what engine do i have?

[blamclep]

I recently bought another AWD dsm Itsa 92 gsx bought it with the engine in it and bad trans. long story short after cleaning and replacing all the stuff it needed while I had the engine out. I finished putting the holset on and tested the compression one the starter was able to be hooked up and it came out 220 on each cyl. with of course 10 to 15 psi differencethe highest being 225 lowest at 210. As I remember the turbo blocks should be at 160 or so and non turbos are higher. Do I have a n/t block someone mistakenly put in stupidly?

I looked it up and the only engines that should have that high psi are the earlier galant blocks. per here.

http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/compression.htm

=> 14 psi maximum difference between cylinders

1G (90-94) T/E/L 1.8L NT engine 2.0L NT engine 2.0L Turbo engine
Compression ratio 9.0:1 9.0:1 7.8:1
Standard compression 185 psi 192 psi 164 psi
Service limit 131 psi 145 psi 121 psi

2G (95-99) T/E 2.0L NT 420A engine 2.0L 4G63 Turbo engine 2.4L NT Spyder engine
Compression ratio 9.8:1 8.5:1 9.5:1
Standard compression 170-225 psi 178 psi 192 psi
Service limit 100 psi 133 psi 146 psi

Galant (89-93) SOHC 8v engine SOHC 16v engine
Compression ratio 8.5:1 9.5:1
Standard compression 178 psi 185 psi
Service limit 125 psi 139 psi

Galant (89-93) DOHC pre-91 NT engine DOHC 92+ NT engine DOHC Turbo engine
Compression ratio 9.0:1 9.8:1 7.8:1
Standard compression 192 psi 220 psi 164 psi
Service limit 137 psi 159 psi 114 psi

so what im sayin is how the heck can I tell what block this thing came out of? I'm of course gonna build a turbo engine eventually but has anyone heard or seen any good resultys from this?

also heres a couple of pictures.

Thanks

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[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

To start off look at the badge on the block up front. Does it still say 4g63

 

[dylnwit]

Can you read the block numbers? I would think it's either someone put higher compression pistons in a 4g63 block, or possibly it's a 2.4 conversion, but I do believe those numbers are defiantly too high for a stock turbo motor. If you can't read the block number, pull the oil pan and take a look.

 

[blamclep]

i could of sworn it said 4g63 ill look again BRB

 

[blamclep]

I looked and cant see right now but its gotta be a 4g63. A 2.4l conversion? are you talking about a stroker build? if so that isnt possible.. thE kid really riced this thing out and he wouldnt of built no stroker but if your talking about a 2.4L NT Spyder engine then maybe but no way of telling that without getting that cast number off of it right? I have a sptder 7 bolt sitting in the garage but this is a 6 bolt 4g63.

 

[DSM1G90]

By the right side of No.1 exhaust port, there should be a flat surface where the type of block and serial number would be stamped from the factory. Dig through the grease to find this one.

 

[dsm-onster]

Get a maglite or other bright, lensing flashlight and pull the spark plugs. Look in the cylinders. You should see an upside down 63DT. If you see an upside down 63D, then you have an n/t motor. If you see nothing then you don't have stock pistons, or Lots 'n lots o' carbon buildup.

 

[dylnwit]

*edit* Try dsm-onster's suggestion first before pulling stuff apart.
I was thinking more like a g4cs (6 bolt 2.4L, like the 4g64 from the spyder). If it's already out, pulling the oil pan and looking should be easy. If he was ricing it out, then he might have tried to do a larger turbo with high boost, and tore it up, and then put in the 2.4 so he could brag about it.

 

[e85_4g63]

Looks like a 4g63.

 

[blamclep]

couldnt make out any numbers on the flat badge under the no 1 cyl. whats inside the oil pan? the engines already in.

 

[blamclep]

this flat area. btw this pic is of a hyundai 2.4

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plus mine did have all the extra bolt holes

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?? dont know ill have to see tomm if i can see anyextra numbers on the block

 

[SuperDave007]

Did you happen to let the engine warm up, as in take it for a drive for 10 mins and then do a compression test?

http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/compression.htm

"How To:

1. Before you begin, make sure the battery is fully charged. Take it for a good hard drive. 5 minutes of idling won't cut it."

 

[Acebankai]

Did you happen to let the engine warm up, as in take it for a drive for 10 mins and then do a compression test?

http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/compression.htm

"How To:

1. Before you begin, make sure the battery is fully charged. Take it for a good hard drive. 5 minutes of idling won’t cut it."

yeah if you have it running theres going to be trapped air in your combustion chamber so of course your compression is going to be alot higher then normal.

 

[DSM1G90]

That's the G4JS block for the Hyundai .. Don't know if the block size would be on the transmission side as does the 4G64 block... One has to look behind the EXH manifold to maybe see what the block is on the flat part of the block ..

sorry, was thinking of the 4G37 with that flat part by No.1 exhaust to find what kind of block identification.

DSM

 

[SuperDave007]

yeah if you have it running theres going to be trapped air in your combustion chamber so of course your compression is going to be alot higher then normal.

What are you talking about?

I'm talking about going and driving the car for about 10 mins. Then park the car, turn it off, then do a compression check.

