Vacuum Hoses?

[JohnnyT]

I am looking to replace all of my vacuum hoses because they look like they need it. I was wondering if anyone had tried this let me know. Any other help would be great.

 

[staticbrainwash]

Yes, people replace line with silicone. But get good line like from RRE. Also, if you want since you're there, you might want to think about doing a vac redux too.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Or better yet, eliminate the hoses altogether. By doing this:

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You can gain performance by eliminating possible boost leaks and make the engine bay look a lot cleaner.

 

[98mitsuGSX-SD]

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/nwdsm_larsonhosehasitsownpagenow.htm

Follow the link. Good buy!

 

[JohnnyT]

Or better yet, eliminate the hoses altogether. By doing this:

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You can gain performance by eliminating possible boost leaks and make the engine bay look a lot cleaner.

So, If I follow this everything should work just fine? And I can use less tubing? WHat about hooking a boost controller into the j-pipe, isn't that where it is supposed to go? I have heard bad things about using the BOV tube for the wastegate and boost controller, or are those just tales? And what is a vac redux?

 

[staticbrainwash]

Use the j-pipe, you should already have a source there anyway. Otherwise yes, follow the pic. You will be VERY happy with how much cleaner and less leaky your engine is.

 

[Smitherines]

I have a newb question, .

So the J-Pipe is definitely the best place to tap for the MBC, but what about an AFPR and the Boost Gauge? Any optimal tap locations for those?

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Use the j-pipe, you should already have a source there anyway. Otherwise yes, follow the pic. You will be VERY happy with how much cleaner and less leaky your engine is.

I have a newb question, .

So the J-Pipe is definitely the best place to tap for the MBC, but what about an AFPR and the Boost Gauge? Any optimal tap locations for those?

The choice on where to tap for a boost controller has been a great debate in the DSM community. Both sides of the arguement of valid points. Neither really can disprove the other and neither has been the cause of critical engine failure. So again, it's really just personal choice. I "personally" have my EBC hooked up to both.

As for the AFPR, use the stock hose for the stock FPR. And the boost gauge should be tapped on the line going to the AFPR/FPR.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Here ya go, here are the possibilities.

Here is the traditional way.

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Here is the revoltionary way.

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This is my personal EBC setup.

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[JohnnyT]

What does EBC solenoid stand for/what is it? Hope this isn't some question I know the answer to, and if it is I am sorry.

 

[snowborder714]

What does EBC solenoid stand for/what is it? Hope this isn't some question I know the answer to, and if it is I am sorry.

EBC - Electronic Boost Controller

As you can see, that pic doesn't have an MBC because he's using an electronic boost controller.

 

[JohnnyT]

Oh, okay, ya I just bought an AEM tru-boost so I will be doing the same. And do I just cap off all those lines and what they went to?

 

[JohnnyT]

I was also wondering how much tubing and what size anyone would recommend for my car? I will be using the EBC setup. Oh, and I was also wondering, I only have 2 vacuum lines where it shows 4 on yours, how do I do my setup.

 

[xxShaneOmac]

A friend of mine is getting the larson hose kit. Ill let you know how it goes.

 

[snowborder714]

And do I just cap off all those lines and what they went to?

Not sure what you mean by this... Are you talking about the caps on the throttle body nipples? If you're eliminating emissions (and if you're talking about the throttle body), cap off the nipples on the throttle body and just leave the other ends open (where those lines connected to).

I was also wondering how much tubing and what size anyone would recommend for my car? I will be using the EBC setup. Oh, and I was also wondering, I only have 2 vacuum lines where it shows 4 on yours, how do I do my setup.

The tubing lengths and sizes will vary so your best bet is to figure out how you want to route them and then take a string or flexible tape measure and measure the length that way. And if you have hoses already on there, take those with you for ID (inner diameter) size reference. If not, see if you have any hose lying around that'd fit.

Again, you only have 2 vacuum lines where it shows 4...are you talking about the throttle body? That's the only place I see 4.

 

[JohnnyT]

Ya, I am talking about the throttle body, i only have 2 lines going to where his 4 are. Does that change things? And let me get this straight, I should cap off the ones on the throttle body and just not worry about where they go to, leave that open? Sorry for so many questions, my car is at home and I am at college but I want to get things straight before I work on it.

 

[snowborder714]

Ya, I am talking about the throttle body, i only have 2 lines going to where his 4 are. Does that change things? And let me get this straight, I should cap off the ones on the throttle body and just not worry about where they go to, leave that open? Sorry for so many questions, my car is at home and I am at college but I want to get things straight before I work on it.

