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Votech project- How this for a setup so far?

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I DSM KILLA I

10+ Year Contributor
120
1
Jan 11, 2009
Bensalem, Pennsylvania
Hey everyone!

Okay so I still haven't got to Extreme PSI (closed Saturdays now?!?! :confused:) but I have been looking at their site and want some opinions. Again, I am looking at 350HP-400HP but want the maintenence done right, the first time.

First from Jack's Transmissions, I am getting the AWD Case End Cover and other parts I need to repair the trans. Then I will be buying the 'Kit B Value' and the EVO III Conversion Kit to start the project. I still need to find an engine rebuild kit and a timing belt kit.

Now for my list of goodies:

ECMLink (DSMLink) V3: Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99

Mitsubishi TD05H EVO III Big 16G Turbo

Extreme Turbo Systems 7" Street Intercooler Kit (450HP)

JM Fab Sheetmetal Intake Manifold : Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99

HKS ver.3 SSQV Blowoff Valve: Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99

Injen IS Series Intake w/ BOV Recirculation: Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbo 95-99

Turbo XS High Performance Boost Controller

Megan Racing 3" Cat Back Exhaust System

Megan Racing 3" Downpipe

GReddy (Denso) 660cc Fuel Injectors

DriveShaft Shop Aluminum Rear Shaft 650HP

DriveShaft Shop Level 2 650HP Rear Axle Bar

DriveShaft Shop Level 2 650HP Front Axles

Tell me what you think so far?
 
I would go with a TiAL BOV instead of the SSQV. The axles and drive shaft are not needed and I would go with the Forced Performance intake pipe as well instead of the Injen. Since you are going with Link, I would get larger injectors too so you have room to grow. Say go with at least 1050's especially if you have the thought of going with E85 at all at some point or even considering for more power.
 
I don't think I am going to take it past 450HP in the next 10 years. Also I am thinking drive shaft isn't needed but I did want to get new axles, rotors, calipers, pads, and maybe new ball joints... should I stick with stock or spend the extra $$?
 
I would say go to larger injectors, then you have more room for improvement, plus DSMLink can control as big as you can afford

As far as IM goes, an Evo III and 1g TB would probably be a better buy.

If you want to do maintenance stuff, have you done your timing belt recently? I'd also recommend a set of ARP head studs in the future.

Lastly, are you going to be doing some serious autocrossing or what's with the driveshaft loops?
 
I'm still on stock axles and pushing around 30psi with an HX40. I cannot post numbers as I haven't taken it to a dyno. Take it for what it's worth.

If you are going to do ball joints, you might as well change out the suspension bushings too if you care about handling. The Energy Suspension kit (while fewer bushings than Prothane) made a HUGE difference in handling.

If you are going to be recirculating then get the TiAL QR. If venting then the TiAL Q is all you would need. As for injectors, stick with FIC (Fuel Injector Clinic).
 
I would say go to larger injectors, then you have more room for improvement, plus DSMLink can control as big as you can afford

As far as IM goes, an Evo III and 1g TB would probably be a better buy.

If you want to do maintenance stuff, have you done your timing belt recently? I'd also recommend a set of ARP head studs in the future.

Lastly, are you going to be doing some serious autocrossing or what's with the driveshaft loops?

Well as I posted in a previous post, My trans had 2 huge cracks in it so my local votech is using it as a project car for next year. I want to do all the maintenence I may need within 3 years now, while it is being done (the car has 108,000 miles). So I figure new seals, new axles, new calipers, linkage, suspension, the whole 9 yards. I am even buying a whole *slightly used* black interior to replace my black and tan interior. I figure if I am putting $5000+ into the car, I want it to last

I'm still on stock axles and pushing around 30psi with an HX40. I cannot post numbers as I haven't taken it to a dyno. Take it for what it's worth.

If you are going to do ball joints, you might as well change out the suspension bushings too if you care about handling. The Energy Suspension kit (while fewer bushings than Prothane) made a HUGE difference in handling.

