2G Weight reduction running out of ideas

[Archer Fabrications]

Remove them. If you haven't already, and want to drop some more, lightweight front/rear brakes. If you don't have a need for the E-brake, remove it, and all the associated hardware, brake dust shields, cables, lever assembly and bracketry. If you intend on keeping your factory E-brake, then at least remove the dust shields from the fronts, if you haven't taken apart the rears its not worth trying to fully remove them and destroy stock axles/hubs until they break or are too worn.

There is alot behind the dash you can pull, and a TON of wiring that can be removed.

Thanks tim, i do plan to keep the ebreak. I know there is a ton of wiring to remove bit how do i trace all that back without disassembling the whole harness? For instance mu SRS ECU plug, i can get rid of all that but I'd have to unravel alllll the loom and such and tape it all back. This is something inwant to do some day but dont have enough time to do a project like that right now haha

 

[gofer]

All the ducting for the HVAC under the dash is held in with those very small gold philips head screws, I removed mine and pretty sure you've got to pull the dash to do it. All in a days work though and "while you're in there" you can use a heat gun and scrapper to remove the sound deadening material on the firewall.

Have you removed the ABS/ABS ECU on the passenger side floor board, cruise control ECU, keyless entry receiver (behind rear drivers side quarter panel), the weight in the glove box plastic, weight in the steering column plastic? I know you're saying you don't have time for the wire tuck but there's a TON of weight in the harness to lose since you've removed so much from stock.

Since you removed the spare tire well all the wiring that went to the windshield cleaner tank can be removed, I did this about a year ago and pulled about 2lbs out of the body harness all the way to the ETACS ECU. I also bought a spot weld remover drill bit and removed the OE bracing that goes between the two back tires, once I get the cage installed I plan on finish the job removing the metal over the strut tower too using a plasma cutter. It was only good for a few lbs if that but it all adds up.

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The cost to weight saving's of buying a rear hatch and FAL glass isn't worth the weight loss until you've done EVERYTHING else first. I have rear stock glass in a CF hatch (without struts) and it feels just as heavy as a stock hatch/glass without working struts. The FAL glass is advertised as 13lbs and the stock hatch glass weighs ~20lbs, spendings $400 bones to drop 7lbs is steep. I'd rather just take ex-lax the day before track day and lose 7lbs...

Like Tim said, you'll see better gains dropping unsprung mass off the brake rotors and wheels (which you've already replaced)

 

[Archer Fabrications]

All the ducting for the HVAC under the dash is held in with those very small gold philips head screws, I removed mine and pretty sure you've got to pull the dash to do it. All in a days work though and "while you're in there" you can use a heat gun and scrapper to remove the sound deadening material on the firewall.

Have you removed the ABS/ABS ECU on the passenger side floor board, cruise control ECU, keyless entry receiver (behind rear drivers side quarter panel), the weight in the glove box plastic, weight in the steering column plastic? I know you're saying you don't have time for the wire tuck but there's a TON of weight in the harness to lose since you've removed so much from stock.

Since you removed the spare tire well all the wiring that went to the windshield cleaner tank can be removed, I did this about a year ago and pulled about 2lbs out of the body harness all the way to the ETACS ECU. I also bought a spot weld remover drill bit and removed the OE bracing that goes between the two back tires, once I get the cage installed I plan on finish the job removing the metal over the strut tower too using a plasma cutter. It was only good for a few lbs if that but it all adds up.

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The cost to weight saving's of buying a rear hatch and FAL glass isn't worth the weight loss until you've done EVERYTHING else first. I have rear stock glass in a CF hatch (without struts) and it feels just as heavy as a stock hatch/glass without working struts. The FAL glass is advertised as 13lbs and the stock hatch glass weighs ~20lbs, spendings $400 bones to drop 7lbs is steep. I'd rather just take ex-lax the day before track day and lose 7lbs...

