check your ECU for internal damage and obviously all positive side cables and cable ends, make sure battery terminals are not hitting the hood and battery is properly bolted on
+1 on the machine shop route. Without measuring the critical points you are gambling that everything is okay. The extra cost and labor to take care of the head and have it done right is minimal when compared to reassembly of a questionable...
Hopefully the code scan will provide some insight. If not, here's what I recommend. The throttle body, intake plenum and runners may be restricted due to the EGR & PCV inlet causing build up. The EGR delivers exhaust gasses directly from the #4...
So first measure that you'll get ~5V DC to the connector which plugs in to the ECT sensor if yes it's most likely bad sensor but if you wanna check if sensor is bad, you can either back probe terminals when car is running and everything hooked...
You can try if it works with multi meter it's 5V sensor so it varies 0-5V depending on coolant temperature, this is pretty typical part to fail, though couple months sounds too soon but if you do get code for it, it might be bad
Start by replacing ECT, if fuse was blown it's because that fuse is not designed for that much of a current flow and resistance so it will increase amperage over what fuse can handle, and I would not put bigger fuse in it as that might cause...
Sounds like vacuum issue, spray some brake cleaner around intake manifold where it connects to the engine head and the split part and see if idle gets up for a bit, also inspect all vacuum hoses for cracks or cutsIs check engine light on? Are...
I don't know why they hooked both fans together, that's a lot of current needed and I'd start by checking relays and fuses as they probably poppedAnother fan is for engine cooling and another one is just for ac, there's no need for another fan...