2G What Freon do we buy for our A/C

[bo0st2]

Does it have to be a specific type? Trying to recharge the A/C

 

[Mahreeoh17]

Most modern cars before mid 2010s took R-134 Freon.

 

[bo0st2]

Most modern cars before mid 2010s took R-134 Freon.

Thanks! Something like this should work then?

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

 

[Sirius1995]

Remember, You also have to pull vacuum to the system and if lines been open a while, I'd add some ac system oil and leak detection dye too

 

[CKOPOCT]

I have used freon with dye and leak stop before in a pinch to get me through, but I don't recommend relying on it. Certainly put freon leaded with dye into the sysyem so you can find the leak though.

@Sirius1995 is right with pulling the system into a vacuum. If the system has been leaking for a while and/or the air isn't blowing cold, then it's likely you have outside air (and moisture) in the system. The receiver/dryerwill take care of some of that, but the moisture in the system can cause all sorts of problems (erosion, crystalizing damage, acidic environment...). Pulling a vacuum not only checks for leaks, a vacuum lowers the boiling temp of water (just like pressure raises it). Once leaks are fixed and the receiver/dryer is replaced, drawing into a vacuum and leaving it there boils off and removes moisture from the system. It's the right way to fix a low freon issue.

 

[Sirius1995]

I have used freon with dye and leak stop before in a pinch to get me through, but I don't recommend relying on it. Certainly put freon leaded with dye into the sysyem so you can find the leak though.

@Sirius1995 is right with pulling the system into a vacuum. If the system has been leaking for a while and/or the air isn't blowing cold, then it's likely you have outside air (and moisture) in the system. The receiver/dryerwill take care of some of that, but the moisture in the system can cause all sorts of problems (erosion, crystalizing damage, acidic environment...). Pulling a vacuum not only checks for leaks, a vacuum lowers the boiling temp of water (just like pressure raises it). Once leaks are fixed and the receiver/dryer is replaced, drawing into a vacuum and leaving it there boils off and removes moisture from the system. It's the right way to fix a low freon issue.

This was really well worded, better than in my old automotive school books

 

[chrysler kid]

if you buy r134a refrigerant on ebay its can come labeled as envirosafe and flammable. its technically propane.

I have run propane in a r134 system and it cools much faster than r134.

you can also run r12, it cools quicker like propane but is not flammable

you should not run 1234yf in your system as it has a higher operating pressure. you can convert a 1234yf system to run on 134a, the 134a cools better than the 1234yf

you can also run computer air duster in the ac system, but its typically not as cost effective as propane.

but yeah you want to run r134a

 

[CKOPOCT]

What about seal compatibility between r12, r134a, and propane? Not that running propane is a wise choice imo. A propane leak around a hot engine... I like the explosions to happen inside the combustion chamber.

I also thought that the r134a systems were designed to run at a higher pressure than r12, so r12 isn't compatable with r134a.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

More info here:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-1995-r12-or-r134a-refrigerant-from-factory.543147/

 

[CKOPOCT]

Thanks, Marty. Kinda confirms what I remember about non-compatability between the two refrigerants (particularly the oils).

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

A good flush of the complete system to get the R12 oil out is good for it. I flushed my 1994 Caprice system, installed new components as needed, pulled a vacuum on it and refilled her. She was ice cold.

 

[chrysler kid]

What about seal compatibility between r12, r134a, and propane? Not that running propane is a wise choice imo. A propane leak around a hot engine... I like the explosions to happen inside the combustion chamber.

I also thought that the r134a systems were designed to run at a higher pressure than r12, so r12 isn't compatable with r134a.

r12 runs at lower pressures like propane. typically best operating range is 40psi low side. the compressor uses the oil, not the refrigerant. in the old days when r12 was more common in cars you could just refill the r12 system with 134a. I never bothered to switch the oil out, and never suffered any consequences from it

1234yf is also flammable.

im not saying you should run propane, but most refrigerators and small appliances already run it for their refrigerant systems. my comment was more based towards caution if you buy r134 online or from ebay

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

If you add R134 Pag oil to an old R12 system that still has some R12 oil in it, it will turn the liquid into a brown milkshake. Ask me how I know. I can see it in the site glass of my receiver dryer on my old 67 Camaro.
Now I need to flush the complete system and put in a new dryer, as it is full of the crap. Just my experiences if you don't flush your system first.

