start running synthetic, it can get in those smaller areas and clean out those build-ups, and then you get leaks poppin up everywhere. I have no first hand experience, but also if you wanna know more about oil stuff, go to vfaq, and they gotta link under the MISC heading called OIL BIBLE. good info in there.

 

[Mike1992]

My cars burns alot of oil, as of right now im adding a whole quart about every 400 miles. I started off with Castrol GTX 10w-30 and having been adding Mobile 1 Semi-Synthetic 5w-30. What weight should I be adding? 145,xxx

 

[paranoidTSi]

Try running 10W-30 weight oil, Mike. This should slow it some then find out what it causing it to burn it at such a high rate.

As for the orignal topic, just use the recommended...if it gets over 100 or so degrees and it doesn't freeze then use 10W-30..if it does get fairly cold where you are at and never gets to the 100 degree range then just use 5W-30.

 

[NOSNUSE]

America. Land of the Free (after manufacturer's mail-in rebate).

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

For the record the W in 10W 30 or 5W 30 doesn't stand for weight it stands for winter.
Royal Purple makes a good product but for the price, you would be better off using Mobil or Castrol it doesn't really matter after the first 200 miles or so it all turns out the same.

 

[Eliminat0r]

Try running 10W-30 weight oil, Mike. This should slow it some then find out what it causing it to burn it at such a high rate.

As for the orignal topic, just use the recommended...if it gets over 100 or so degrees and it doesn't freeze then use 10W-30..if it does get fairly cold where you are at and never gets to the 100 degree range then just use 5W-30.

umm no 30 is the viscosity rating which means they both start to lose power at the same temp so if it gets over 100 degrees where you live you should think about a 10w40 or 15-50 etc.. you got the first part right though if it gets really cold use a thinner oil, which will flow better especially on those cold startups. I use 10-30 in the summer as it rarely gets to 100 in michigan and 5-30 in the winter for when we get freezing temps.