Weird problem, alt, battery, ebrake light go on and off..

[RedTurboEclipse]

Well I was driving today and then start to notice the alternator, battery, and ebrake light start to become lit, very dim, but you could see it coming on. Then as I started driving more they went on. Not fully lit because if I pulled the ebrake it would get to the usual brightness. Then at times they would just turn off, then suddenly come on again.

The car is running fine, this happened while I was driving. The ebrake works fine and was never up. What could it be?

 

[awd93talon]

it sounds like a charging problem. how old is your alt, battery? do you have a system hooked up?

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

yea I have a system hooked up.

900watt max amp to power my speakers, and mono amp for the sub. 1.5 farad cap. The battery is 2 months old. I checked with a voltmeter across the battery and its giving me a solid 13.5v. This was at idle.

I saw this thread which looked like the same problem.
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196255&highlight=light

When the engine bay is not so hot I will check if any connectors are loose, if anybody else has an idea on whats going on please do tell. thanks

 

[luv2rallye]

Those 3 lights are the classic indicator of charging system not working properly. Does it do it with your amp on? How about at non-idle and what is battery voltage? Check alt belt tension, connections, and if ok then have alt tested at alt/starter repair shop (yellow pages) - NOT at auto store (they only test go/no go voltage).

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

Thanks for more insight, I checked the voltage on the battery with the car OFF and it was about 12.5v or so. When I mentioned the 13.5v, that was with the car on at idle, so supposedly the alternator is working at this point. This was with the system off. I will investigate this more tomorrow and keep this updated, any more suggestions feel free to post. thanks!

btw is there no way to test the alternator myself?

 

[luv2rallye]

btw is there no way to test the alternator myself?

The alt/starter repair shop will test everything there is to check (about dozen items) including a weak output and too much ripple (AC) test. But a very simple go/no go test is here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=226323
Your 2g uses a red wire instead of yellow on a 4 wire plug (step 2) and black/yellow instead of black/white (steps 3-5).

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

I just did some more tests, I unhooked the cap, and didn't run the sound system and the dummy lights still turn on. From what I've read the break/batt/coolant light dimming and being visible is sign of alternator failure.

So without the system hooked up it still does this.

When the car is off the batt voltage reads about 12.5. Now here is the STRANGE part. When I turn on the car at idle, it jumps up to 16+v!!!! I know that is not normal. And when I rev the motor it goes up even higher.

The dummy lights are on at this point, but get this, I turn on the headlights and the voltage goes down to 15v, then I turn on the ac/fan and it goes to 13-14v and now the dummy lights are gone. supposedly this is normal operating.

What's going on?!?

 

[luv2rallye]

The regulator in your alt is bad. Unfortunately you have to buy the whole alt as one unit. Do you have a high enough amp alt to run your amp? If not that may be why it failed and a new one of same rating will do the same. 90A alts come with the 2.4L and I've seen some guys with 120's even. And an alt repair shop will custom wind one for almost any amount you want and even take your old one in trade.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

Yea it seems like its that time. Does the 2.4L one work? I relaly just want a direct bolt on replacement, no other brackets or modification needed to make it fit. And is it pretty easy to switch out? I didn't see any walkthrough.

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...rd=alternator&KeywordCat=Alternator&VehCode=Y

The first one listed is the one they said came up for the car when I called, but will any of those work?

 

[luv2rallye]

I'm not 100% sure but I would be surprised if it didn't since Eclipse has an upgrade to 90A alts and many Canadian models have them (they have daytime running lights up there). Call Mitsu and ask. Also try searching this forum.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

Thanks a lot luv2rallye, you have been very very helpful. I did a lot of searches on alternators here and you have replied with very informative information.
You should really do a write up on replacing/problem diagnosis on 2g alternators. You got it down like no other.

This will be my first time removing/installing an alternator, is it difficult? The belts scare me as I don't know what I should be removing and what not. Is it easier to remove/put it on through the bottom?

