tuning is over my head

[crimsondragon]

Ok I'm still getting used to DSMLink. I'm kind of overwhelmed at all the info it's giving me still. I'm knocking like crazy at 2k to 3k RPMs. I'm seeing up to 12 degrees of knock. I don't know if it's phantom knock or what. I haven't touched any of the timing controls, fuel or airflow as of yet since I'm still zeroing my injectors in.

 

[turbosax2]

I can't open the file because it's a .doc file. It should be a .dat file.

 

[crimsondragon]

Sorry about that. It's up now. Forgive me if I didn't include any other data since I was only using the bare minimum to zero in the injectors. I honestly only have a vague idea what I'm doing so bear with me.

 

[turbosax2]

That's phantom knock. Go to 'ECU/Logfile' > 'Knock' and change the 'And TPS above' value to 30% or so. I don't see anything else wrong with the log. The only other thing I caught is to change your altitude for boostest if you're not at sea level. You can also change the drivetrain loss property to 0 to give your HP and torque estimates at the wheels if you want.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I'll be home doing a headswap tonight if you want to come by and let me have a look at it. Have you done a boost leak test lately?

 

[LandoAWD]

It's over my head, too.

I need an AFC and a logger.

 

[crimsondragon]

That's phantom knock. Go to 'ECU/Logfile' > 'Knock' and change the 'And TPS above' value to 30% or so. I don't see anything else wrong with the log. The only other thing I caught is to change your altitude for boostest if you're not at sea level. You can also change the drivetrain loss property to 0 to give your HP and torque estimates at the wheels if you want.

Alright I'll change the TPS settings then. Thanks. As for the altitude, I generally drive back and forth from a range of sealevel to 1000ft above cause of work in the Palisades. I will be at sealevel come September. Any other advice to help my jumpstart my tuning? I'll take what I can get.

I'll be home doing a headswap tonight if you want to come by and let me have a look at it. Have you done a boost leak test lately?

Thanks Tom but I can't. I have work this whole week so I got to stay in the city. I'll log it on the way home and I'll let you look it over during the weekend. Btw I'd love to help out with your build. Mods on my car are slowing down till parts come in. I will be getting my wideband in sometime this week. I am stoked.

 

[turbosax2]

Adjust the altitude for where you're currently tuning at. Once the car has a decent tune on it, you don't have to keep changing the altitude setting. Just pick the altitude you're at most of the time.

First, do you fuel trim tuning. Yours look very good now so little to no tuning will be needed.
http://jeffgst.com/gmafcalibration1.html
http://jeffgst.com/gmafcalibration2.html
http://jeffgst.com/boostestcurve.html

Until you get the wbo2 that's all I would do.

 

[crimsondragon]

I'm confused a bit. DSMLink manual states to use the global and deadtime settings to zero in on injectors. Jeff states to just adjust it based on the table and then make all further adjustments using fuel and airflow sliders. Since I'm using AFI's injectors which is not listed, what should I do? Input FIC 850s settings? I've been zeroing it in using the global and deadtime settings. Right now I have it set to 285 and -48%

 

[turboglenn]

Read as much liuterature as you can about the system you're working with and tuning in general. Before you know it all of this will be common knowledge to you and you will know things that need done just by driving the car, not even needing a datalog to tell you what's wrong. As with anything, practive is key, play with settings and once you get them right, throw them off just to feel what that particular problem would sound and feel like i.e.. too little timing, too rich an AFR etc.. dont' play with leaning and adding too much timing until you are well versed in teh ways of tuning and know how to safely drive a car that's tuned past "the edge" of safety

I know i haven't addressed any of your questions, but i just want to encourage you not to give up, read all you can, and learn how to properly tune and it will become something you love instead of something that frustrates and spooks you!

 

[kahl23]

I'm confused a bit. DSMLink manual states to use the global and deadtime settings to zero in on injectors. Jeff states to just adjust it based on the table and then make all further adjustments using fuel and airflow sliders. Since I'm using AFI's injectors which is not listed, what should I do? Input FIC 850s settings? I've been zeroing it in using the global and deadtime settings. Right now I have it set to 285 and -48%

There's a mathematical equation provided in the DSMLink User guide to help baseline injectors that aren't on the table. If you don't feel like doing that, then you could just use the FIC values.

 

[crimsondragon]

There's a mathematical equation provided in the DSMLink User guide to help baseline injectors that aren't on the table. If you don't feel like doing that, then you could just use the FIC values.

