2G Upper Control Arm

[XiKeiyaZI]

Having a terrible issue here and it has me pretty stumped. I'm trying to change my driver side axle and so far everything has come apart easily, I even got the nut off in the picture below with minimal aggression. Now that I have it off and need to separate the Hub assembly from the upper control arm, the bolt will not budge. It's like it's fused inside of the hole. I've smacked it, pried it (Not like there is a good place to pry), wedged it, everything. It's been soaking in penetration oil for a while now and it just won't budge.

Does anyone happen to have any suggestions? I'm stumped. ;|

 

[dexterholland04]

Try a pickle fork? Should separate it.

 

[snowborder714]

Well, if it won't come out with a good whack from a sledge hammer or a pickle fork, I'd go rent a ball joint puller tool. Something that will push the stud up through the knuckle hole is probably your best shot.

 

[greengoblin]

Smacking the knuckle is your best bet. You could remove the entire hub and try a press. That however will pretty much destroy the the ball joint though.

 

[nickk90]

Hit the knuckle with a hammer a few good times(where the stud on the ball joint is going thru) Then put the nut back on and give it a wack and it should come free.

 

[2slow4now]

I always thread a nut on to protect the threads and smack it with a brass hammer. The shaft to the ball joint is tapered. If your already to the point of taking it off you might consider just putting a new ball joint in anyways.

If your just going to replace an axle you don't have to take any of your ball joints apart. Just remove the two nuts holding the upper A arm on in the engine compartment and the front lower control arm at the frame and the lower shock mount on the lower front control arm and you should be able to swing it out and remove the axle. Its pretty quick to do as long as your axle isn't stuck in the hub.

 

[boosteclipse]

Pickle fork and a large hammer with a couple strong whacks.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Well, if it won't come out with a good whack from a sledge hammer or a pickle fork, I'd go rent a ball joint puller tool. Something that will push the stud up through the knuckle hole is probably your best shot.

That's what I'm figuring at this point. Been using an old school wooden mallet so as to not damage the threads.

I always thread a nut on to protect the threads and smack it with a brass hammer. The shaft to the ball joint is tapered. If your already to the point of taking it off you might consider just putting a new ball joint in anyways.

If your just going to replace an axle you don't have to take any of your ball joints apart. Just remove the two nuts holding the upper A arm on in the engine compartment and the front lower control arm at the frame and the lower shock mount on the lower front control arm and you should be able to swing it out and remove the axle. Its pretty quick to do as long as your axle isn't stuck in the hub.

Nothing is stuck save for this single bolt. Usually what I do is release this bolt and then the lower control and that allows me full swing to remove the axle. Either way I know this is stuck now which means that it has to be looked into otherwise It'll drive me crazy.

 

[snowborder714]

Wooden mallet? WTF

Put a nut on a couple threads so it's still sticking off the end of the stud a bit and whack it. You won't ruin the threads.

 

[99gst_racer]

A pickle fork has always worked for me. Just make sure the lube it up well to help prevent friction from tearing the boot.

 

[importracr317]

A pickle fork has always worked for me. Just make sure the lube it up well to help prevent friction from tearing the boot.

This. Also, smack the area next to the hole with a sledge hammer or 20oz steel hammer....I saw an article on youtube awhile ago that recommended this instead of using a pickle fork. It actually works. Use a pickle fork in conjunction with a few well placed "whacks" should have that joint seperated quickly, without damage to the boot.

Here's a link to the tool in question BTW - available at most auto parts stores....

Ball Joint Separator | AutoZone.com

 

[jtmcinder]

Heat the knuckle.

 

[bryanwheat]

Just use a bigger hammer, i've got a 4 lb sledge and it takes 1 or 2 hits. You just aren't hitting it hard enough i promise. Also where are you hitting it, on the stud or the spindle? Also if you don't want to damage the joint or boot don't use a pickel fork. I haven't used one for years and get every ball joint apart that i try with my hammer.

 

[hotrodssnova]

+1 on the 4 pound sledge. A wooden hammer doesn't have enough mass. You are creating a shock wave that breaks the two parts apart. A small sledge will do the trick.

 

[knochgoon24]

I've a fan of this style myself.

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Just tighten the bolt until it pops. Nothing to swing.

 

[2slow4now]

That's what I'm figuring at this point. Been using an old school wooden mallet so as to not damage the threads.



Nothing is stuck save for this single bolt. Usually what I do is release this bolt and then the lower control and that allows me full swing to remove the axle. Either way I know this is stuck now which means that it has to be looked into otherwise It'll drive me crazy.

Yep! That works but what I was saying is to leave the ball joint alone and leave the upper control arm attached and take the two nuts off that hold the upper control arm to the chassis. That way you don't risk ruining your ball joint. No pickle fork, no "whackin" or torn up dust boot! Just unbolt the upper control arm, lower control arm, not even mess with the ball joints, and swing it out of the way. I leave the torsion arm still bolted to the chassis so you don't even have to crawl around on the floor.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Not going to lie, I never want to touch the suspension on a 2g again. I removed the entire upper control arm, man handled the hub assembly, and got my axle out and the new one in. Now...I didn't realize how big of a pain getting the upper control back IN would be and basically had to lift the damn driver side of the car with my shoulder with some sort of contortionist movements and got both of the bolts back in somewhere around an hour later. Now I have a new issue.

