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VRSF FMIC Install Qs

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Nate355RS

Nate355RS

Proven Member
446
52
Oct 25, 2012
Salem, Virginia
So I'm in the process of installing my FMIC and I've got a couple questions.

1. I've widened the D holes on the drivers and passengers side so they're plenty big enough for the inlet/outlet. However when I try to test fit inside part of the inlet and outlet pipes are very snug against the radiator support. It's such a tight fit the intercooler will hold itself inplace without any other support. Is that normal? If this is a problem I'll probably have to remove that whole inside corner of the D holes.

2. Also, I would like to keep my AC, does anyone have any tips for rerouting the AC lines or where to bend them so they're out of the way?

3. When this is installed the coupler on my j-pipe will be touching where my downpipe and 02 housing are bolted together. Should I be concerned about this or are these VR-Speed couplers able to handle those temps?
 
when I installed mine It was a snug fit also so I just chopped off the rest of the metal on the inside corner. I don't have a answer to your ac question since I removed mine along time ago. my j pipe coupler is pretty close to the down pipe but its definitely not touching. see if you can reposition the coupler to get more clearance.
 
I bent the passenger side ac line downward, but the driver side is unable to be moved. I cut a piece of rubber that is a medium between the FMIC and the line. The only problem is that the FMIC bottom is angled slightly forward. I guarantee that if you put washers where the mounting brackets are that issue will be resolved. I failed to mention that I did not compensate for the missing crash beam on my car.
 
I swear, keeping AC on the car makes this one of the more frustrating jobs I've attempted. With that one large loom of wires on the driver's side there's almost no place to push the AC lines out of the way. The fit was so tight between the AC and radiator I had to soap up the coupler just to squeeze it on the inlet.

But it's on there now, and as long as I can find a way to fit the clamp on the coupler I'll be set. It's hard to see but hopefully this pic shows what I'm working with. I'm open to any suggestions you might have about how to clamp this thing down.

http://i.imgur.com/h4eOjce.jpg

Sorry about mess, haven't cleaned up all the PS fluid from looping the PS lines.
 
I would love some more pics, I'll be going through the same issue in the near future (installing my FMIC and keeping my AC). Good luck! From what I've read it's definitely not a bolt up affair.
 
GSLENK said:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/466886-1g-c-hardline-fitting-size.html

This thread I started has some really good insight into the stupid pointy AC lines from the factory. For a few hundred$$ you can mount your FMIC any which way you please, other than that, its off to bending cursing begging and compromising.
Click to expand...

Now THAT is how DSM's should be from the factory. Very impressive work, but I don't believe I have the time or skill to accomplish that. I might just loosen the radiator and move it slightly out of the way so I can fit the clam on.


One thing I could never find on this site was a pic of the driver's side D shaped hole. Here is how mine looks with the AC lines bent out of the way and the hole opened up. It might look like there is more room to bend it over but with that loom in the way this is about as good as it gets. I could also take out more sheet metal but it's not in the way, the radiator behind it is.

I'm going to have to get creative to put a clamp on this thing.

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Here is my install.
 

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Ah, you bent your AC to the left side and notched it. That may have been easier. What drivers side fan are you running? Did you have to make any modifications to your radiator?
 
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I had to bend in my radiator a bit. Make sure that there is no contact. Rubbing aluminum together will put a hole in one or both of the pressurized systems. The slim fans made i easier to install. I had my radiator out upon installation of the fmic. I made sure the couplers, were all set and fitted all the piping then I tightened my clamps before I installed the Radiator. Watch out for the clamps' threaded end. I had to install/take out my rad a few times to make sure there was no rubbing. As for the power steering cooler, I ran it down the driver side of the engine bay an bent it to a 90 degree, so it would be flush with the radiator support. The I used some 3/8 hose that I split longways and put it over the forward facing tube. I crisscrossed zipties over the rubber, coolers tend to get hot sometimes, because I don't want the pressure of the zipties holding the cooler to rub against my frame.
 
I'll take some pics this afternoon, I just jammed it in there. I used a pry bar/screwdriver to hold the line out of the way as I got the coupler on. Tight fit but it is all sealed up.
 
