Transmission wont disengage.. Firm pedal. Fork seems fine. Doesnt move 100% towards p

[90TurboPOS]

My Clutch stopped disengauging after a hard 2-3 shift.. I hve modified the master cylinder (grinded down little leg things) put in a longer slave cyl rod.. Right now What I have going on is:

Pedal is firm. When I press it down I can see slave cyl rod come out and push the fork. Looking through the inspection hole thing I can see the pressure plate fingers getting squished.. Fork doesnt seam bent. It looks like the fork could possibly move farther to the left. It rests at about 50/50 (middle of the inspection hole) when compressed completely it could still move maybe 1 cm before the fork hits the bell housing.. Is that normal? It seams like everything is working fine except I cant move it in or out of gear.. If I start in first and leave the pedal depressed the car drives off... Looks like I have to pull the tranny? Clutch blew up? I'm afraid a lame clutch spring fell off or something but I want to exhaust all other solutions before I pull it to find out I didnt need to.

So.. How far towards the passanger side should the slave rod be able to push the fork? If its not pushing it far enough I still have a chance...

 

[tpi_roc]

I just went through the same ordeal and had the same problem. Every other post about this topic starts the exact same way too. "My clutch wont disengage" "Hey me too!" *post dies*.
Maybe we'll get lucky and this will be one that ends better but here's what I know. I have a completely welded clutch pedal assembly, with the master lever pushed towards the master while the weld started to give it a little bias. I also put a brass bushing in it in place of the nylon. The cruise control swtich is all the way back out of the way. I have the master sitting on the very last thread of the rod, probably not even the whole first thread, its basically pushing on the nut. The clutch fork doesnt' touch the bellhousing stop, or the outside edge of the bellhousing, but its not far from it either. The fork is centered right in the center of the hole when relaxed. Its been bled countless times and I'm certain its void of any air, contaminations, or water. The master cyl is brand new, the slave has 0 leaks, dry as a bone. No leaks on the lines anywhere, and the rubber hose does not buldge and is in excellent shape. The flywheel has a .609" step on an ACT 2100. There is no logical reason why My clutch shouldn't engage about 25% off the floor, but currently it does so at about 1", with the rod dangerously extended. I'm baffled but if I ever figure it out i'll be sure to make it known what fixed my scenerio, hope you find the answer to yours as well, please post if you do.

 

[Defiant]

My Clutch stopped disengauging after a hard 2-3 shift

which broke the shifter fork in the transmission, not the clutch fork.

 

[90TurboPOS]

which broke the shifter fork in the transmission, not the clutch fork.

Thanks for your response however I can go in and out of gear just fine when the car is off. Also I can try starting the car in different gears and confirm it is in the correct gear. I think this rules this case out?

Please let me know if you can think of any other possible ideas.

 

[90TurboPOS]

I'm going to start pulling the tranny tomorrow. I would hate to find out it wasnt needed too late. If anyone have any ideas or perhaps thinks that there is not enough hydrollic preassure (even though it drove for months like that and the slave cyl pushes it form the middle to about .5 cm form the bell housing.. and the fork is making the throughout bearing push the pressure plate fingers until they are about parrallel to the flywheel.. should they go father then that ) please let me know..

 

[tpi_roc]

From what I gather, you should be able to get your fork to hit the stop. I wouldn't drop a tranny untill I've achieved that without results. Have you bled your system with the stock slave rod, and the master rod adjusted in, then put in the extended rod and adjusted out the master?

 

[90TurboPOS]

From what I gather, you should be able to get your fork to hit the stop. I wouldn't drop a tranny untill I've achieved that without results. Have you bled your system with the stock slave rod, and the master rod adjusted in, then put in the extended rod and adjusted out the master?

The stop being the first medal hump that blocks your vision while looking through the little fork /inspection hole? mine does not hit it right now.. That seams like a good suggestion. I will force it to hit it some how.. Hopefully I can find my old slave rod.
Thanks!

 

[tpi_roc]

Yes, that stop. And depending on your pivot ball height, it may be very close to the outside edge of the clutch fork hole as well. Mine does not touch and I too tonight will be playing with bleeding/adjusting for that last critical bit of travel.

 

[tpi_roc]

Well I found my problem... I finally got my clutch fork close enough to the stop to disqualify it as the entire problem. When I took off the fork dust boot to verify the inner stop, out came a nice chunk of plastic from my TOB. Way to go, plastic, great idea... Anywho, problem solved, maybe it'll help you, either way my tranny is coming out, I really hope you can get out of dropping yours.

Good luck

 

[tpi_roc]

Just a follow up

New TOB and 1 washer under the fork ball fixed everything and gave me a lot of adjustment at the master rod

 

[jrpmp69]

I am having the same problem with mine, it all stated after replacing a completely worn clutch with a new ACT clutch and fidanza flywheel. My guess is that my release fork is worn and doesnt push in the pressure plate enough to completely release the clutch disc, i came to this conclusion becuase i can adjust the master cylinder rod to disengage a little off of the floor and push the pedal in a little farther than the disengaging point and it seems to release the clutch fine, the only problem is that i have to keep adjusting the pedal every couple of weeks because it stops working. I also think its the release fork becuase the first time i replaced the clutch was about a year ago at which time some gears seemed to grind a little then, now 50k miles later, the grind is a lot worse. I also replaced the TOB both times.