Vacuum lines ok like this? *PICS*

[4g63telantra]

I have a magnus intake manifold and comes with a few xtra nipples.

Just wanted to know if its ok to run the vacuum lines like the way I have it now.


Also I do have 1 going to the brake booster and another one going into the FPR.

 

[4g63telantra]

Does the lines have to be "T"ed from BOV,INTAKE MANIFOLD AND MBC?

How do most people run this set up?

 

[WFO-TSi]

If you can get away with not “T’ing” you BOV with your MBC you will be better off. I used to have mine “T’ed” and it would cause by BOV to leak as soon as the MBC started bleeding off air.

The vacuum line running to the BOV, when pressurized keeps the BOV’s diaphragm closed. But when its “T’ed” to the MBC then once the MBC sends a pressurized signal to the wastgate (more importantly when air stars leaking out that hole in the plastic bleed fitting) then the pressurized air you need to keep the BOV closed is now being dissipated. Thus causing the BOV to leak.

 

[AWDrivinIT]

If thats exactly how you have it set up then its fine... more commonly for boost gauges,boost controllers, and etc. people will use T fitting's for the boost source being on a stock intake mani... usually aftermarket intake manifolds are set up just like you have it... hope i helped you out a lil or confirmed something for ya... good luck with your car...

 

[Crazyjoker77]

sorry to hijack this thread but i seem to be a problem and now that i hear this im almost positive that this is my problem. Im having a hard time spooling my turbo but i do have one vac line going to both my BOV and my MBC while the other nipple from the intake mani is going to that solanoid on the firewall and then back to another solenoid on the fuel rail. with a T in that for my boost gauge. now my question is since i only have 2 niples on my intake manifold how should I set it up

If you can get away with not “T’ing” you BOV with your MBC you will be better off. I used to have mine “T’ed” and it would cause by BOV to leak as soon as the MBC started bleeding off air.

The vacuum line running to the BOV, when pressurized keeps the BOV’s diaphragm closed. But when its “T’ed” to the MBC then once the MBC sends a pressurized signal to the wastgate (more importantly when air stars leaking out that hole in the plastic bleed fitting) then the pressurized air you need to keep the BOV closed is now being dissipated. Thus causing the BOV to leak.

 

[TimG]

sorry to hijack this thread but i seem to be a problem and now that i hear this im almost positive that this is my problem. Im having a hard time spooling my turbo but i do have one vac line going to both my BOV and my MBC while the other nipple from the intake mani is going to that solanoid on the firewall and then back to another solenoid on the fuel rail. with a T in that for my boost gauge. now my question is since i only have 2 niples on my intake manifold how should I set it up

Ok first off, that's not a solenoid on your fuel rail. It's the fuel pressure regulator.

Secondly, 90% of the time, your solution will be found by doing a boost leak test and fixing the leaks.

Thirdly, the wastegate vacuum line should always be sourced before the manifold. This could be at the j-pipe (stock), intercooler or intercooler piping. When you have your wastegate signal from your intake manifold, your turbo tends to work a lot harder then it should at part throttle boosting. It's been explained before and there was a huge argument about it but I'm in favor of having the signal sent from somewhere before the throttle body to the wastegate.

 

[Crazyjoker77]

okay but see I still have the problem of not having enuf vacuum lines as I have a RS49t which doesnt have any nipples as well as dejon intercooelr and piping with 3" gm mas also none of which has a nipple. also you got a link where they discussed the vauum lines in detail.

Ok first off, that's not a solenoid on your fuel rail. It's the fuel pressure regulator.

Secondly, 90% of the time, your solution will be found by doing a boost leak test and fixing the leaks.

Thirdly, the wastegate vacuum line should always be sourced before the manifold. This could be at the j-pipe (stock), intercooler or intercooler piping. When you have your wastegate signal from your intake manifold, your turbo tends to work a lot harder then it should at part throttle boosting. It's been explained before and there was a huge argument about it but I'm in favor of having the signal sent from somewhere before the throttle body to the wastegate.