From what he posted it sounded like it tried doing a compression with the motor on the engine stand or on a non starting engine.

You do not do a compression check when the engine is cold.

 

[MidShipCivic]

That's the G4JS block for the Hyundai .. Don't know if the block size would be on the transmission side as does the 4G64 block... One has to look behind the EXH manifold to maybe see what the block is on the flat part of the block ..

sorry, was thinking of the 4G37 with that flat part by No.1 exhaust to find what kind of block identification.

DSM

G4JS is a 2.4L out of 99 - 2000 hyundai and their transmissions are on the drivers side so that couldn't be one.

You do not do a compression check when the engine is cold.

You can it shows little difference when warm.

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Take WD40 and a steel brush to it. It will show. It's right there under the header to the right like in that pic it's there . You can't take distant pics of the engine it's not easy to say anything when there is no lighting an your engine is painted gloss black let me see the oil pan right under the crank pulley and the oil pump.

To me right now it looks like a 7 bolt.

 

[SuperDave007]

You can it shows little difference when warm.

Are you f,ing nuts.

120 to 130 psi when engine is cold.... 175 to 180 when warm... that is a big difference.

Yes both sets of numbers are within the 10% range, a warm motor will better seat the rings, which will give you accurate numbers.

And even if it did show little difference, it is still showing a difference. Why the hell would you want any difference then what is should be showing?

Look at any compression test guide and it will tell you to have the engine warm.

I don't care what you do or have done on your car. That is the correct way to do this.

How to Perform a Compression Test on the Engine in a Geo Metro | eHow.com

"Step1
Warm up the engine in the Geo Metro before doing the compression test. The battery will need to spin the engine several times so be sure that it is in good condition. An engine compression test on a cold engine will not give accurate results."

Compression test cold and warm egine: differences - evolutionm.net

Read the first 5 post.

Shall I keep going.

Edit: Here are some more....

Compression test Warm motor vs cold motor - SaturnFans Forums

Compression Testing Correctly and Cold vs Warm engine - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

And this is just a google search of cold vs warm compression test.

The engine is to be warm!

 

[blamclep]

As far as it being warm and driving it. no i didnt drive it it did run for a min. or so. several times. cant drive it untill i get the aluminum radiator and tune the maf t. but all warming up the engine does is help your compression numbers I have good high compression now when its "cold" so i dont think driving it will lower the compression. and i did it the way it says too WOT and such.

 

[blamclep]

You can it shows little difference when warm.


Take WD40 and a steel brush to it. It will show. It's right there under the header to the right like in that pic it's there . You can't take distant pics of the engine it's not easy to say anything when there is no lighting an your engine is painted gloss black let me see the oil pan right under the crank pulley and the oil pump.

To me right now it looks like a 7 bolt.[/QUOTE]

heres the pics of the flat area and the oil pan under the pulleys by the oil pump.

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[cruisintalonawd]

if the oil pan is flat all the way around with no hump by the crank pulley it's a 6 bolt

 

[MidShipCivic]

Are you f,ing nuts.

120 to 130 psi when engine is cold.... 175 to 180 when warm... that is a big difference.

Yes both sets of numbers are within the 10% range, a warm motor will better seat the rings, which will give you accurate numbers.

And even if it did show little difference, it is still showing a difference. Why the hell would you want any difference then what is should be showing?

Look at any compression test guide and it will tell you to have the engine warm.

I don't care what you do or have done on your car. That is the correct way to do this.

How to Perform a Compression Test on the Engine in a Geo Metro | eHow.com

"Step1
Warm up the engine in the Geo Metro before doing the compression test. The battery will need to spin the engine several times so be sure that it is in good condition. An engine compression test on a cold engine will not give accurate results."

Compression test cold and warm egine: differences - evolutionm.net

Read the first 5 post.

Shall I keep going.

Edit: Here are some more....

Compression test Warm motor vs cold motor - SaturnFans Forums

Compression Testing Correctly and Cold vs Warm engine - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

And this is just a google search of cold vs warm compression test.

The engine is to be warm!

Reevaluate yourself it shows little difference which is true. You aren't proving anyone wrong at all.

heres the pics of the flat area and the oil pan under the pulleys by the oil pump.

Looks like it's a Hyundai 6 bolt engine a G4CP before 97, but has a 4g63 turbo head on it since they don't come with such valve covers unless he switched it.

They are 9:1 compression.

Clean the flat spot off.


Did you take the dip stick out for this picture?

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[blamclep]

yes I took it off along with the wastegate ans stuff in the way to clean the surface of the flat area and there nothin there. on the 7 bolt engine layin in my garage its palin as day 4g63 then some other numbers under it.

 

[DSM1G90]

....that pulley could be replaced though being all full of rust like it is...makes you wonder how the rubber ring is that holds the two pieces together...

 

[blamclep]

....that pulley could be replaced though being all full of rust like it is...makes you wonder how the rubber ring is that holds the two pieces together...

that pulley is crap just using it to get it on its feet was gonna buy new shiney ones soon

 

[blamclep]

if the oil pan is flat all the way around with no hump by the crank pulley it's a 6 bolt

Well I know its a 6 bolt it has 6 bolts on the crank.