Like Tim said, you'll see better gains dropping unsprung mass off the brake rotors and wheels (which you've already replaced)

This is good shit actually. I was wondering what that box was behind the rear quarter pannel, good to know that can go also it's just sitting in the open, i wasnt sure if it was the flasher unit or not, i dont know much of what is what on the electrical side in the interior. I have not removed any abs stuff yet but it doesnt work anyway. I havnt removed it due to the prop valve repacement, and re routing break lines, am i able to pull the box under the driver wheel well without messing with the lines? And which one is the cruise ecu and abs Ecu. I have removed all the washer wiring and defroster wiring. Definately noted on the hatch thanks!


Your car always looks mint man, can't wait to see it

 

[donniekak]

Coming to Arizona you're going to need a full sized radiator, and some real fans.

 

[Christoph]

Hey UrbanSmoker you said you used a MK3 golf radiator, I also need a rad that fits inside of the radiator support area as that would fit my turbo and manifold perfectly, any chance you can tell me which one you bought. I looked at your profile, it fits great.

As for weight reduction I know it's been mentioned a few times but the wiring harness in the engine bay alone must weigh 20lbs when complete. That or maybe mine has pounds of grease/oil and dirt packed on it, any ways if you are cutting a lot of stuff out the car that is a great thing to look at.

 

[gofer]

Coming to Arizona you're going to need a full sized radiator, and some real fans.

My AFCO does the job out here with my single push and besides, who's driving their car out here when it's over 90* without AC anyway?

Save this FSM, Kyle. It's full of useful info like the location of stuff, page 13 even shows how the factory alarm system wards off ninjas it's so damn good.

2g DSM Tech Info FSM​

 

[Archer Fabrications]

My AFCO does the job out here with my single push and besides, who's driving their car out here when it's over 90* without AC anyway?

Save this FSM, Kyle. It's full of useful info like the location of stuff, page 13 even shows how the factory alarm system wards off ninjas it's so damn good.

2g DSM Tech Info FSM​

Score! Thank you! Yeah i just have an ebay mk3 golf rad, two mishimoto pusher fans. My temps arent an issue plus your right. Lol whonwould wanna drivr around without AC above 90

 

[donniekak]

My AFCO does the job out here with my single push and besides, who's driving their car out here when it's over 90* without AC anyway?

The week a little over a month ago when it was 115+ everyday, I drove my car every day with the windows down. And I have ac, I just don't really like using it because I work outside, and don't like getting in and out of ac until I get home.

With my griffin, and spal fans I rarely get over 200*, when I'm doing pulls, and never do during regular driving.

We have 5 vehicles, but for some crazy reason 99% of the time I'm either in my talon, or on my bike. The only time I use the other cars is when I take the kids somewhere.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

For the brace betwrrn the wheel wells. Would a step drill work to get rid of the spot welds? I would obviously want to do it cleanest way possible. But some day I'd like to media blast the chassis and repaint the inside and out when the cage is in.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Although carbon goodies would be nice, and i do plan to get a hatch with lexan or FAL glass, but other then that it's a little too expensive to justify for me. The fenders arent too bad i guess. What do you mean double skin? Like sandwiched sheetmetal? Think i gotta keep the door locks for obvious reasons

no the front fenders are pretty light already but the rears can be cut around the structure and replaced with sheet aluminum and that will help towards the goal!

when i say double skin i mean like the doors and rear sections that sit away from the outer skin of the body work! its all excess and it all adds up, sometimes al that can add upto 3-7kg on its own! thats enough to concern dedicated cars but if your keeping your dash you might not need to worry about it as much

 

[91stocker]

I dont think its been mentioned but if its not your daily you can run a lawn mower battery. Walmart has them for $10 and they weigh 8lbs. Thats more weight loss than a cf hood for $10 haha.

 

[gofer]

For the brace betwrrn the wheel wells. Would a step drill work to get rid of the spot welds? I would obviously want to do it cleanest way possible. But some day I'd like to media blast the chassis and repaint the inside and out when the cage is in.

Yes but you can only get to the ones that have enough clearance for the size of the drill/bit, it's pretty tight in there. Talking with my fabricator, he said it would be no problem cleaning that up with the cage install using a plasma cutter, if you can get a drill bit in there though go for it. Just be sure to coat the exposed metal to prevent oxidization.


