type s install and MBC question

[yup talon]

yesterday i installed a greddy intercooler piping kit and a greddy type s BOV. i drove up and down the street a few times to get out and adjust it. at first it would just flutter a lot, then after loosening it almost to the point of where it feels like the screw is going to come out, it still flutters a bit, and the high pitched noise is minimal. (even at high boost, it only chirps for a short second as compared to my old 1g bov) a few more runs later, i noticed my car idleing funny, and my exhaust manifold was getting red hot. (ive never seen it red hot before)

i figured there must be a boost leak or something, but after testing it for leaks, the only hiss i heard was coming from my hallman pro boost controller. on the side of one of the inlets, theres a tiny hole, thats the only leak i found. is that normal? the hole doesnt look like an accident so im figuring its there for a reason.

ive got the top nipple on the bov connected to the mbc/intake mani. the bottom nipple is hooked up to the comp housing on my T25.


does anyone have any ideas or suggestions on how to fix the rough idle, and how to adjust the bov correctly, and just anything that could be causing a problem after a type s install and i/c piping install.

 

[CyberEye]

are you recerculating it or venting it?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

the hole in the MBC is supposed to be there. dont cover it or anything.

as for tuning the type s.. this is what i do.

havae the car at idle, TIGHTEN it all the way down. then rev and blow off. keep loosening the BOV 1 full [360*] until you can hear the BOV blow off at idle. then tighten it 1 full turn. hop in the car, and then do your fine tuning. I usually take a 1/4 turn and test it at full boost in 2nd gear.

after a while you'll hear the type s whistle. then start fine tuning at 1/8 turns. btw, it sounds like your BOV is waaaaaaaaay too loose.

i'm sure you have your MBC hooked up correctly but to make sure, TEE into the bov/intakemani line to the side of the MBC, the WGA needs to be connected to the bottom port of the MBC.

most people leave the bottom nipple open [ vented to atmosphere ] . you may want to try unplugging it..

 

[yup talon]

cybereye - im not venting.

blcknspo0ln - thanks a lot for the tuning tip. also, i did have the bottom nipple left unplugged at first, it idled worse at that time. ...now when you say that i should tighten it all the way down, then start loosen it until i hear it blow off, does that mean i should just start hearing air seeping out the outlet back into the intake tube? where will i feel/hear it blowing off ?

is there such a thing as 'breaking it in' for a BOV? i thought i read somewhere that it takes a bit for it to start working properly.

 

[GSX0TIC]

i have my halman mbc t'ed off between the bov and intake manifold and the other part of my mbc is connected to the wastegate actuator....not the t25 comp house itself...the nipple on the t25, and wastegate solenoids are capped off as well as one hole on the factory rubber intake...as far as bov....i dont have a greddy type s....

 

[skinnypimp]

i'm sure you have your MBC hooked up correctly but to make sure, TEE into the bov/intakemani line to the side of the MBC, the WGA needs to be connected to the bottom port of the MBC.

well do you plug off the line on the intake pipe??? i have an injen intake, the on that come from the stock boost solinoid

 

[yup talon]

well do you plug off the line on the intake pipe??? i have an injen intake, the on that come from the stock boost solinoid

yes you do plug off the intake pipe nipple after you've installed a MBC