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What else is needed to run 12's

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i have pretty much the same setup , and act2600. I wanna go to the track this saturday and want 12s so bad (always been very close but... shifting mostly would take me away to touch it. Is it good idea to go with 16" wheel (which im gonna probablly slip very bad at the lunch) or 18" wheel . when i shift from first to second gear all four tires slipped (18") i havent tried with 16" yet. OMG . ( :thumb: act2600) is this going to kill my trany. My shifting is kinda better now then before and i hope i'll be into 12s this week ROFL . I was waiting for the tread of this kind. So more info would help .... thanks guys
 
You must have typed that really fast...

Using 16 inch wheels and a good tire will result in more traction at the launch than an 18 inch wheel with the same tire would (the tires would of course be different sizes). I thought this was obvious, but maybe not. The more sidewall there is the more it will be able to flex, and therefore the tire will be able to hook up better than it otherwise would. A dragster's tires are a good illustration of this concept.

Also, using "Walmart brand" tires will result in a lot more tire spinning than a performance tire would. If you want good times you want good tires.
 
youre probably right, but that is a lot of money for me at this time ..so you would go with 16" anyway...
thats what i thought

thanks
 
OverboostXS said:
:| you need a good driver to run 12's

:thumb: ha! couldnt agree more. The comment about the engine build up is incorrect also. For example, My block has 230,000 miles on it, actually, a little over. The head has 200,000+ on it, all bone stock. my highest cylinder is 110 psi and lowest is like 85 or something. (yes i know im due for a rebuild) but when you look at my time, youd never guess this engine is as tired as it is. Of course weight plays a big factor here too with running 12's
 
gSx_r1der said:
He never said he wanted it to be reliable, yea all those things are nice to have but to run 12's you dont need a maft, or dsmlink or gauges or driveline or suspension. I know a guy(sdturbo on sddsm.org)running a fully built 2.4 stock 1g head scm61 safc zeitronix rc 1000's exhaust,maft(only cause of the 1000's overrunning the stock 2g mass) and thats it. He is putting at least 450 to the ground on race gas, so your telling me this guy cant do it on his setup(12's that is) yea your car wont be the best dd but it can be done easy and not so expensive. To the author of this thread just go to sddsm, register and watch your little brain absorb all the knowledge you need to know. This site has become very know for noobs telling you, you need a dsmlink fpr and pistons when that is not true. Join sddsm.org :dsm:

Yeah ok well you just take your unreliable daily driver and break down on the side of the road everyother week and have that 2 wheel puller tow your car and loose that transfer case from your AWD. Why would you want a DD that breaks down? thats the stupids first line in your post for a Daily Driver. all the mods i listed would keep him in command and control in watching and tuneing the car properly

and for NOOB that i am, i dont know if you realized or not but you registered in OCT 2004 ok, and i registered in OCTOBER 2004. and im def. not a NEWB. if i was a noob i would have said some crap like, get a RFL so your pressure will hold better and just unplug the vaccum line from the WG aculator...yeah!

ohh and your SDDSM.org just do us a favor and keep your post there, and save us the bandwidth from your flame post to other users he wanted info on a 12 setup on a car you CAN DRIVE DAILY!

end of post
 
diamondgst said:
Yeah ok well you just take your unreliable daily driver and break down on the side of the road everyother week and have that 2 wheel puller tow your car and loose that transfer case from your AWD. Why would you want a DD that breaks down? thats the stupids first line in your post for a Daily Driver. all the mods i listed would keep him in command and control in watching and tuneing the car properly

and for NOOB that i am, i dont know if you realized or not but you registered in OCT 2004 ok, and i registered in OCTOBER 2004. and im def. not a NEWB. if i was a noob i would have said some crap like, get a RFL so your pressure will hold better and just unplug the vaccum line from the WG aculator...yeah!

ohh and your SDDSM.org just do us a favor and keep your post there, and save us the bandwidth from your flame post to other users he wanted info on a 12 setup on a car you CAN DRIVE DAILY!

end of post

wrong twice, i said, "he never said anything about a daily driver" so
WTF and as for the rfl thing......well newb since you did just say it I guess you called your self a newb. Just cause we registered the same day doenst mean anything. And no one was flaming a55hole. But now I am. Why dont you go fight your kid brother or something constructive, cause your boring me and I cant beleive I'm still typ.......fuc it nm peace ### :notgood:
 
...I don't understand what the fighting is about.