 

[CKOPOCT]

Thanks for the explanation. My last professional working with a/c systems was back in the 90s at the changeover, so I appreciate any info I can get to add to/remind me of things.

 

[CarlosFley]

Remember, You also have to pull vacuum to the system and if lines been open a while, I'd add some ac system oil and leak detection dye too

Not trying to hijack, just legit question. The lines on my car were open for who knows how long and now I got around to replacing all the seals and dryer to get ready to charge it. My question is should I add some PAG46 in along with the R134 in my 2G? I have no way of knowing if the existing compressor has any oil but I would guess it does. Do you recommend adding some anyway? Pulling a vacuum does nothing to evaporate the existing oil right?

 

[CrackedDSM]

There are compressor oils that are compatible with both R12 and R134a oils. I can't remember the name, I think synthetic ester oil is one of them, but yeah.

 

[CarlosFley]

There are compressor oils that are compatible with both R12 and R134a oils. I can't remember the name, I think synthetic ester oil is one of them, but yeah.

I’ve got the right oil, PAG46 is fine cuz my system is R134, I just need to know how much I should add if any, to a compressor that has been on the engine for maybe years but was disconnected

 

[CrackedDSM]

I’ve got the right oil, PAG46 is fine cuz my system is R134, I just need to know how much I should add if any, to a compressor that has been on the engine for maybe years but was disconnected

Take the compressor off, flush the hell out of it. Maybe flush the condenser too then just add the amount the car calls for. Can’t remember what 2Gs call for.

 

[CarlosFley]

Take the compressor off, flush the hell out of it. Maybe flush the condenser too then just add the amount the car calls for. Can’t remember what 2Gs call for.

I was trying to avoid having to remove the compressor as I just finished installing the IM and fuel lines and whatnot. The condenser they say not to flush it but to just replace it instead?

 

[CrackedDSM]

I was trying to avoid having to remove the compressor as I just finished installing the IM and fuel lines and whatnot. The condenser they say not to flush it but to just replace it instead?

Seems like a great idea to me. And you can get the compressor out without taking the IM off. It's not exactly easy or fun, but it's possible.

 

[CarlosFley]

Seems like a great idea to me. And you can get the compressor out without taking the IM off. It's not exactly easy or fun, but it's possible.

*sigh* I may just say screw it and add an ounce or two of oil and see if the system likes it. Cuz like could the oil have any way of getting out? It isn’t a gas for it to just escape like refrigerant, so there has to be some in there

 

[CrackedDSM]

*sigh* I may just say screw it and add an ounce or two of oil and see if the system likes it. Cuz like could the oil have any way of getting out? It isn’t a gas for it to just escape like refrigerant, so there has to be some in there

Oil doesn't evaporate, but it does collect moisture and dirt and everything else.


Leave a jug of oil outside with the cap off for a couple years and tell me how it looks. You can even put a cover over it so water doesn't directly drip into it, and it'll still look horrible. That's inside your A/C system right now. You CAN just throw a couple OZs in it, but good luck to the next guy who has to deal with the after effects of that.


Do it right, do it once. People who break this motto do not last in the DSM world, because a DSM will bring you to your knees every single time you try to just "get it running" or "make it work".

 

[CarlosFley]

Oil doesn't evaporate, but it does collect moisture and dirt and everything else.


Leave a jug of oil outside with the cap off for a couple years and tell me how it looks. You can even put a cover over it so water doesn't directly drip into it, and it'll still look horrible. That's inside your A/C system right now. You CAN just throw a couple OZs in it, but good luck to the next guy who has to deal with the after effects of that.


Do it right, do it once. People who break this motto do not last in the DSM world, because a DSM will bring you to your knees every single time you try to just "get it running" or "make it work".

And just like that you have actually convinced me to do it. Your reasoning makes sense and I didn’t even think about how gunky it can really be. I don’t have an air compressor so I’m just gonna have to use a store bought flush kit, and I may not be able to replace the condenser just yet but hopefully that doesn’t cause me any problems. This damn car has definitely bossed me around already . Thanks man.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Do it right, do it once. People who break this motto do not last in the DSM world, because a DSM will bring you to your knees every single time you try to just "get it running" or "make it work".

God this is such a true statement.