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Transfer Case - RTV Yoke sealing?

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ChiGGz

15+ Year Contributor
280
2
Aug 29, 2005
Toronto,
The guide I read said to RTV the bottom of the yolk as well as the splines. I need some clarification on that. Am I supposed to RTV the splines from end to end? How much RTV am I supposed to use?

Thanks
 
I am not positive about the 2g, but I know there is a Mitsu recall on the yoke for a 1G. If the VIN comes up as never receiving the recall maintenance then you can get it repaired free at Mitsu. I had mine done there a couple months ago. At the least you can get a new yoke and t-case seals with a fluid change. There is supposedly an upgraded yoke that doesn't leak. Mine isn't after 600 miles. Just an option and it is totally free including labor! I hope the 2g has this recall too...
 
The 2g has the same recall. Depending on the dealer, some will fix it again after it has been done before. Some will only fix it once.
 
I have had the recall done once already before I owned the car. I noticed that in the FAQ it says the bottom where you are supposed to RTV is made of brass. Mine doesn't look like it as it's all silvery at the bottom instead of the goldish brass tints.

Does this mean I have a "leak free" yolk?
 
My T-case seized right after I bought the car. The local Jeep dealership was jerking me around and I didn't want to pay for towing it more than once. I RTV'd the bottom of the hole in the yoke. I couldn't see crap down there, so there was now way to tell if it was brass or not. It has been almost a year now with no problems.
 
My T-case seized right after I bought the car. The local Jeep dealership was jerking me around and I didn't want to pay for towing it more than once. I RTV'd the bottom of the hole in the yoke. I couldn't see crap down there, so there was now way to tell if it was brass or not. It has been almost a year now with no problems.

I couldn't tell by your post, but did you replace the yolk or just the transfercase? Also, did you RTV the splines as well? If so how much of the splines did you cover with how much RTV?
 
I have had the recall done once already before I owned the car. I noticed that in the FAQ it says the bottom where you are supposed to RTV is made of brass. Mine doesn't look like it as it's all silvery at the bottom instead of the goldish brass tints.

Does this mean I have a "leak free" yolk?

They can still leak. My car has had the recall done and the yoke was still leaking when I bought the car. I suppose you could say the dealer performed the repair incorrectly (just replaced the yoke seal, for example), but I wasn't going to take that chance. I bought the recall yoke and covered the plug on the u-joint side with JB Weld. :D
 
This is from the VFAQ

This is the infamous yoke, still attached to the driveshaft. You can clean it out (use up like half a can of brake parts cleaner), and then carefully coat the inside bottom plug (you'll see it easily with a flashlight, it is obviously brass) with about 1/4" of RTV. Make sure the RTV goes into the splines too, or you are doing no good at all.
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That's what I don't understand is that it says to do the splines as well. Why would you RTV the splines?
 

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How do you think the fluid gets into the yoke in the first place? It sneaks through the splines of course!
 
How do you think the fluid gets into the yoke in the first place? It sneaks through the splines of course!

I thought it was common place for the fluid to get into the splines to reduce wear.

Just go to dsm.org and see FAQ/drivetrain/leaks.There is a very detailed explanation with pictures.

Of the two links there, only one works. And that's what I'm basing this question on as well as the quote above.
 
I thought it was common place for the fluid to get into the splines to reduce wear.

You're right, but the splines are pretty darn long so presumably the guide is suggesting to RTV the splines closest to the yoke plug and not the whole length.

I'd like to speak to the author of that VFAQ myself, because I found it near impossible to work the RTV with any kind of precision all the way down there.
 
Nope, I just left the inside as it was. I did pack the u-joint side of the plug with JB Weld though.
 
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