When you say "a 12 second car" does that mean it runs close to a 12.9 or a 12.0? If it's a high 12 then I don't see how that car couldn't be a daily driver. Just toss on a turbo like the Evo3 16G, some 550 cc or slightly bigger injectors, an S-AFC, mid-size FMIC, stronger clutch (doesn't need to be an ACT 2600) and a few other supporting mods. Then learn how to drive it well, and you should be able to run high 12s, maybe mid 12s if you tune it well enough. Later you can start adding more things like cams if you want, but they shouldn't be necessary. (This is assuming you "splurge" on race gas... which you should do if you're going to the track. I mean, why not?).

If the question was "can a mid-11 second (or low 11-second) car be streetable" I might see some arguments regarding turbo lag and broken parts, and maybe problems with aggressive cams. But we're talking high 12s here. This is familiar ground for many daily driven DSMs. Don't dump the clutch, and shift quickly but smoothly (no need to mash gears) and the drivetrain shouldn't fall apart. Also, the 4G63 internals are supposedly able to hold up to 400 HP. You don't need 400 HP to run 12s, so the motor should hold together just fine. People are cutting excellent 60' times on the stock suspension in an AWD, so that shouldn't be an issue either. As long as all the proper maintenance has been taken care of there shouldn't be any problems.

I won't say that running 12s is easy, but it certainly isn't that difficult.

P.S. I'm scared to recommend DSMLink because of the wrath of sddsm.org :p But seriously, unless you get all the parts used and don't have an extra laptop lying around (thats a big assumption), there really is no reason to not to spend the extra money on DSMLink. The fun extras like the stutterbox make it worth the extra money, and the extra tuning ability will help you reach 12s by tuning more instead of throwing on more parts. But if you're on a budget, many people have run 12s, even low 12s, with the S-AFC/pocketlogger combination.

P.P.S. Since when did the DSMTuners registration date dictate how experienced one may or not be with DSMs? That information only shows the month and year that you joined.
 
Ok even though he IS talking about it being a daily driver. READ the first post FIRST line.
1992awdlaser said:
Basically I want to run 12's and have my car as a daily driver.

now the RFL thing i was refering to a noob that dosnt know squat about how shit works on our cars, and wasts a really loud bov and a weld on fart can such as the RFL, i would never think to put the junk on my car. im currently running my tial with MAFT.

And last i never said that register date tells anything about knowledge, just that you have been here a while read the threads and understand how shit works if you paid any attention. I have been into DSM's for over 4.5 years now, and i by far dont know everything about them. But i do know what i need to and alot more than most others. :tease:
 
diamondgst said:
And last i never said that register date tells anything about knowledge, just that you have been here a while read the threads and understand how shit works if you paid any attention.
You can read the threads on DSMTuners without being a member. :|

Would a moderator please close this thread? It has become a battleground...
 
dont close this thread before this guy gets his info. search bro, pm me if you want more help or even advice. Its not going to hurt to post threads like this but why not just find out who is running those bolt on mods your asking about and pm them and ask them what they think of the product they ordered. Trust me I have pm'd a million people asking them why this for their setup and why that, what they think. Just ask man. Thats what the pm is for, its a "private message"
 
Drive the 20 miles and get the 100 oct...your speeds will pick up!!

yeah i did the drive once(last time i filled up) and man is 100 octane responsive to a tune!!! i was planning to take the car to the track but today and next wed are the last two days of the season and im working so the tune didnt get to see what time it produced and ill have to drive far to get the gas again b/c i wont be able to gas up at the track...
**side note** how many tanks of 100 octane does it take to kill a 3" high flow catco cat? any estimates will be nice... (kind of sound like the tootsie pop owl) .. a one; a two; a threeeeeee

Ok 12's isnt as easy as everyone is making it out to be, but it is realisticaly easy to get there.

thats my point exactly. when i hear 12's daily driven im thinking of a car that will run 12's on the street and track reliably, not jerry rigging your car to run 12's once at the track and hookin it up correctly for daily driving. I know a lot of you can get away with no cat and high octane gas or even unbolted exhaust but i live in CA and the restrictions here suck. (also you have to have a working exhaust/muffler at the track i go to) I ran no cat on my gst the entire time i had it and loved it but the state ref wasnt havin it!!! Anyways folks not tryin to start anything here but when i think of daily drivin 12's (my personal goal for my car) im thinkin of my dsm like it came out of the factory running 12's. I want everything to work in perfect harmony together and handle correctly, hold the power, and run right. Just my $00.02

:talon:
be safe and boost happy!!!
 
