Turbo went out, high milage, worth fixing?

[blazin_teg]

I have a 99 eclipse gsx. Has 165,000 miles on it. All stock. The turbo just recently went out. When I checked it, it had about 1/3 inch forward and back shaft play. Blows huge amount of smoke on shift and I noticed its leaking alot of oil from th oil filler cap now. My question is, is it worth fixing. I would hate to drop about 2500 on upgrades on a tired motor. I was planning on goin with a fp big 28, manifold, turbo outlet and bigger injectors. With other supporting mods. Already have ecmlink. Last time I did a compression test it was about 155 across the board. Car was never driven hard, I bought it from an older lady who bought it new. The car ran really good before the turbo went out. Just wanted some opinions on if it's worth fixing. I don't have the money for a 6 bolt swap or rebuild. If its not worth fixing I'll prob just sell the car.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Jusmx141 can fix the turbo if you don't want to spend $ on upgrades..

 

[knochgoon24]

Jusmx141 can fix the turbo if you don't want to spend $ on upgrades..

A T-25 (stock turbo) usually isn't worth fixing, especially if the wheels have hit the housing. With a third of an inch of play, they have.

OP, if you're looking to stay mostly stock, get a 14b. Get a 14b/16g/20g install kit and call it a day.

EDIT:

Links to kits:

RRE:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g16ginstallkit.htm

CXRacing:
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...roduct_Code=TRB-TD05-ACS-Combo&Category_Code=

 

[Alan11]

It is more than worth fixing. Look around for turbos . Or message jusmix141 for a rebuild.( not worth in a t-25)

 

[blazin_teg]

Well I would like to upgrade. I always feel like when something like that goes out its time to. I really don't want to just put another factory one back on. Also one more thing on the engine I forgot to mention. Sometimes when I crank it, while its turning over it will sound like one cylinder has lost compression. and when it cranks up it will putt like there is a zero compression cylinder as well. I can turn the engine off and crank it again and that symptom is gone. It would run just fine. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing. It has done that for about a year. Actually it started when I installed ecmlink i believe.

 

[Anubis_4_99]

Well I would like to upgrade. I always feel like when something like that goes out its time to. I really don't want to just put another factory one back on. Also one more thing on the engine I forgot to mention. Sometimes when I crank it, while its turning over it will sound like one cylinder has lost compression. and when it cranks up it will putt like there is a zero compression cylinder as well. I can turn the engine off and crank it again and that symptom is gone. It would run just fine. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing. It has done that for about a year. Actually it started when I installed ecmlink i believe.

It's not worth fixing, sell it to me

 

[twisted954]

EVOIII 16g or buy a 14b and have it modded...I was just mentioning this in another thread, MAP can do stock frame turbo upgrades...a couple of the employees run modified stock frame turbos with comp wheel upgrades...they call them EF1's...they dont have them listed, but you can have them built...you would have to supply a stock frame turbo of some type MHI type i mean...not the T25 variety

 

[dsmboost84]

Definitely worth fixing. Sounds like the car is in good shape. I would look into a 14b or 16g and givin proper maintenance it will last a long time

 

[blazin_teg]

Since I will prob be goin with the fp big 28, are their any good o2 housings for the t25 turbine out there. Most I see are for the 16g or similar turbos.

 

[constant_proj21]

EVOIII 16g or buy a 14b and have it modded...I was just mentioning this in another thread, MAP can do stock frame turbo upgrades...a couple of the employees run modified stock frame turbos with comp wheel upgrades...they call them EF1's...they dont have them listed, but you can have them built...you would have to supply a stock frame turbo of some type MHI type i mean...not the T25 variety

The DSM EF1's are pretty bad ass. I unfortunately do not own a dsm anymore, so won't get to try one out, but a close friend of the company and coworker have them, and they have been praising them ever since the switch. The friend, had said he saw around 30psi to redline, and loves his setup (stock 2.0, e85, supporting mods, link, auto). They sound sweet to me

 

[blazin_teg]

Did a warm compression check. 170, 165, 160, 170. Starting on trans side. Not bad for 165,000 if you ask me.

