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water pipe block off

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LiquidX

DSM Wiseman
8,280
130
Sep 19, 2008
Anywhere, Pennsylvania
Well I've tried searching but haven't gotten too much info.

On the new turbo setup I'll put putting on soon, it's non water cooled. I'm looking for the exact things you need to do to block off the cooling ports on the water pipe.

I am unable to use a 1g NT pipe being that I have a 6 bolt and 2g head so don't advise that.

Is there only the one port coming off of the water pipe that needs blocked off or are there other things to cap as well on the pipe or is the other connector just on the t-stat housing? I'm going to be welding things shut so more info the better.

Also, how does the water pipe come out exactly. I know you need to unbolt it from the block but after doing that will it easily slide out or do I need to take the t-stat housing off as well?


Thanks
 
I'm digging through my 2g manuals and I don't see why a 2g 4g64 t-stat housing wouldn't work for you, from what I can tell they use the same water pipe and wouldn't have the extra inlet/outlet for the turbo lines.

Either the water pump or t-stat housing need to be removed to take out the water pipe and IMO the t-stat housing is a lot easier to pull.

:dsm:
 
The 4g64 water pipe doesn't have a port for the oil cooler, so if the liquidx still has that that pipe won't work for him. If it was me and I had to block off a port I would just cut the port off and cut it in half and use that metal to block off the port, having it TIG welded of course. A good welder shouldn't even need filler and can just melt the 2 pieces together. You also have to think about blocking off the port on the thermostat housing. This could easily be done by drilling out the nipple and tapping for an NPT plug. The ghettoist way would be to just loop between the 2 ports.
 
Scott, where are the water lines hooked up now? 2g's don't have any turbo water lines connected to the thermostat housing - one goes to the block, and the other to the water pipe.
 
why not just plug the whole. The thread size is m16x1.5 on the water pipe for the coolant return line

On the water pipe line, for 91+ there is also a coolant line to the oil cooler, IDK if you have that on your waterpipe but thats the only other line I can think of off that pipe

The water pipe I believe pops out, there is a seal around it when it connects to the water pump.
 
The 4g64 thermostat housing is on the side of the head, and the 4g63 housing is on the end of the head. They are completely different. A water pipe from a 4g64 would work, provided you don't need oil cooler lines. I stand corrected, the line I thought went from the thermostat housing to the turbo is in fact just for the oil cooler. There are lines pointing everywhere in the manual.
 
I don't know where the 4g64 came into question but all I'm aware of is that I can only use the 2g turbo pipe.

Eric, I'm unfamiliar on where the water lines are at. I just know the one line is on the pipe and another from the turbo appeared to go to the t stat housing. I didn't know about the port in the head.

The bolt size, from what I've been reading is an oil pan bolt basically?

Any other info that had t been posted? Also I am running a water cooled OFH so those lines will be staying.
 
In the manual it is showing the one water line to the turbo has a banjo that bolts to the block, and the other line goes to the water pipe. So I really have no idea how you are even running coolant lines to the turbo currently. This is how the lines run on a 2g 7-bolt:

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Thanks for the diagram. All DSMs use water cooled turbos from factory. I'm just unfamiliar with where the lines originate from. Just know I have 2 banjo fittings on the turbo.
 
Can you take a picture of your setup? We need to know exactly where the water lines are run now to advise how to block them. Otherwise, you could just swap to a 1g thermostat housing/water pipe configuration. They bolt up to a 2g head just fine.
 
It's the same way any stock DSM has their water lines. Just I'm on the 6bolt block so I would need a bolt that would fit that thread and am using a 2g water pipe.

As stated, I was just unsure of the exact specs on where the lines go. If it's only the block and the one on the water pipe then that'll be easy to plug.
 
Yes, I plan on welding the water pipe anyway, that was already decided. I just needed to know about any other ports I may have missed before I go and get this all done.
 
It's the same way any stock DSM has their water lines. Just I'm on the 6bolt block so I would need a bolt that would fit that thread and am using a 2g water pipe.

As stated, I was just unsure of the exact specs on where the lines go. If it's only the block and the one on the water pipe then that'll be easy to plug.

It CAN'T be the same way any stock DSM has it. The 2g feeds from a hole in the block (6 bolts do not have this hole) and return to the water pipe. On 1g's, the feed is from the thermostat housing and the return is to the water pipe. Therefore, I don't know where you are feeding from since the 2g thermostat housing has no provisions for feeding a turbo and you don't have the hole in the block to feed from.
 
Oh, I was unaware of that. The only thing that had me thinking it was proper is the fact that ExtremePSI sells the water block off bolts and there are 2 sizes (1 for each gen)

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Water Pipe Bolt Plug : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 Turbo

Perhaps that's not for the block but I'm unsure. You have gotten me to go and take a picture now :p

I'll see what kind of shots I can get on it for you all.

Well I guess I was right with my first assumption. The top water line on the turbo goes to the T stat housing and the bottom fitting on he turbo goes to the water pipe n


Bottom fitting to water pipe
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Top fitting to T stat housing.
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T stat housing.
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I am correct with the lines as I just took the turbo off last week and those 2 lines were taken off.

So is there something odd then with my setup?
 

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That thermostat housing barb usually feeds the oil cooler. Does it have any water lines run to it? Also, it appears you have an Evo 3 (or similar) water pipe. The barb placement on there is slightly different than a 2g water pipe. This water pipe may or may not have a barb for the oil cooler depending on which car it came from.
 
The old motor was from an RVR and he t stat housing may have been swapped but I'm not sure. I do have a coolant cooled OFH and it does get coolant. Mechanic asked for my old coolant lines that goto it. I know there is a barb towards the water pump however.
 
This is all interesting. I'd be interested to see how they ran everything once the turbo is off and all is exposed.
 
Ok, it looks like the coolant feed for the oil cooler is T'ed into a heater (or FIAV) hose. It's just outside the range of the 3rd picture you took. So what you should do is have the barb on the water pipe that is currently feeding the turbo welded up, then reroute the feed for the oil cooler from the T back to the thermostat housing where it originally was (and eliminate the T). That's the easiest way. Or, you can leave the T, remove the barb on the thermostat housing, drill/tap it for 1/4" NPT and plug it. I wouldn't recommend this way in your situation, though.
 
I saw what you were talking about. I was planning on getting rid of the tee after I removed the FIAV. The line does intact goto the OFH.

Picture is flipped upside down but you can still see the tee.
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Here is the line from the tee going to the coolant pipe for the OFH.
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I'm wondering where the return line on the OFH is located now. :hmm:

How many barbs are supposed to be on the housing? I'm curious because I don't know why the mechanic would have teed into the line unless there wernt enough provisions.
 

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Stock 2g upper thermostat housing has 2 barbs - one for oil cooler feed and one for the overflow bottle. The lower housing only has the one barb on the back that feeds the heater hose and FIAV. The mechanic did have to tee into that line because you no longer could feed the turbo from the block (and he changed up some stuff).
 
Oh what fun. Would have been nice if he told me this stuff. Thanks a lot Eric and everyone else for heir insight. I'll take a look at the t stat housing and verify the nipples on it. I'll then figure out how everything else routed and adjust from there. Deffinatly will take a little bit to diagnose and repair/fix what was done.

Well it appears I have 3 nipples total. The one on the front that the turbo is connected to and 2 on the back. The back one is a double nipple as the main tube is for the heater core and the other is or was going to the FIAV. It seems I won't need to weld any nipples I just need to re route some lines more properly.

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