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Spyder Walbro 255lph in Spyder N/T

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alexr254

Proven Member
313
152
Jun 18, 2021
Palm Coast, Florida
Just curious if anyone has done this fuel pump change on a 2G Spyder N/T.
The Walbro 255lph is about a 1/2 inch larger than the stock pump. I had to modify the lower metal retainer a bit so it will hold correctly.
Have not reinstalled yet and hoping I won’t run into an issue because of it.
 
Not all pumps are plug and play. I had to modify my setup, both hanger and pump, for a wally 350 as well.
Pictures can help a confirmation
It’s a very small modification. Just had to drill a new hole in the pump retainer. I was exaggerating when I said 1/2”. It’s more like 1/4”.

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It looks like you made the whole assembly taller so it may not fit right since it goes from top to the bottom of the tank to begin with.

What you probably should have done is kept the height the same and made room for the top of the new pump instead. Doesn't look like you did anything that can't be undone at least. I'm sure you'll be able to get it in and run the bolts down but its either going to flex the tank or bend the pump/pickup assembly slightly.
 
It looks like you made the whole assembly taller so it may not fit right since it goes from top to the bottom of the tank to begin with.

What you probably should have done is kept the height the same and made room for the top of the new pump instead. Doesn't look like you did anything that can't be undone at least. I'm sure you'll be able to get it in and run the bolts down but its either going to flex the tank or bend the pump/pickup assembly slightly.

This is exactly my concern and why I asked if anyone has done this with a 2G Spyder N/T.

The pump will not fit in any other way without me modifying the actual pump or pickup assembly.

The fitting on the pump is already touching the fitting on the pickup assembly. The hose is already shortened as much as possible.

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I can't speak as to if it will work as is. I would shorten the tube on the pick up and flare it. Also personally I would use screw hose clamps instead of the spring hose clamps. They'll give a tighter seal but that's just my preference.

If you don't feel comfortable shortening the tube you could also try and find a bulkhead fitting that has a shorter barb on it than what yours has now.
 
I can't speak as to if it will work as is. I would shorten the tube on the pick up and flare it. Also personally I would use screw hose clamps instead of the spring hose clamps. They'll give a tighter seal but that's just my preference.

If you don't feel comfortable shortening the tube you could also try and find a bulkhead fitting that has a shorter barb on it than what yours has now.
Im not sure the flaring tool i have will fit. I will definitely look into that.
 
Fuel Injection Hose and Fuel Injection Clamps. Flare is not needed but would help the seal. I don't have flares on my pickup tube but do use FI hose and FI clamps.
To the OP, is just the isolator at the bottom the problem with the new pump? If it would bolt on using the original hole at the bottom for the isolator and clamp, would it fit?
If so, why not remove the bottom isolator/holder and clamp the pump to the pickup with a couple screw type hose clamps like this? Just a thought.

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Fuel Injection Hose and Fuel Injection Clamps. Flare is not needed but would help the seal. I don't have flares on my pickup tube but do use FI hose and FI clamps.
To the OP, is just the isolator at the bottom the problem with the new pump? If it would bolt on using the original hole at the bottom for the isolator and clamp, would it fit?
If so, why not remove the bottom isolator/holder and clamp the pump to the pickup with a couple screw type hose clamps like this? Just a thought.

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Yep, without the rubber insulator on the bottom of the pump it bolts on fine. But i figured that insulator was important and there for a reason.
 
Yep, without the rubber insulator on the bottom of the pump it bolts on fine. But i figured that insulator was important and there for a reason.
It just holds the pump in place so any way to hold it will work. On our 1g cars, we cut the "bell" off of the pickup tube and run straight FI hose (like in my picture) and clamp the pump to the hanger. :) The isolator never fits with the bigger pumps (or not very well) so I remove that and replace it with the setup I use. I have it that way on all 3 of my DSMs.
 
It just holds the pump in place so any way to hold it will work. On our 1g cars, we cut the "bell" off of the pickup tube and run straight FI hose (like in my picture) and clamp the pump to the hanger. :) The isolator never fits with the bigger pumps (or not very well) so I remove that and replace it with the setup I use. I have it that way on all 3 of my DSMs.
I suppose i can also shave down the insulator. It is just rubber afterall.
And as you said, its there just to make sure the pump does not move or vibrate too much.
 
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