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Coolant, brake, and battery light come on and off.

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gusu

15+ Year Contributor
1,950
33
Sep 9, 2009
Independence, Oregon
So I know I have a short somewhere but can't figure out if this is supposed to be a code or whatever. I can't find it in the online manual either.

So last week while driving on the highway to pick up my GF from work my boost gauge stopped working properly and I noticed my rear defroster comes on by itself.


But today while driving home from a fellow DSMer's house (I was helping him figure out what was wrong with his car and found several problems), I saw white smoke coming from the driver side pop up headlight area. When I got home and checked it I noticed the smell was coming from the alternator area. Also while driving home the battery, brake, and coolant light all came on.

I know they all come on when a belt snaps but it's obviously just fine. Plus the smell, smells like it is electrical and it's a bit odd this happened before and my boost gauge and defroster started to not work properly anymore.

Can anyone tell me if this is a code to tell me what wire this is or if it's just showing those systems aren't getting power?

Can I buy a new wire harness for the alternator? I'm assuming it's the alternator wiring since it smells and looks like the short is in that area, plus it's the only area in my car where the wires have the outer protection of the wiring exposed. I have yet to find a noninsulated wire just yet. But I am sure this is the area causing my problems.

Is this easy to remove or is it attached to the whole engines wire harness? I can't seem to find any information.
 
You have a failing alternator. Replace your alternator and not the harness. If the harness was bad there are usually visuals to back it up. Iv seen bad alternators do what you have explained on several dsm's
 
You have a failing alternator. Replace your alternator and not the harness. If the harness was bad there are usually visuals to back it up. Iv seen bad alternators do what you have explained on several dsm's

Actually, this does make sense after reading a bit. Apparently the diodes can fail causing them to smoke due to a short.

Any idea if this would show signs of failure during a load test?

I'm still interested in trying to rewire my alternator if anyone has information that could be helpful.
 
As stated above, you have a charging problem. More than likely the alternator will test bad under a load tester however I have seen a few that took several attempts to show a low charge condition. As for the wiring to the alternator it is in the chassis harness that starts at the pass side fuse block and runs under the radiator support, under the drivers side fender and into the back of the fuse block on the drivers side of the car.
 
As stated above, you have a charging problem. More than likely the alternator will test bad under a load tester however I have seen a few that took several attempts to show a low charge condition. As for the wiring to the alternator it is in the chassis harness that starts at the pass side fuse block and runs under the radiator support, under the drivers side fender and into the back of the fuse block on the drivers side of the car.

Thanks, that should save me some time tracing it. I just need to read a bit more about wiring to make sure I don't mess anything up. I did read on Mitsumedia that you can do a single 4 gauge wire instead of the two 8 gauge wires. I might consider doing this but I guess I'd need a fuse.

I've also only had one instance of the alternator not charging the battery fully and it was the time when the boost gauge became messed up. I had thought it was shorting out and causing parasitic drain but it tested negative. This is starting to make more sense.

I also have a 2 year warranty that is still valid on my alternator so I'm just going to have it tested tomorrow and then have it warrantied out if it is bad.

I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

It was indeed my alternator. It started smoking under the load test. My boost gauge and defroster also work properly now.
 
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For both of u its your alternator just buy a new one and make sure the battery is fully charged befor u put a new one on there!! Half charged battery + new alternator= bad alternator

The burning smell you were getting at the beginning was prob. pwr steering fluid dripping on the alternator same thing happened to me!
 
I have had terrible luck with alternators. The only one that has held up so far is the most recent one I bought from Autozone. The alternator for a galant. Same plug. Bolts right up. Paid like $130 new for lifetime warranty. It is also a 90 amp.

I experienced those lights as well before installing this latest alternator. Zero lights since.
 
I am having a problem as well. I took my alternator off to make it straighter. It never had problems before. After taking it off and putting it back on now it wont charge. I dont see signs of wear on the wires. I doubt it would instantly go bad at this exact moment. Yes the belts are tight and yes its spinning. Is there just the two that run to that bolt? Is there a ground somewhere?

I'm wondering if I've missed something. I see two wires. 1 power steering, 1 oil pump, and 3 a frayed wire missing. I've got those hooked up other than frayed wire. I've got the alternator plastic clip in and the two to one power wire hooked up. Is this frayed wire suppose to do something with the alternator or maybe it was grounding out my alternator yet i did not blow a fuse. hmmm anyone that can help please post for other users , but if you could email where the frayed wire goes to [email protected] that would be wonderful. I will be outside in my garage ..........Thinking. GOOOOOOOOO DSM TEAMWORK :cool:

Nothing like your DSM Builder saying straighten your alternator , Redo all you front end arms , and putting it all back together and on your way to get your patiently waited tune and 11psi increase to your car not starting when stopping at a store
 
What does straighten your alternator mean? And front arms? Not sure what that means.
My Talin torqued the hell out of my powersteering pump bracket & bent it but I'd have a hard time seeing that happen to the alternator. Tho it does seem I cracked the body of my alternator. Not sure how
 
^ I need to find one and put it back on would using heat wrap help any. seems I can find that more easily then the heat shields. but to this post if changing the alternator doesn't help any check your harmonic balancer for wobble if its wobbling change it. I changed my alt to a 90 amp last month a week later harmonic balancer went out stranded at work had to get a used one from a dsm guy in indy and change it on a 20 degree night. good times LOL.
 
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