I went to bolt the carrier area of the axle to the block and found out why the old one wasn't bolted up - both holes have broken bolts in them. Damnit. Now I either have to create some sort of brace or fanaggle a tap in there and tap it out.....yup. Might just....get rid of it. Haha.

 

[bryanwheat]

Yep! That works but what I was saying is to leave the ball joint alone and leave the upper control arm attached and take the two nuts off that hold the upper control arm to the chassis. That way you don't risk ruining your ball joint. No pickle fork or torn up dust boot!

It works better to just unbolt the lower control arms from the bottom of the car and swing it out. You have more room and don't have to remove the brake caliper or caliper hose.

Not going to lie, I never want to touch the suspension on a 2g again. I removed the entire upper control arm, man handled the hub assembly, and got my axle out and the new one in. Now...I didn't realize how big of a pain getting the upper control back IN would be and basically had to lift the damn driver side of the car with my shoulder with some sort of contortionist movements and got both of the bolts back in somewhere around an hour later. Now I have a new issue.

I went to bolt the carrier area of the axle to the block and found out why the old one wasn't bolted up - both holes have broken bolts in them. Damnit. Now I either have to create some sort of brace or fanaggle a tap in there and tap it out.....yup. Might just....get rid of it. Haha.

With a jack and a pry bar it takes less than 1 minute to get the control arm back studs back thru the holes with the nuts on. As far as the axle carrier bolts, don't attempt to rig anything. Extract the bolts and get oem bolts for this. Most of the time you can take a chisel and back the bolts out. You will want to remove the ac mounting bracket to get to the driver side bolt hole in the block (that bolt goes thru the bracket and then into the block.

 

[2slow4now]

That would work well too! Well I guess we all gave him alot of options. I do like the look of that separator tool up a few posts but I just prefer to whack it. Thanks for the tip Bryan I might try that next time.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

With a jack and a pry bar it takes less than 1 minute to get the control arm back studs back thru the holes with the nuts on. As far as the axle carrier bolts, don't attempt to rig anything. Extract the bolts and get oem bolts for this. Most of the time you can take a chisel and back the bolts out. You will want to remove the ac mounting bracket to get to the driver side bolt hole in the block (that bolt goes thru the bracket and then into the block.

Yeah, come tell that to my vehicle, cause you know.. I just personally spent the past hour of my life getting things aligned and the bolts back through with the proper supports, lift, and pry bars.

It's more sarcasm about fabbing up a support. Unfortunately it has been this way for a while so the amount of rust and build up in there is going to be relentless when it comes to getting the pieces out. The amount of things in the way is going to make it next to impossible to have room to move around and get properly situated to extract the broken bolts, so besides lower/pulling the engine it's a bit distressing.

 

[bryanwheat]

Yeah, come tell that to my vehicle, cause you know.. I just personally spent the past hour of my life getting things aligned and the bolts back through with the proper supports, lift, and pry bars.

It's more sarcasm about fabbing up a support. Unfortunately it has been this way for a while so the amount of rust and build up in there is going to be relentless when it comes to getting the pieces out. The amount of things in the way is going to make it next to impossible to have room to move around and get properly situated to extract the broken bolts, so besides lower/pulling the engine it's a bit distressing.

It would be rather easy to just drop down the subframe, that will give you plenty of room to get to the bolts. You will just have to unbolt the control arms from both sides, unbolt the steering shaft, ps lines, rear mount, tie rods and than unbolt it and drop it down.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

To be honest? To get, at least, a single bolt hole clear - I'd rather not go through that kind of work. If it were something more important like a damaged motor mount, drive shaft issue, transfer case mounting issue, or anything else I'd be all for it. I'd much rather load it onto a trailer and let some kid buy it than go through disassembling that much crap, replace seals, fluids, etc, and devote that much more time into doing it for something so menial.

Then again I'm pretty irritated at the moment.

 

[bryanwheat]

To be honest? To get, at least, a single bolt hole clear - I'd rather not go through that kind of work. If it were something more important like a damaged motor mount, drive shaft issue, transfer case mounting issue, or anything else I'd be all for it. I'd much rather load it onto a trailer and let some kid buy it than go through disassembling that much crap, replace seals, fluids, etc, and devote that much more time into doing it for something so menial.

Then again I'm pretty irritated at the moment.

For a few hours worth of work you'd have to be lazy not to fix that.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

For a few hours worth of work you'd have to be lazy not to fix that.

Yup, cause being out there for 2 days getting various things done is lazy. Again, in my current mindset - 2 broken bolt holes does not equate to 2 hours worth of work droppings various bits of shit from the car - most of which I just got through dropping and reassembling.

 

[bryanwheat]

Yup, cause being out there for 2 days getting various things done is lazy. Again, in my current mindset - 2 broken bolt holes does not equate to 2 hours worth of work droppings various bits of shit from the car - most of which I just got through dropping and reassembling.

Yeah, but is isn't just broken bolts, that is putting a load on your differential bearings not having the shaft bolted to the block. It will also wear out the splines in the transmission and on the intermediate shaft.