I forgot the 90 tb's are different. Where do the 2 hoses go that come off of it? I tried a quick search here but couldn't find anything. I shouldn't change things though. You should still just be able to pull the lines and cap them off on the tb and be good. But let me know where they go and I can probably help you out a bit more.

Don't worry about asking a lot of questions as it's the best way to find out exactly what you're looking for! And I feel for you - I'm at college and my car is at home, not running yet

 

[JohnnyT]

HAHA, ya my car isn't running either, just did a fmic and I think my turbo died, but still unsure and very confused. You can't do alot of trouble shooting from 3 hours away. I will pm you when I go home and see. Until then anyone who knows about the 90's throttle body let me know.

 

[oldman]

The choice on where to tap for a boost controller has been a great debate in the DSM community. Both sides of the arguement of valid points. Neither really can disprove the other and neither has been the cause of critical engine failure. So again, it's really just personal choice. I "personally" have my EBC hooked up to both.

That is absolutely not true, that debate is between using manifold pressure vs. compressor pressure, nothing to do with the BOV line. The main issue with tapping the BOV line really isn't about accuracy of boost controlling, it's about the proper functioning of the BOV due to pressure bleed off through the boost controller, if you still have doubts, perform a boost leak leak test without disabling the boost controller and see what happens to your BOV as pressure starts to bleed off through the MBC/EBC's bleeder hole. Bleeder type valves like the Turbo XS or EBC's are even worse because it's not only a boost leak causing premature opening of the BOV under boost, it's also a vacuum leak which can cause BOV flutter/compressor surge after letting off as well as leaner AFR during idle and part throttle. If manifold pressure is what you desire and you have a solid ball/spring MBC, source another dedicated manifold pressure line and leave your BOV line alone.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

You have 4.

Two on top, two on the side. facing the front of the car.

 

[snowborder714]

So, then since you do have 4 ports according to the above post (he has a '90 as well), just follow the image laserspeeddemon posted with his EBC setup and you should be good to go!

Whenever you block them off, I'd recommend putting zip ties around them just to make sure there are no leaks.

 

[oldman]

So, then since you do have 4 ports according to the above post (he has a '90 as well), just follow the image laserspeeddemon posted with his EBC setup and you should be good to go!

I guess you didn't read my post, I will say it again, LEAVE THE BOV LINE ALONE.

 

[snowborder714]

I guess you didn't read my post, I will say it again, LEAVE THE BOV LINE ALONE.

Sorry, I didn't! I clicked on laserspeeddemon's post from the iSpy feature and your post was hidden since it goes right to his post. I'm still trying to get used to that...

 

[laserspeeddemon]

That is absolutely not true, that debate is between using manifold pressure vs. compressor pressure, nothing to do with the BOV line. The main issue with tapping the BOV line really isn't about accuracy of boost controlling, it's about the proper functioning of the BOV due to pressure bleed off through the boost controller, if you still have doubts, perform a boost leak leak test without disabling the boost controller and see what happens to your BOV as pressure starts to bleed of through the MBC/EBC's bleeder hole. Bleeder type valves like the Turbo XS or EBC's are even worse because it's not only a boost leak causing premature opening of the BOV under boost, it's also a vacuum leak which can cause BOV flutter/compressor surge after letting off as well as leaner AFR during idle and part throttle. If manifold pressure is what you desire and you have a solid ball/spring MBC, source another dedicated manifold pressure line and leave your BOV line alone.

I think you're taking information from both of my posts. The post you quoted wasn't about selection of the BOV line. It was about the compressor vs manifold debate, as you said. My second post displays the use of the BOV line, but thats not what I was recommending.

And my EBC bleeds the line from the compressor line not signal line (BOV line).

**edit** At least thats what I thought. Come to think of it. I've boost leak tested it with the IGN off, perhaps I will have a different results if I turn the IGN on, when the soleniod is modulating (would be) boost.

Just out of curiosity, where do you tap your MBC?

 

[oldman]

I think you're taking information from both of my posts. The post you quoted wasn't about selection of the BOV line. It was about the compressor vs manifold debate, as you said. My second post displays the use of the BOV line, but thats not what I was recommending.

I was going by all the diagrams you posted which all showed the BOV line instead of a dedicated manifold line as pressure source. As long as we are clear that the BOV line is not to be used as boost reference for a controller under any circumstances, I'm good with it.

Another thing not to follow on the diagram is the disabling of the FPS (Fuel Pressure Solenoid) if you're still on the stock fuel pump, this is especially important when you're located in hotter regions.

Come to think of it. I've boost leak tested it with the IGN off, perhaps I will have a different results if I turn the IGN on, when the soleniod is modulating (would be) boost.

That will definitely make a difference since the solenoid is closed off when ignition is off.