 

[Hitmachine101]

good, low miles t25s are cheap, see them go every day for about 70 bucks, there not that saught after because their glorified hair driers but if you just want the car to run then thats a direct fix for an nice price, if you have other thoughts and close to 500 to drop in the car, much fun can be had ha ha

 

[JusMX141]

Once a T25 has blown to the point where it leaks more oil than the Deepwater Horizon and the shaft flops like a limp dick, it's junk....as in "not rebuildable". What you own is now a conversation piece, paperweight, or doorstop.

You'd be surprised the junk some guys send me to be rebuilt even though my Freelance ad specifies that the turbo not have shaft play bad enough to have caused wheel damage. Would these same guys take an engine block with a rod sticking through it to a machine shop with hopes of rebuilding it?

Find a replacement or upgrade.

 

[mitsukid82]

Once a T25 has blown to the point where it leaks more oil than the Deepwater Horizon and the shaft flops like a limp dick, it's junk....as in "not rebuildable". What you own is now a conversation piece, paperweight, or doorstop.

You'd be surprised the junk some guys send me to be rebuilt even though my Freelance ad specifies that the turbo not have shaft play bad enough to have caused wheel damage. Would these same guys take an engine block with a rod sticking through it to a machine shop with hopes of rebuilding it?

Find a replacement or upgrade.

I agree and if you can find a used one buy it and if not upgrade but I would keep a spare turbo laying around just in case you run into issues. Also be on top of your maintenance on your car. I worked for a dealer and people that neglected their cars usually paid the price

 

[blazin_teg]

Ok well I have ordered the parts to get me goin. I got a ported 68hta, fp manifold, pr o2 housing, fp 4 inch intake, FIC 850s, and an extreme psi 16g install kit. Already have ecmlink fuel lab regulator and fp sends a fuel pump with turbo orders. Fmic and exhaust will will have to come later but it should be ok on wastegate psi. I got into tearing it down today and came across some interesting "probable past problems" I saw my factory manifold had alot of cracks in it and also the turbo housing is cracked where the wastegate flapper is. Is this normal for 165,000 mile heat expansion and contraction? I have never seen this before but my experience isnt that great i've only put together a turbo da integra, a sr20 s13, and a rb25 s14. I traded the s14 for my eclipse, couldn't deal with these hot summers any more. I miss them all. Anyway here are a couple of pics.

 

[black91awdturbo]

Very common for cast to crack like that with tons of heat and age. You just bought some sweet parts, I think you will be very happy with your purchase.

 

[blazin_teg]

Well I have it all together. Holds 10 psi great for an internal gate. Turn it up with ecmlink when I get an aem map sensor. But while I was installing it. With the extreme psi 16g install kit, the 90 degree AN fitting was too bent. So i put in in a vice used a screwdriver to straighten it a little. I almost had it and on the last bend attempt, whatever they glue the elbows with separated and broke off. I glued it back with super glue. After driving I noticed it leaking. It was leaking from the screws that screw into the oil pan. So I fixed that with 2 nylon sink washers cause I couldn't find copper crush washers any where, and some rtv on the screw threads. While fixing that I noticed the superglue just crumbled. So I took the line off and cleaned it up and used jb weld on the inside where it was glued from the factory and used some on the outside. Do you think it will hold or should I just get a new one. Only thing, no one sells AN fittings close and I would have to order another one online.

 

[brian9397gsx]

Erg I wouldn't trust my car with that. If it blows apart and your doing a pull you would of just killed your motor along with that new turbo over a 15$elbow not something I'm sure you'd like to do. Why not just use your stock drain tube all you have to do is modify the bolt holes on the turbo side to get it to work. (hold a gasket to the end to see what i mean.