The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Questions on changing filter and valve body removal

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

91Bomb

15+ Year Contributor
908
7
Jul 15, 2003
US, New Jersey
I just got my N/T 2.0 1g very recently (still on 1st tank of gas)

The car had been sitting for a couple of winter months before I purchased it so I thought that I better flush out the trans and change the filter.

I was thinking about draining the fluid, refilling, driving it and then repeating the process 2 times. I guess I should change the filter ?after? I've done this?

The trans has presumably 147.000 mi on it. Would synthetic fluid be something that might be good for an old trans? Or would a combination be good like adding the synthetic on the final refill only and wind up with a 60/40 combination? The car is a daily driver only (no high speeds or racing) so I'm not worried about any added heat protection that the synthetics might provide but I've noticed a slight, momentary slippage while accelerating hard in 2nd or 3rd gear and was wondering whether synthetic fluid might help or aggravate this situation -- otherwise the shifts seem good and the trans seems in overall OK shape and normally doesn't slip. {I'm hoping the fluid and filter will help things out}

Once the filter is out is it hard to remove and re-install the valve body? (I would be doing this while lying on my back in my driveway)
If I can easily remove the valve body what should I be inspecting it for and cleaning it with?

Finally, are the pan gaskets different for all 3 A/T models? If this is the case I can get the filter and gasket from my local parts store and line up the gasket to the pan before removing it so I would know if I got the right gasket and filter kit before taking things apart. AND Approx. how nuch should the filter and gasket cost?

All ASAP responses are especially appreciated because I'd like to get out and do this tommorow afternoon (fri)
 
You'll get better (and smarter) answers than this, but I'd not mess much with one that.... established. My recommendation is having a competent, independent trans shop do a power flush, filter and adjustment. I have no guess how experienced you are with automatics, of course.
I'm not really all that much a fan of synthetics- not that I have anything against them specifically (other than how many aren't really "synthetic" anything), it's just that traditional oils have such effective additives packages these days that I don't think the cost is justified. I won't address the "makes seals leak" myth.
 
Anyone else here have experience with removing the valve body, inspecting and cleaning it
Or is it not rcommended to try this with no prior experience and while lying on one's back?

I've changed the filter on my last dsm so I'm at least going to drain the fluid and refill a couple of times and put a new fiter in and maybe this will help things a bit.

Are all trans fluids the same or do some have better additives than others? Any recomendations?
BTW, I was too lazy today so this job gets done hopefully very soon :)
 
I took my valve body out to clean the solenoids. Once I got everything out I was like oh crap, I'll never get this back together. The bolts are different sizes and there are tons of them. But I got it back together no problem, and then had to do it again since I messed up the manual valve position. As for inspecting and cleaning it, Im not so sure about that. That involves taking the valve body apart. There are balls and springs in there. Be careful!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top