The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Unorthodox Racing Lightened Pulleys - Squeeling When Cold...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SpawnedX

Banned Member
4,016
56
May 18, 2004
West Warwick, Rhode Island
Ok, so I put on Unorthodox Crank, Water Pump and Alternator pulleys (I have eliminated AC and PS from my car). I can hear a little extra crank rotation noise, which is pretty normal for lightened and under-drive pulleys. I am using the stock belt, and have tightened the adjuster all the way up and it has good tension, definitely not loose and I don't think it is tight, I would say just right.

When it is really cold outside I get what sounds like a rubbing or squeaking noise from what seems like the crank pulley area, soon as it warms up it is gone, but it goes away gradually throughout the temperature range. Belt is in good shape.

Anyone had a similar experience/resolution? It shows no sign of rubbing anywhere. I am also wondering, since noise travels, would a too lose alternator pulley do this only under heavier load?

I should probably define heavier load, the battery is pretty much dead, so when I get the car running even turning the radio on will cause her to die, so the alternator is doing all the work.
 
If your battery is actually that dead your alternator is working like a horse! I would definitely say charge the battery up to atleast 12.4V and stick it back in.

If you're car is dying that easy, it could also be your alternator. A typical old test(don't do this) was to disconnect the negative from the battery. Making the alternator run everything on its own.

So since your car wont even run with the radio on, I'm leaning towards alternator..
 
No offense, but when does the bad information cycle stop on this site.

1. Our cars do not have harmonic BALANCERS.

2. Our engine is balanced internally, the cranks included, this is why we have balance shafts. To balance the engine internally, which is why a lot of these people always forget that they removed the shaft and put on lightweight pulleys and had issues, the same issues they would have with the OEM crank pulley.

Before I purchased these, I did ton of research on it, including wading through the crap.

Unorthodox Racing

Once again this post is in no way shape or form towards snowboarder, I have no idea his level of involvement in technical knowledge. He could have read the same misconceptions and trusted them on face value. I just want to clear the air for people who did not buy pulleys for this reason alone.

It may be the belt, this I agree.
 
Last edited:
Snowboarder knows his stuff...there is a resaon that he has claimed the title of moderator whereas everyone else is just a proven member. If our engine is balanced internally so perfectly it shouldnt need balance shafts from the factory....Now what happens when you pop out the balance shafts...more vibration is felt...

Why is it that Unorthodox and other companies make cheap underdrive pulleys....But fluidamper and ati crank pulleys cost much much more compared to their cheap counterparts....now why would that be....lets see 1 is just a chunk of aluminum with no vibration resistance....vs well built assembly that helps with excess engine vibrations....
regardless you should always use an OEM crank pulley setup(unless you run fluidamper or ati...)
 
We need balance shafts, because our crank does not sit true center in the block.

Call Mitsubishi and ask them to look up a harmonic dampener, and they will promptly sell you a crankshaft pulley.

If you take everything a moderator says at face value because they hold the moderator title, then best of luck to you. I don't know how much information you guys need before you start thinking on your own but good luck. I am done helping people. In fact I will post one more helpful post.

If you are having an air/fuel problem, it's your ECU, at least one of the first 3 people to respond will tell you that.
 
No offense, but when does the bad information cycle stop on this site.

1. Our cars do not have harmonic dampeners.

2. Our engine is balanced internally, the cranks included, this is why we have balance shafts. To balance the engine internally, which is why a lot of these people always forget that they removed the shaft and put on lightweight pulleys and had issues, the same issues they would have with the OEM crank pulley.

Before I purchased these, I did ton of research on it, including wading through the crap.

Unorthodox Racing

Once again this post is in no way shape or form towards snowboarder, I have no idea his level of involvement in technical knowledge. He could have read the same misconceptions and trusted them on face value. I just want to clear the air for people who did not buy pulleys for this reason alone.

It may be the belt, this I agree.

this is false.... its to stop or eliminate engine vibration.
 
ok... my 4.3 in my blazer has balance shafts... its internally balanced. before 96 there were no balance shafts still internally balanced. the balance shafts were added to stop unwanted shaking and vibrations. the balance shafts have nothing to do with the balancing of the rotating assembly
 
Neither does the pulley. Our crankshafts are balanced. We do not have harmonic dampeners. There is a torsional vibration dampener between the pulley and the sprocket. There is no balancing done with the pulley.

This torsional vibration dampener is suppose to guard against the crank wanting to "overturn" under change in accessory loads and detonation.

There is always this "possibly" bad for your engine mentality, but the only subsequent proof ever provided was a thread a long time ago on a BMW site. No one can provide any real proof of it damaging a motor.
 
It has been known for a while that mitsu motors require a harmonic crank pulley.
Power gains from a undersized crank pulley will be minimal to non-existent, and kinda of pointless on a turbo motor, just turn up the boost 1/2 a psi.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
If you really think an un-dampened pulley caused that crank to split, you have a ways of learning to go. Worn bearings do not cause your crank to split in half.

Our motors are balanced from factory, the crank, rods and pistons, not the entire rotating assembly, which is what you are paying machine shops to do.

I planned on replacing my bearings every year, so I am not concerned with what may end up showing as faster than normal wear at 100K miles as compared to stock.
 
Yes a a under drive pulley can cause a crank to break like that. The Dampener that comes stock on our motors is there so that it can absorb the flex of the crank under a load.
 
I want you to think about this logically, just once...

If there is enough flex to snap your crank...you really think a thin piece of rubber on a 2 piece pulley is not going to give first....because this pulley is basically bolted to your crank. In fact the pivot point of the rubber is between an entire crank, sprocket and pulley, with the other side a thin pulley. Trust me, this "dampener" is not going to save you from that much flex.
 
I'm sorry, but could someone post up a testimonial that isn't from a company that makes harmonic dampeners to make money.

Our crankshafts are balanced, so the issue is not with harmonics, it is with vibrations. The real name of this part outside of crankshaft pulley is vibration. So far in theory from what you are saying is that the rubber is dissipating this vibration. If that is the case, a simple rubber padding between the sprocket and pulley would serve the same purpose.
 
To answer the OP, aluminum pulley's suck at not squeaking, they just slip till they grab.

And yes, the harmonic damper is called just that, to dampen harmonics, ie vibrations, yes, enough to break a crankshaft.

Want a DIY test of harmonics? Go break a spark plug ceramic and throw it at a car window.

Now how did that 0.2g piece of ceramic blow through that window that you probably couldn't punch through? Your telling me you can't punch harder than you can throw a 0.2g piece of ceramic?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top