If you are going to be recirculating then get the TiAL QR. If venting then the TiAL Q is all you would need. As for injectors, stick with FIC (Fuel Injector Clinic).

Well I would probably recirculate, that is after all why we have DSM's :D

Sounds good and keep the advice coming!

And Liquid you're only 2 hours from me (an hour in your DSM :D). Maybe I should just pay you to come and get the parts I need!
 
Well I would probably recirculate, that is after all why we have DSM's :D

You lost me here, being on ECMLink v3, you have the option of speed density which allows you to vent properly. Using a GM MAF in blowthrough will also allow you to vent properly too.
 
I'll just add to the advice given already, my response is in red.

Hey everyone!

Okay so I still haven't got to Extreme PSI (closed Saturdays now?!?! :confused:) but I have been looking at their site and want some opinions. Again, I am looking at 350HP-400HP but want the maintenence done right, the first time.

First from Jack's Transmissions, I am getting the AWD Case End Cover and other parts I need to repair the trans. Then I will be buying the 'Kit B Value' and the EVO III Conversion Kit to start the project. I still need to find an engine rebuild kit and a timing belt kit.

Is there something wrong with your engine that you need a rebuilding kit? Timing kit look into the gates/contitech etc for a nice, under $100 kit. Also make sure to get a balance shaft eliminator kit. If you're engine's in good condition (ie compression, no leaks,etc) your internals should be fine with your power goals. Just do an oem composite head gasket and ARP head studs when you do timing.

Now for my list of goodies:

ECMLink (DSMLink) V3: Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99
Scrap link, look into ecuflash/evoscan. It's much cheaper and has the support the evo guys have since it's their tuning device. Plus the only thing you need is a $170 cable and a $10 flashing connector and you're all set. Assuming you have a flashable ecu that is (most 99's do)

Mitsubishi TD05H EVO III Big 16G Turbo
Go with the Evo III, not the big 16g, it's a better turbo and will make your goals easier

Extreme Turbo Systems 7" Street Intercooler Kit (450HP)
For your power goals this is a bit unnecessary, a VRSF or Punishment racing kit will do you perfect at nearly half the cost

JM Fab Sheetmetal Intake Manifold : Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99
Again uneeded, people have proven that the factory manifold can handle quite a bit of power without needing upgraded

HKS ver.3 SSQV Blowoff Valve: Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99
Like stated, go with the Tial Q, or if you don't want to run speed density then go QR.

Injen IS Series Intake w/ BOV Recirculation: Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbo 95-99
FP or dejon tool both make a cheaper intake that will work just as well, even ebay intakes aren't bad.

Turbo XS High Performance Boost Controller
Look for a hallman pro, they can be had for about $75-80 and they are better quality then the Turbo xs (I have a turbo xs, and it sucks)

Megan Racing 3" Cat Back Exhaust System
Personal preference here, if this is the sound you want then moer power to you

Megan Racing 3" Downpipe

GReddy (Denso) 660cc Fuel Injectors
If you plan on staying on pump gas then these aren't horrible, 850+ would be ideal for you though if you plan on upgrading at all. For e85 look at 1000's minimum

DriveShaft Shop Aluminum Rear Shaft 650HP
Uneeded cost, you won't really benefit from it at all, the stocker is well proven to hold if you preload your transmission and don't just dump the clutch

DriveShaft Shop Level 2 650HP Rear Axle Bar
Same as above, it's uneeded cost

DriveShaft Shop Level 2 650HP Front Axles
Preloading your tranny and the stockers will hold up plenty long. You're goals are no where near the threshold for stock axles

Tell me what you think so far?

Hopefully my post doesn't seem offensive, I know I ripped your list apart, but that's the advice I have. You'll have spent less with just as nice a set up.

I'm sorry I may be mistaken but isn't that why people like stock DSM's because they recirculate instead of venting?



Also would these injectors be fine?

And again I am mechanically inclined most of the time :D so sometimes I don't make sense.

