Waterpipe Block-off

[2GeNTSi]

So first off, I did do some searching and didn't find anything pertaining to my particular question. Everything about the block-off relates to running a air cooled turbo, so here we go.

I just took off my waterpipe today and noticed that I might be able to plug off one of the provisions, but I want to make sure it is safe to do so (it probably is but I just want to make sure).

I'm running a 6-bolt on my 2G and I have a waterpipe that has a smaller diameter pipe running perpendicular towards the firewall. From what I recall, this pipe was for the heater core, and also a tee that supplied coolant to the FIAV. I've been running my FIAV blocked off for sometime now and my heater core failed on me about two years ago. I have since left the feed and return line on the heater core venting.

With that said, the pipe that tees off the waterpipe essentially is just looping coolant back to the thermostat housing. I was thinking I could just cut it, weld it up, then replace the lower nipple on the thermostat with a plug (it's threaded). And lastly cut and jb weld the upper nipple.

To address the coupler issue that prompted me to remove it in the first place, I do have another waterpipe that I might use instead after cleaning it up a bit.

Take a look at the diagram I made (it's ghetto), but this is basically how my waterpipe is setup right now.

 

[bradselph]

there are several reason not to do that, as it could cause a over cooling problem and never let the ecu go into learning mode so it will run rich, and could even make the water circulate faster than normal not allowing it to cool down so now your overheating.

 

[ed1380]

If it does that then just put the thermostat back in. Doesnt take long. Mine heats up just as fast as a a 4g63 with a thermostat.

 

[2GeNTSi]

the plugs are from home depot. i think they were 3/8 and 1/8 for the smaller holes. issue is stock thermostat holes are bspt so you need to run a npt tap to allow them to fit. it only breaks the edge off the stock threads so it isnt a major retap.

My bad, I meant the cap screws that bolt the outlet neck to the thermostat housing. I didn't bother looking for new bolts, but I might as well if everything else on the assembly is new.

Call up jnz and they have the 1/8 plugs from the head that are bspt and fit perfect and then they have the 3/8 plugs from the oil filter housing that are bspt and fit perfect as well...

Yeah those are the exact ones I have. I was referring to the bolts holding down the outlet neck.

there are several reason not to do that, as it could cause a over cooling problem and never let the ecu go into learning mode so it will run rich, and could even make the water circulate faster than normal not allowing it to cool down so now your overheating.

Hmmm, well luckily I haven't encountered anything like that with just the heater core provisions deleted. I haven't had it running in it's current state for very long, so we will see if I notice any cooling issues.

 

[bradselph]

Hmmm, well luckily I haven't encountered anything like that with just the heater core provisions deleted. I haven't had it running in it's current state for very long, so we will see if I notice any cooling issues.

That comment was directed at removing the thermostat.

 

[3kgt2nv]

oh they are socket head cap screws. if i remember correctly they were m8x20.

any home depot or lowes will have them in the hardware section.

 

[2GeNTSi]

oh they are socket head cap screws. if i remember correctly they were m8x20.

any home depot or lowes will have them in the hardware section.

Thanks! It looks like the pitch for it is 1.25. Might have to swing by and get some of those so that everything on it is completely new.

 

[Wreckleford]

I am not sure if I should have started a new thread, but does anyone know for sure if the heater core allows coolant to flow even when the heater is turned off? Is there an internal bypass inside the heater core?