With his setup assuming he can drive, High 12's should be no problem. Even without the FMIC it can be done but on pump gas the FMIC would be highly recommended.

DSM Link may be more expensive than other methods and others may have gone fast without it but it still doesn't change the fact that it is by far the best piggy back tuning device on the market for DSM's. It is worth every penny IMO.
 
Edit: Add a Buschur fmic, Shep stage 3 tranny, Act 2600, Act xact flywheel, Autometer air/fuel guage, and Autometer fuel pressure guage.
 
Sorry bud, but you don't need a shep tranny for 12's. That is not a fun tranny in traffic either. Wow.......I read this whole thread: here are my thoughts.


12's daily is not hard, follow the upgrade path......an act 2600 will hold that power just fine. A 2600 is a lil harsh on the pedal assembly and you WILL eventually have to get it fixed because it WILL break. Don't build your tranny!!!!! WAY overkill. Basic bolt on's and a GOOD tune + launch =12's. With dsmlink you can do it with a b16g easy. :thumb:


Oh, and if you plan on going bigger in the future, buy a bigger turbo now........because that 700 dollar 16g will only get you 350 back:notgood:

Goodluck with the build:thumb:
 
black92_tsi_awd said:
I'm running all my smog stuff, except the Cat :)

91 octane is going to limit you, these cars are supposed to run 93 stock...how are you getting away with 91?? 110 isn't available at the tracks in California?

I'm not sure your motor will survive 20psi on 91 oct.
they dont sell 93 at the pump here, so its not really our choice to run 91 over 93. they do sell race gas at the track, but our 91 is like the price of your 93, and probably more expensive, so imagine our race gas price...its all good though, because later this year im going to sit down and have a talk with dermit o'hair (dunno if i got that right), one of my fathers fellow chemists who lives in the uk. his lotus is a pretty well modded 2.2 turbo. he makes his own, unleaded 110+ (he hasn't tested the octane level, but he doesnt really care) gasoline, because he is a chemist. well so is my dad, so ive got just as much access to these chemicals as he does. maybe ill post the formula, assuming this stuff doesnt require permits and stuff to buy.
 
My car went high 12's with a pretty simple setup:

Ported 14b,ported 2g manifold,2.25" pipes/Starquest,2.5 atmosphere dump 02,"3 DP back,Stock 450s,stock FPR,stock unhacked 1g mas,$30 used '93 RX-7 fuel pump. 20psi on Cam 2.

It was my only mode of transport,and was stone reliable for 30,000 miles until I finally bought a daily driver,which is another GVR4 getting a similar setup.

My GVR4 weighed 3550 w/me in it,with stock 130,000 mile suspention and $40 a peice Kelly Chargers. A 1g Talon/Eclipse/Laser is 300lbs or so lighter,a 16g setup with a simple setup should run mid low 12's easily.
 
simple recipe with my experience for 12's
255 walbro pump
ngk wires and plugs
hacked mas with k&n filter
boost gauge
boost controller
safc
turbo back exhaust at least 2.5 inch
race gas
 
I ran 12s fairly easily and still drove it home.

K&n Filter
MBC
S16g
Hacked exhaust
ACT 2600
17psi on CAM2
I ran a 12.9 at 105mph
 
The next time I race, I'll have:
k&n w/ hard intake pipe
uicp
2600
3" turbo back
evo3 o2
ported 2g mani
On pump gas, I should be able to run a 12.

Back when I raced last time, i pulled a 13.8 @ 96 with only a k&n filter, 3" catback and 15 psi with slipping clutch and boost creep in 3rd, so I had to short shift :(
 
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