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want to bring up boost. What all do i need?

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98blackeclipse

10+ Year Contributor
98
1
Jul 6, 2010
Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
I have a 98 gst. My car car is completely stock besides a 3in. catback, mbc, and a boost gauge, i am wanting to know what all do i need to bring up boost. I am shooting for 16 psi.

i forgot to mention i just recently upgraded to a 14b
 
i just upgraded to the 14b not to long ago. i've heard you can turn those up to 20psi

Do not turn it up past 15psi without a logger or wideband, if getting a couple extra psi is worth blowing stuff up then go for it but its better to be safe. Take the time and spend the extra $200 for the stuff, then you won't have to worry.
 
You will be fine with a 14b and 16 psi but you will run rich. You will want something to tune the car as the MAF won't be able to just "tune" your car. I'd get an AEM UEGO/LC-1 at the very least.

Oh and upgrade to some 450s if you haven't already.
 
You will be fine with a 14b and 16 psi but you will run rich. You will want something to tune the car as the MAF won't be able to just "tune" your car. I'd get an AEM UEGO/LC-1 at the very least.

Oh and upgrade to some 450s if you haven't already.

Our cars always run rich from the factory, so they don't blow stuff up. This is why turning up the boost on a stock car isn't a problem at all, we could mathematically run 50% e85/pump gas in our cars and run just fine.

They come with 450s stock.

And I trapped 114mph with nothing to tune with.
 
You need a logger period, the timing tables in the ECU are very aggressive so you need a way to see if your getting knock. Every car reacts differently to more boost, your car may be one of those cars that blows up.
 
I'd get a datalogging setup and monitor your IDC (Injector Duty Cycle). If you turn up the boost and it's past 85% I'd get bigger injectors. Get a wideband to monitor your air fuel ratio. Also, if you're lacking fuel then upgrade to an EVO 8 or 9 fuel pump. Or a Walbro 190 or 255. If you get the 255 you should also look into an AFPR. You'll need an MBC & a Boost gauge. If you are going to buy bigger injectors you might as well get some 680's and get an SAFC to tune your fuel map. Then throw on a downpipe and exhaust... it never ends once you start.
 
If you are just doing a little an AFC is ok, but if you are doing more than a little, you should go DSMlink.
Piggy back tuners are marginal at best. (I have used my fair share, and don't like the way they make the car run.) The MAF is the computer's main load input. Messing with it causes the computer to think it is running a different load level then it actually is. This can cause the computer to do funny things, sometimes good, sometimes bad. (It will indirectly mess with ignition timing, and closed loop.)

If you ask me if I would use one on my car, I'd say only if it was the ONLY way I could tune it. Or if the car was 99% stock and needed a little fine tuning. (They do have their place, fine tuning, but it isn't in my car.)

Mike Croutcher (I'm back)
Diamond Star Specialties
 
If you are just doing a little an AFC is ok, but if you are doing more than a little, you should go DSMlink.
Piggy back tuners are marginal at best. (I have used my fair share, and don't like the way they make the car run.) The MAF is the computer's main load input. Messing with it causes the computer to think it is running a different load level then it actually is. This can cause the computer to do funny things, sometimes good, sometimes bad. (It will indirectly mess with ignition timing, and closed loop.)

If you ask me if I would use one on my car, I'd say only if it was the ONLY way I could tune it. Or if the car was 99% stock and needed a little fine tuning. (They do have their place, fine tuning, but it isn't in my car.)

Mike Croutcher (I'm back)
Diamond Star Specialties

+1 on the AFC opinion. I love seeing Hondas running around here with injectors more than 50% over stock and only using an safc. The kids wonder why they only get 10 mpg in a Honda
 
i have mine set to 20-23 with no problems... but that just me... i dont recommend doing that since you risk the chance of blowing or harming your motor... but i guess every motor is different since mine has lasted ever since... it pulls hard and havent hit fuel cut yet.... also i have no way of tuning witch alot of people say that im knocking like crazy and running lean.... but hey i burn modded sti's, turbo is300, smoke hondas all day but 1 that is pushing over 500hp... but other than that its a fun car and fast.... my valve stems decided to give up on me so im thinking of dropping in a spare motor thati have... 2g pistons ans 1g rods combo... cant wait.. but if you want to crank your boost from stock to 16 i dont thing it will harm your motor.. keep in mind that a wideband would be nice to read your a/f ratios... have in mind that it will all be good with proper maintenance
 
A 14b at 16psi should be fine on the stock fuel system. These cars run so rich up top it's ridiculous. It's when people start messing with SAFC's and don't watch the timing that trouble happens. When I was running a SAFC, I was pulling about 8% of the fuel up top because it was running so rich. That was a completely stock car at that point.

For extra reassurance though, it wouldn't be a bad idea to rewire the fuel pump so it sees a more stable voltage. Some way to log also wouldn't be a bad idea, but isn't 100% necessary at that level.

You have a 98, which means you should have the plastic cased 98/99 ecu. You have some very affordable tuning options. If you already own a laptop, just forget that the AFCs even exist.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...first-flashed-dsm-ecu-98-99-flashing-faq.html

And you can use EvoScan (software developed for Evo guys) to log. The $25 software with a $15 VAG cable off eBay works great. You'll need the $197 Openport 2.0 cable if you want to reprogram your ecu, though this is all getting ahead of things right now.
 
Like said already, 16psi on a 14b should be fine. I'm putting my 14b on my car thursday and plan on running 16psi as well. Granted a wideband is going in on wednesday and I already have link, but the fuel part of it is just as stock as yours. You should be fine but if it starts acting funny, back the boost up a bit to be safe till you can actually monitor it.
 
I have a 14b on mine.. >.< It pulls just fine. At about 18-20 it'll hit fuel cut (found this out by pure mistake. My Boost controller wasn't clamped down well and blew off)

I also haven't rewired my fuel pump yet... And I expect that when I do that will make a huge difference.
 
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