 

[TimG]

http://www.ca.dsm.org/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=007526

http://www.ca.dsm.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=18;t=002085#000012

From the second link:

If you run the WG or controller off the intake manifold and it's set to 15psi then no matter what the throttle position is the boost controller and/or WG will be trying to make the manifold pressure 15psi. If you're at half throttle, you'll still get 15psi in the manifol,d, but about 30+ at the turbo outlet. This is bad for efficiency, and extremely bad for the turbo thrust bearing because it will have far more pressure on the compressor side than the turbine side. The driveability also sucks.

Trust me. I've seen MANY cars hooked up this way that had very poor boost modultion with the throttle, and i've seen MANY blown turbos as a result of this.

 

[4g63telantra]

If thats exactly how you have it set up then its fine... more commonly for boost gauges,boost controllers, and etc. people will use T fitting's for the boost source being on a stock intake mani... usually aftermarket intake manifolds are set up just like you have it... hope i helped you out a lil or confirmed something for ya... good luck with your car...

Thanks alot bud.

 

[crunchymilk]

I had an extra boost source welded to my j-pipe, made things much easier. I would highly recommend it.

 

[oldman]

okay but see I still have the problem of not having enuf vacuum lines as I have a RS49t which doesnt have any nipples as well as dejon intercooelr and piping with 3" gm mas also none of which has a nipple. also you got a link where they discussed the vauum lines in detail.

So what? Tap the end the compressor housing with a 1/8 npt to 1/8" fitting, many have done it including myself. A leaky BOV is just one of many negative effects of tapping the BOV line, if tapping the compressor housing really is that big of a project for you to handle, at least find another source and leave the BOV line alone.

4g63telantra, same goes for you, cap off the fitting for mbc in your diagram and find a source at compressor housing/j-pipe/licp, the closer to the turbo the better. Here is what I posted recently, you make your own decision.

Taking the pressure source from the j-pipe fitting has many benefits.

1. The main reason why alot of mbc instructions and some tech articles suggests to tap from the BOV line is because it's connected to the intake manifold, the argument is that this is more accurate because it's the same pressure the engine sees. In reality this is a non issue because the boost gauge is tap to the intake manifold no matter where you tap your mbc so there is no advantage in tapping the bov/manifold pressure as previously thought.

2. The proper functioning (opening and closing) of the bov depends greatly on the accuracy of the pressure in the vacuum hose you're thinking of tapping on or off boost so it's best to leave it connected directly to the manifold without any interference.

3. Tapping off the compressor/j-pipe offers the shortest vacuum hose route which greatly reduces the chance of boost spike.

4. In the case of boost leaks, tapping off the compressor/j-pipe will help prevent over boosting the turbo.

5. Hooking up a bleeder type mbc like the TurboXS standard mbc to the bov line will result in a vacuum leak as well as affect the working of the BOV.

 

[dragrush]

The rs-49 already has a tap in the compressor housing, which can be taken out with a allen wrench. Atleast mine does anyway.

 

[Crazyjoker77]

The rs-49 already has a tap in the compressor housing, which can be taken out with a allen wrench. Atleast mine does anyway.

thanks this helped alot and made my life alot easier but im still having problems after fixing my vac lines. all that i cured was my BOV flutter. and now i cant build more than 15psi of boost and it doesnt come on till 4500rpm my leak test now reveals that the only leaks i have are comming ffrom the RS49T comp cover and from the adjusting screw on my bov (now my bov is staying closed during the BLT) so what can be causing my problem.

 

[oldman]

How much pressure were you able to maintain in the intake tract and for long did it hold after you remove the compressor? I'm asking for the boost gauge reading, not what you set the compressor regulator to.

 

[dragrush]

AGP does not use a gasket on their compressor housing, to fix the problem you can take it off and put rtv on the cover bolts. Check this thread out http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189117&highlight=rs49t+leak
And for the boost leak from the BOV adjustment, try putting a little teflon tape on the screw and see if that helps.