BTW, I contacted a local shop that sells amps, and even hi output ones. Hopefully they have decent prices.

 

[luv2rallye]

It's not difficult and it's easier to come out the bottom. Here's how:

Alternator removal:

All nuts/bolts are 12mm so get a 12mm socket w/rachet, a 2" and 12" extension, and 12mm box end wrench. Disconnect one battery terminal, remove inner splash shield from under car next to alt and oil filter cooler (so there is room to pull bottom alt mounting bolt out), pull out alt electrical connector while pressing locking tab (wiggle and press and pull hard), undo nut that holds large electrical cable onto alt and remove it (this is hot so tape wire up so it will not touch anything and don't let wrench touch metal - in case battery gets reconnected before its back on), remove upper adjustor locking bolt that holds alt to brace, loosen tensioner screw, if now can push alt back enough to remove belt do so, remove bottom mounting bolt nut (just above oil filter - remove filter if need to), drive out lower mounting bolt (that you just took nut off), remove drive belt if haven't yet, remove alt (will have to wriggle back and forth a lot and pull hard, bring alt out bottom). Pic below shows alt with tensioner (power steering pump is removed).

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60800&d=1140826833

 

[Fayt]

I had the same problem with my car, ebrake light, and battery light would dim/go on and off. Turned out my alternator wasn't charging at all. Simple to replace, took me, the mechanically retarded DSMer about 1 hour total and that included lunch

My dad used this tool that checked the voltage on the car and everything... just have a Firestone or someone check to see if your alternator is working.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

I got it out, took about 30mins. But damn it was a very tight squeeze bringing it out the bottom, but no way was it coming out from the top with the power steering pump there. It looks like it's going to be a bit more difficult putting the new one in. I might just lift the driver side fan a bit so thers a bit more clearance. It sucks that my lower ic piping goes through that side so I had to remove that.

Pretty straight forward from your directions. I'll be picking up the new alternator tomorrow and update this thread.

 

[luv2rallye]

Ya removing the fan is what a lot of guys do (even the radiator sometimes). I've taken them going both top and bottom. The alt is actually easier to come out the top (clearance) but removing the PS pump takes more time than doing it out the bottom so I usually recommend that. But if you get into clearance problems you now know what to do.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

Well problem solved!

Problems and symptoms: Dash lights/dummy lights slowly become lit, and will sometimes depend on the rpms you're in. These lights are the emergency brake (E-Brake), battery, and coolant light. All three will be lit at the same time, and will go on and off at the same time. Also measured voltage across the battery WITH the car running at idle will jump to about 15-16volts! Not normal considering normal is 14. Running at higher voltage for a long period of time may start frying electrical components (ie ECU). Reving the rpms and driving can make it go up to 17-20volts, and maybe even more! The VOLTAGE REGULATOR on the ALTERNATOR is DONE!

Solution: Replace with new/rebuilt alternator. I replaced mine with a rebuilt OEM spec amp, from local alternator speciality shop that builds and sells these. They can also build custom hi amp alternators for our cars. The OEM spec I bought cost $115 including tax with core exchange. I forgot to mention the website which will give you a 5% discount. They quoted me on a 120-130 amp alternator for abou $230-240.. somewhere around there. Maybe they will ship? http://autolectrics.com/
Following all the help from luv2rallye the removal and install straight forward. I just followed his directions. It will definitely be easier to remove the driver side fan, its only 4 bolts and you should do it. You can remove the alternator with it on, but it was a tight squeeze and I had to FORCE it out. Putting the new one in will not, and I dont want to force a new alternator; so definitely remove the fans.
Everything now works great!

 

[Fayt]

When I replaced mine, I just unbolted the top of the radiator's support (2 holders w/2 12mm bolts) so I could lift it up and move it. Because of the stretchy hoses, it moved to the side easily, and I had no clearance issues whatsoever.