Ecmlink/ecuflash allows you to run speed density which lets you safely vent your bov without it hurting anything.
 
I'll just add to the advice given already, my response is in red.



Hopefully my post doesn't seem offensive, I know I ripped your list apart, but that's the advice I have. You'll have spent less with just as nice a set up.



Ecmlink/ecuflash allows you to run speed density which lets you safely vent your bov without it hurting anything.

All good advice. So stock axles are good for approximately 380HP because I would be buying new ones anyway? And any advice on the suspension linkage?

I would personally like to stay with Link just for their reputation alone. As far as the exhaust, I don't want noisy so any suggestions on that?

Also a little confused. You say go with the EVO III and not the Big 16G but isn't that what the "EVO III Big 16" is?
 
All good advice. So stock axles are good for approximately 380HP because I would be buying new ones anyway? And any advice on the suspension linkage?

I would personally like to stay with Link just for their reputation alone. As far as the exhaust, I don't want noisy so any suggestions on that?

Also a little confused. You say go with the EVO III and not the Big 16G but isn't that what the "EVO III Big 16" is?

Stock axles are good for however you drive the car. People are make way over your power on stock axles. If I remember right quite a few people are using them over 500+ (don't quote that).

Links reputation is very comparable with ecuflash. Look on the evo or subaru forums. That is what they use, it's the "link" of evo's, it just works with 98/99 ecu DSM's. Plus it's way cheaper with the same options available. I use it on my 2g's, 3g, friends evos, and subaru's and I like it more than link.

There's the MHI evo III and then the Big 16g. They aren't the same, if you do some searching around on here you'll find the regular 16g is actually better then the big 16g.
 
Stock axles are good for however you drive the car. People are make way over your power on stock axles. If I remember right quite a few people are using them over 500+ (don't quote that).

Links reputation is very comparable with ecuflash. Look on the evo or subaru forums. That is what they use, it's the "link" of evo's, it just works with 98/99 ecu DSM's. Plus it's way cheaper with the same options available. I use it on my 2g's, 3g, friends evos, and subaru's and I like it more than link.

There's the MHI evo III and then the Big 16g. They aren't the same, if you do some searching around on here you'll find the regular 16g is actually better then the big 16g.

I will give Ecuflash a look then. And I guess I will just buy stock axles and save some money. Well according to Extreme PSI's link I had it is an "MHI TD05H EVO III Big 16G" and that's the better one right?.

Also anyone know if EMPI axles are good?
 
Ecu flash is a good option for you since you have the right year. Will save some cash.

Yes thats the 16g that you want if you want to push a 16g.

Just go with oem axles, you wont break the stockers. Even redline launching you will break something else before the axles. Tbh i dont think ive ever seen an axles break on these cars. :hmm:
 
So stock intake manifold and stock exhaust with a Dejon intake, EVOIII Turbo, a downpipe, a catback exhaust, an FMIC, Ecuflash, balance shaft remover, and FIC 1100CC fuel injectors. Is that going to give me the power I want? And what would be my weakest link?
 
So stock intake manifold and stock exhaust with a Dejon intake, EVOIII Turbo, a downpipe, a catback exhaust, an FMIC, Ecuflash, balance shaft remover, and FIC 1100CC fuel injectors. Is that going to give me the power I want? And what would be my weakest link?

Don't forget you need a walbro 255 minimum and a fuel pressure regulator. You'll also need to decide if you want to keep your stock exhaust mani or upgrade (fp manifold or ported 2g are both very good), then decide if you want to stay internally wastegated or go external. External is better, but requires more money.
 
Well I have a $5000 minimum budget and with your guys advice, it looks like I may come out on top so I say add the extra. I want the car returned to almost new condition, and then add the performance. I am replacing/refurbishing 90% of the drivetrain, replacing the radiator, most hoses and other easy fixes to get another 10+ years out of this car.

Any other suggestions?
 
Looking at wastgates now. What size TiAL should I be looking at?

And If by chance I would want better camshafts and pistons, any suggetions?
 
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