You mean this example? Adjustment = 450 / 720 – 1.0 = 0.625 – 1.0 = -0.375
I know that. I have AFI 850ccs. What I mean is not every injector flows the rate it's given. I heard one of the PTEs, maybe the 880's, flow like 850s or something like that.

I assume dialing them in is to compensate for the off-flow. I'm thinking which method is better. Jeff's or the DSMLink manual way. Turbosax says my adjustments are good but if Jeff's way offers something better then I'm willing to start all over. I wish the DSMLink wiki or their search function is a bit more efficient and held more info.

 

[No_Skillz]

Dialing them in (global and deadtime) is to compensate for the difference compared to stock 450's. The table with FIC 850's are just calculated to 850, so any injector rated as 850 will use those same values.

Further fine tuning based on LTFTs and STFT is the correction for the "off" flow (as you put it).

It's true that most injectors will flow a bit more than what they're rated at, but you won't know what that is unless you have them flow tested. However, that's really not necessary due to the fact that you will be adjusting them with your airlfow sliders based on LTFTs and STFT.

That is some really strange phantom knock. Is whatever is ticking still doing it in your head? I still haven't heard this sound you and Grace are imagining.

 

[spyderturbo007]

It's over my head, too.

I need an AFC and a logger.

Sign me up too. I think I had a better tune when I was running the SAFC than I do with DSMLink.

That and it's such a PIA to use. You have to drag out the laptop, run wires all over the cabin, find somewhere to set the laptop. Then you can't read anything because you've got the top down and it's sunny out, so you have to put the top up just to read the laptop screen. Blah, blah.

I'm sure it's a superior tuning device, if you can handle the hassle and figure the darn thing out.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I wouldn't worry about trying to dick around with the STFT/LTFT. Set global and dead time as per what dave/thomas have come up with in the DSMLink Wiki and fine tune them using the 50hz/150hz sliders. I've found this is a much more accurate (not to mention it's less of a PITA) way to tune with.

The 50h corresponds to STFt while the 150hz is LTFT. They are in a direct relationship with each other. If STFT is positive, add the same % in 50hz, if negative, take away that same %. same with LTFT & 150hz.

 

[No_Skillz]

I wouldn't worry about trying to dick around with the STFT/LTFT. Set global and dead time as per what dave/thomas have come up with in the DSMLink Wiki and fine tune them using the 50hz/150hz sliders. I've found this is a much more accurate (not to mention it's less of a PITA) way to tune with.

The 50h corresponds to STFt while the 150hz is LTFT. They are in a direct relationship with each other. If STFT is positive, add the same % in 50hz, if negative, take away that same %. same with LTFT & 150hz.

Tom, we gonna be in a fight! Thats not the correct way to do it!

50hz corresponds with LTFT Lo, 150hz is LTFT Mid.

LTFTs need to be matched with STFT, which is always an input regardless of your MAFRaw Hz.

When your MAFRaw is <50hz (idle), LTFT Lo is being adjusted by your ECU. The correct way to calibrate this is to add the two values of STFT and LTFT Lo together. E.g. if STFT = -4% and LTFT Lo = 5%, the correction at your 50hz slider should be +1% (-4+5=1).

Same thing is done for the 150hz slider, but your MAFRaw needs to read ~150hz (can be done by holding a rev).

Then rinse and repeat at the 250hz setting (can be done by a steady cruise).

And I can't stress this enough but A GOOD BLT MUST BE DONE BEFORE TUNING FOR ANYTHING or you're just wasting your time.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Tom, we gonna be in a fight! Thats not the correct way to do it!

50hz corresponds with LTFT Lo, 150hz is LTFT Mid.

LTFTs need to be matched with STFT, which is always an input regardless of your MAFRaw Hz.

When your MAFRaw is <50hz (idle), LTFT Lo is being adjusted by your ECU. The correct way to calibrate this is to add the two values of STFT and LTFT Lo together. E.g. if STFT = -4% and LTFT Lo = 5%, the correction at your 50hz slider should be +1% (-4+5=1).

Same thing is done for the 150hz slider, but your MAFRaw needs to read ~150hz (can be done by holding a rev).

Then rinse and repeat at the 250hz setting (can be done by a steady cruise).

And I can't stress this enough but A GOOD BLT MUST BE DONE BEFORE TUNING FOR ANYTHING or you're just wasting your time.

No you're right, Mike. I was getting ahead of myself with STFT (stuck in SAFC helping mode ). I wish you didn't quote me because I can't change it now! Thanks for the correction.