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dsm_94_4ever

10+ Year Contributor
73
0
Mar 25, 2010
Roseburg, Oregon
Getting ready to buy a new head and im trying to figure out what engine block I have the car is a 94 tsi fwd when I pulled the trans a year ago I noticed that its a 6 bolt engine block by looking at the flywheel.Was looking for stamps on the moter today and the one above the trans were most peoples are is just blank but I do have one in the front it says 4G63
JYI660
does anybody know what ive got here?
 
Well if its the original engine, It should actually be a 7 Bolt.

If it has been swapped or replaced, it it possible to have a 6 bolt. You will know for sure as you said with the flywheel bolts.

There were 7 bolts made from 1992.5-1994 in the 1G's.

So
6 Flywheel bolts- 6 bolt and so on for a 7. Thats how you know for sure.
 
6 bolt/1g has 12mm head bolts/studs, should have the large cross section intake runner.

7bolt/2g has 11mm head bolts/studs, should have the small cross section intake runner.

Some swaps, that you may have is the 6 bolt bottom end with the 2g head, if this is the case the head bolt holes have been or need be reemed for the latger 1g/6bolt head bolts/studs
 
Getting ready to buy a new head and im trying to figure out what engine block I have the car is a 94 tsi fwd when I pulled the trans a year ago I noticed that its a 6 bolt engine block by looking at the flywheel.Was looking for stamps on the moter today and the one above the trans were most peoples are is just blank but I do have one in the front it says 4G63
JYI660
does anybody know what ive got here?

If it has a 6 bolt Flywheel, then is a 6 bolt, if it has 4g63 stump, then it is a 6 bolt 4g63 block, so you need a 1g head.
 
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Just took the head off a couple weaks ago and the head bolts were 12mm just want to make sure when I order this head I get the right one also is there any way to decode these numbers and figure out what it is? Numbers in front are 4G63 JYI660 and yes like I said above theres six bolts that hold the flywheel to the moter.

Bogus were are these larger or smaller intake runners your talking about picture would help.
 
The numbers after 4g63 are irrelevant. All that matters is 1g or 2g. If the flywheel has 6 bolts, then it's a 6-bolt 4g63 and you need a 1g head. You can use a 2g head, but the head stud/bolt holes will need to be enlarged to clear the larger stud/bolt. The 1g head has larger intake ports, but the 2g head is considered an upgrade.

Edit- Confused 7-bolt/6-bolt with 1g/2g. :ohdamn:
 
The numbers after 4g63 are irrelevant. All that matters is 6-bolt or 7-bolt. If the flywheel has 6 bolts, then it's a 6-bolt 4g63 and you need a 6-bolt head. You can use a 7-bolt head, but the head stud/bolt holes will need to be enlarged to clear the larger 6-bolt stud/bolt. The 6-bolt head has larger intake ports, but the 7-bolt head is considered an upgrade.

The 1G heads are all the same. You are referring to 2G 7-Bolt heads.
 
Hey thanks for the pick man yea the head I was running is for sure a 1g.Wow never new there was such a big difference just wish I knew what year car this moter is out of just kinda bugs me that I don't know its got to be early 90's.
 
Well its probaly 91-92, because in order for them to use a 1990 they would have to have switched alot of stuff out. Coil, TB, ECU, Harness etc etc.
1991-1992 engines were exactly the same, they switched to the 1G 7-Bolt in 1992.5.
 
Thanks for all the help guys going to order the head and arp head studs tomarrow what head gasket do you guys think I should run im only running 15 psi on the 14b right now but in the next year or so I plan on running something much bigger with supporting mods of course.I got a friend that has a 240 dynod at 400 wheal horse power and still running stock head gasket and stock head bolts.
 
I found that post already like I said above the vin number is not there not sure why but its just a blank piece of metal where that number should be but I do have the one on the front of the block 4G63 JYI660
 
Look above at service guy looks like there 11mm.

Ok so I just went out to the shop to double check everything before I order my parts and it seams that the head bolts that were in it arent 12mm like I thought there 11mm so now im really confused with this moter is it possible that this is a 1gb 7 bolt moter rebuilt with a 6 bolt crank?

Any help with this would be much appreciated need to order these parts today.

Or is it possible that they had the wrong head bolts in there the 11mm bolts seem to fit snug no play when I pulled them out they were very tight broke one of my ratchets in the process had to use a breaker bar to get them out ratchet wouldn't work.

Not sure if it will help but here's a picture of the crank when I pulled the trans a year ago.
 

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Why don't take some pics and insert them here, We might see something that you don't see.

Take a pic of the the front cover oil pump, take a pic of the top surface block, and take some pics of the rear crank and take some pics of the head bolts that you removed.

7 bolt block has the crank angle sensor in front, at the oil pump, all 6 bolts don't have where to attache them.

Here is a 7 bolt, see where is the crank sensor (post #28).

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/442034-crank-but-no-start.html

Here is a 6 bolt, see there is no crank sensor nor a place to bolt it on.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/446094-na-oil-filter-housing-6-bolt-pics.html
 
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Ok so I just went out and took some more pics and it has no crank sensor by the crank all the pullies are still on my car so I couldn't really get in there to get a picture
 

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You have a stock 6 bolt bottom end.

You have 1G turbo pistons.
You have 12mm head bolts, which take a 10mm hex head driver. Measure the bolt's diameter at the shank, it's 12mm. Here's a picture comparing 6 bolt head bolts (left) to 7 bolt head bolts (right) :

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Ok so I just got my head back from the machine shop cams are out rocker arms are out is there anything I need to do oil wise when I put the cams and rocker arms back in?
 

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Assembly lube everything. I used a high zinc content lube from autozone.

That is if your doing a tear down and it will be without oil pressure while you prime the pump. You should be fine if your just putting the head in but a little extra measure never killed anyone.
 
Make sure to keep the block to head alignment dowels.

Do the oil port mod: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

Clean the HLA's (lifters) in diesel or some other solvent, clean out the solvent, then get some oil through them and lastly, BLEED THEM down. You don't want a HLA to be full of oil upon startup, that can bend valves instantly. Just stick the paper clip down in the lifter body and collapse the HLA all the way down.

Set the cams so the dowels pins on the cam gears are facing upwards. Then rotate the engine to TDC on the number one cylinder. Now you can pop the head on.

That's all I can think of for now but make sure you understand the timing belt installation portion 100% and don't rush it.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...5-timing-belt-tensioning-tips-4g63-turbo.html

I'd like to point out the second paragraph. That tidbit of info will help if you know what it means. It makes timing belts soooo easy once you understand it. Even a caveman can do it!

Instead of playing around with drill bits and other things to make you nervous as hell, just set the tension so that the grenade pin is able to be slid in and out easily with no drag. Torque the bolt down and check the grenade pin again in 30mins+ and see if you can still slide the pin in. If it does, you are golden. And fear not! This ends up being very close to the factory specs outlined in the above link.

Good luck
 
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