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Viscous coupling removal questions.

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5150DSM

Supporting VIP
856
4
Jan 5, 2004
Sacramento, California
So I'm in the process of building up my trans a bit, got the end-clutches done, got the front clutches done, Kiggly flexplate is here and waiting, last item on the agenda is the center dif. (plan to have it welded) I got the dif out with no problem, pretty basic stuff, as for the viscous... different story. Right now I'm at the point where I have the center support exposed, I have 2 rods threaded in and the focker won't move so I can get to the pinche viscous. Additionally, I can't seem to figure out which bolt is the retainer stopper bolt, my manual has a shitty picture but the bolt doesn't seem to be where the arrow is pointing.

On to the actual questions. #1. Does the retainer stopper bolt need to be removed prior to the center support? #2. Where the fock is the retainer bolt? Is it under the valve body? (if so, I'm a dumbass) #3. Do I actually need to knock the output shaft out of the case to pull the viscous? #4 Anybody experienced in the Nor-Cal area want to get paid to come help me out?

I love building motors and I'm pretty good at it. I really don't ever want to touch another transmission.
 
One more thing. Is it even worth it to pull the viscous couple out if I'm having the dif welded? I've read that the dif can be a PITA to get back in once it's been welded. Jon at TRE offered to cut the viscous for me while they were welding up the dif but if the rotating mass lost isn't worth the trouble than maybe it's best just to leave it alone. Thoughts?
 
You don't even put the VC back in. Just leave it out. You have the support cocked on an angle. They should pull out decently easy. What you can do if put some heat into the case. Should expand a bit and make the support come out easier.
 
You don't even put the VC back in. Just leave it out. You have the support cocked on an angle. They should pull out decently easy. What you can do if put some heat into the case. Should expand a bit and make the support come out easier.

I thought I at least needed the collar on the VC to retain the ball on the output shaft. Did I misunderstand?
 
Got some info. In case others are looking to do this, there are a few steps missing from the write-ups that I have found. The retainer bolt is under the valve body so that needs to be removed before you can get the VC out. Also, the idler gear needs to come out before the VC will come out. You need to pull the lock bolt and idler shaft, then the gear will come out from the idler cover. I'll throw some pics up of what I'm talking about so there are some visual clues available. I'll try do do a write-up as well, if I feel that I can impart the correct info in such a way that is understandable. The only thing I still have a question on is whether or not the VC needs to be retained. The way I understand it, at least the collar needs to be present to hold the output shaft. Any input on this would be appreciated.
 
I still can't get this focking center support out. I have everything else out of the way, I'm a hair away from getting the VC out but this support is killing me. It's not side loaded or crooked in the bore, the coksucker just won't move, I guess I'll try some heat but I'm pretty leery about heating up the case. Anyone have an idea they can throw out before I go berzerk on this thing?
 
Fail.

I must be doing something wrong. I tried tapping on the case while pulling on the M6 bolts, I tried levering back and forth with a pry-bar, I tried prying from underneath through the stopper bolt hole; I'm currently out of ideas. I don't think I've even budged the thing.
 
Got the center support out, viscous is stuck but at least the first part of this mess is done with. I used two 7" lengths of M6 x 1.0 threaded rod, an 8" x 2" x 1/4" piece of flat stock with holes spaced to those on the support and two M6 nuts with washers. I laid the flat stock across the bore, threaded in the rods and the tightened the nuts down hand tight. I used a wooden marking stake as a lever/brace and a 16" prybar to release the support, it popped out in three good yanks with the pry bar, then I had a beer.

Next, I moved on to the VC thinking everything was gravy from here... evidently not. I knocked the output shaft out of the case to get more clearance and proceeded to start yanking on the VC; I used screwdrivers in pairs, small prybars and even made some little steel L-brackets that I tried to use like a mini-puller. I got the thing to move about 1/2" and then it just seemed to jam in the bore. Being very thin the little steel L's started to bend and the silly thing just dropped back in the bore. *sigh* Tomorrow, I am going to borrow a real puller from my buddy and hopefully yank this focking thing out. If anyone happens to have any brilliant ideas, please feel free to float them my way. Thanks guys for any and all suggestions.
 
The little tool I put together. $10 in material from Fastenal.

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Anyway, it worked.
 

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Hahaha my trans was this bad but the one I am working on just fell out LOL.
 
Hahaha my trans was this bad but the one I am working on just fell out LOL.

You suck.

Not really. I'm glad yours just fell out. I don't wish this on anyone. Oh well, I'll get it done. Maybe there's a trick I'm missing.
 
I left mine in when I welded the center diff because I didn't feel like dealing with this BS. Glad you got yours out finally. Quick question, nothing goes back in once it's out like in a 5spd? Any pics with it out?
 
There is no reason to reinstall it when doing a welded center on an auto. I don't have pictures but that is exactly how I do it to every auto I build.
 
I'm not doubting that...I just wasn't familiar with the auto when I did it and didn't want to screw anything up. I read it would work if it was left in so that's where it stayed. Next time I have it out for service i'll have to do the removal.
 
Success!!!!!

Fock this motherfocking viscous coupling! This has to have been the single most pain in the ass thing I have ever had the displeasure of doing on a DSM. I finally ended up buying a cheap 2 jaw puller over at Harbor Freight and then modifying it to fit in the bore and slide under the lip of the VC. Once I got the puller in position it took all of 30 seconds to get the focking thing out. Just goes to show, use the right tool for the job and stop :beatentodeath: Anyway, it's done. Also, got confirmation from John at IPT that I can leave this POS out. 8 or so pounds of rotating weight out of the trans. :hellyeah:
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