The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G Front upper control arm

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

alexr254

Proven Member
313
152
Jun 18, 2021
Palm Coast, Florida
So I had to replace mine on a 99 Spyder.
It was a total PITA to get it off.
I had to eventually heat it with a torch and use a fork.

Is there a torque spec I should be following when I install the new one?
For the nut that goes into the joint?
 
Last edited:
Here’s a screen shot from the FSM I have saved on my phone. See post above to save a copy for yourself to reference.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Thank you both!
I really appreciate the link and the image.
Exactly what I needed. Whoever tightened the last control arm wayyy over tightened it. And made it really tough to get off.
I don’t want to make the same mistake.
 
What's the purpose of setting the angle to 85 degrees?

What about if the car is lowered?

I'm thinking install it with those bolts loose, put the weight of the car on the brake rotor (with wood), then tighten the bolts. Wouldn't that be the natural resting point?

Anyone see any issues doing it that way?
 
What's the purpose of setting the angle to 85 degrees?

What about if the car is lowered?

I'm thinking install it with those bolts loose, put the weight of the car on the brake rotor (with wood), then tighten the bolts. Wouldn't that be the natural resting point?

Anyone see any issues doing it that way?
That’s how I would do it, too.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top