I like the look of those slim fans! I will have to trim quite a bit from the stock fan shroud so it will fit.

I pulled the radiator like you said and installing the clamps was much easier. And I agree that positioning the threads on the clamps is going to be important, especially the drivers side inlet clamp.

How did you bend the radiator? I was thinking of a ball peen hammer but I'm afraid to mess it up.
 
Hammer time. I hammered with a ball peen hammer slightly, until i found a contour that would be appropriate. I wish they had teleportation, so I could ask Scotty to beam me there to give you a hand.
 
Just a little update, last weekend I was able to get everything installed with enough clearance so I don't have any metal on metal rubbing. I also took a cutoff wheel and modified my driver's side fan so it doesn't interfere with any of the cold side piping.

However, the j-pipe leaked horribly so I removed it and noticed the flange was warped. After some sanding I was able to get it to sit flush. My next move was to use the crap j-pipe bolts that came with the VRSF kit. They appear to be made of aluminium and without much effort I snapped the head off a bolt while tightening it. To make matters worse I tried to use an easy out to extract the bolt, the easy out snapped and there is now a piece lodged in the hollowed out screw.

So a note to anyone who buys this kit, do not use the j-pipe bolts that come with the kit and if you do USE ANTISEIZE!

Unless you guys know of a better way, I guess my only option is to buy a 1/8" drill bit and try to drill tiny hole around the easy out until it comes out. Then drill out the rest of the seized bolt and tap the hole.... or upgrade the turbo.
 
Nate355RS said:
Just a little update, last weekend I was able to get everything installed with enough clearance so I don't have any metal on metal rubbing. I also took a cutoff wheel and modified my driver's side fan so it doesn't interfere with any of the cold side piping.

However, the j-pipe leaked horribly so I removed it and noticed the flange was warped. After some sanding I was able to get it to sit flush. My next move was to use the crap j-pipe bolts that came with the VRSF kit. They appear to be made of aluminium and without much effort I snapped the head off a bolt while tightening it. To make matters worse I tried to use an easy out to extract the bolt, the easy out snapped and there is now a piece lodged in the hollowed out screw.

So a note to anyone who buys this kit, do not use the j-pipe bolts that come with the kit and if you do USE ANTISEIZE!

Unless you guys know of a better way, I guess my only option is to buy a 1/8" drill bit and try to drill tiny hole around the easy out until it comes out. Then drill out the rest of the seized bolt and tap the hole.... or upgrade the turbo.
Click to expand...


These are the kinds of things I'm afraid of... I know it should be a 5 to 6 hour job, but knowing me, and knowing how all my DSM work goes, I'm guessing it's going to be a 3 or 4 day job for me :p
 
Looking back and knowing what I know now, I probably could've done it in a couple hours. If I would have taken the time to get steel bolts and tested the j-pipe flange I doubt this would've taken me more than an afternoon. The big time sink is having to put things together twice.

Using the guides here and learning from my mistakes, I have no doubt you could get it done in no time.
 
Nate355RS said:
Looking back and knowing what I know now, I probably could've done it in a couple hours. If I would have taken the time to get steel bolts and tested the j-pipe flange I doubt this would've taken me more than an afternoon. The big time sink is having to put things together twice.

Using the guides here and learning from my mistakes, I have no doubt you could get it done in no time.
Click to expand...

You overestimate my abilities :p Did you get any pics of everything installed?
 
Not yet, haven't had much time to work with it. I got the easy out free but bugered up the threads in the process. So I drilled the hole out and tried to run a colbalt bit through it to clean it for the tap... and the tip of the cobalt bit snapped off. So at this point I'm just going to punch the bit through, tap the hole to 10mm, dremel out the j-pipe a bit so the 10m bolt fits, and hopefully be done with it. The car seems to fight me every step of the way, but once I get it sealed leak test it to 30psi I'll be so freaking happy.
 
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I stole the jaffromobile monster can overlfow bottle idea. You can type his name into youtube and he has a video in his channel. The pic is all I have, because it's dark outside. Stupid planetary axis.
 

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