I didn't see if you had pulled the weight out of your glove box door or tilt wheel plastic? Combined you're looking at a few pounds lost if you remove the weights from them. 91stocker, good point, battery weight is easily dropped getting a small battery too but Kyle's already running a Odyssey PC80 small battery that weighs 16lbs (stock is ~40lbs I think).

 

[Archer Fabrications]

no the front fenders are pretty light already but the rears can be cut around the structure and replaced with sheet aluminum and that will help towards the goal!

when i say double skin i mean like the doors and rear sections that sit away from the outer skin of the body work! its all excess and it all adds up, sometimes al that can add upto 3-7kg on its own! thats enough to concern dedicated cars but if your keeping your dash you might not need to worry about it as much

Ohhh i understand what you mean now. Cause there are pockets behing the rear 1/4 skin cut the interior sheeting

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I dont think its been mentioned but if its not your daily you can run a lawn mower battery. Walmart has them for $10 and they weigh 8lbs. Thats more weight loss than a cf hood for $10 haha.

I run a pc680 it's 14lbs

I havnt pulled te glove box or steering comom metal yet figured when dash is out I'll see all kinds of unnecessary things to trash. Lol


Cory good to know. I'll try it out with the drill. I dont have a plasma yet but it's on my to get tool list for the garage/shop


You guys are giving me lots of good ideas, more then i had! sound deadening is gone in the rear speaker area. Next to do is pull the dash. But i might try to make it to an event on sunday to see how she does as is.

 

[arrowhead]

I would not remove the rear brace between the rear strut towers, at least not until you have your cage in and then I have reservations about removing it, since it ties the bottom of car eliminating some chassis flex.
I think it performs the same duty as under door bars to eliminate movement.

The outer fender well can be cut as long as you stay to the outside of the welds.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

So tese two boxes on the bracket are security alarm boxes correct? And can go?

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[Archer Fabrications]

Okay dash is loose just need to rotate it out over the steering wherl some how. All harnesses are unplugged. Not sure how to get it over the turn signal/wiper leavers though.

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[twicks69]

Just center the steering wheel, take it off, and remove the 4 small phillips screws for the stalks; super easy to do, and then you have a couple connectors to disconnect.

 

[gofer]

So tese two boxes on the bracket are security alarm boxes correct? And can go?

You must have missed the FSM link I sent, I attached it for a reason.

I removed the receiver, you can try the door lock relay too but not sure if locking the drivers side door will also lock the passenger side door like it normally does. I liked the feature so I left it, never experimented with removing it though. Try it and see what happens...

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[dexterholland04]

I got my car down to 2425 without doing too much. I still have full glass, stock brakes, rear bumper support, full mild steel cage, 5 gallons of E85, and a parachute.

 

[gofer]

^^^ Could you be a bit more specific, please? "...without doing too much" doesn't really help those trying to get their 2g's down to 2425.

I've done A LOT and my car's right at 2760. That's full glass, stock brakes, rear bumper support, 5ga of E85 (no cage or 'chute).

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[mavericktsi83]

I got my car down to 2425 without doing too much. I still have full glass, stock brakes, rear bumper support, full mild steel cage, 5 gallons of E85, and a parachute.

If you don't mind (hopefully it doesn't require you to write a novel) could you go into some detail on how you achieved this. Most seem to struggle to get to the 2400lb mark and spend quite a lot on lightweight parts in the process. Thanks.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Just center the steering wheel, take it off, and remove the 4 small phillips screws for the stalks; super easy to do, and then you have a couple connectors to disconnect.

Was hoping i didn't have to remove the wheel, it's an evo wheel and I'm afraid I'll break the plastic airbag trim


Also curious how this effortless weightloss happened.

 

[dsmcrzy]

I removed my dash with out taking the stock giant 2g wheel out. Just put it all the way down and it will go up and over it. Takes a bit of maneuvering but is do-able

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Gonna get it out in an hour or two. Thanks guys! And thanks cory for the fsm!