The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Transfer Case Carnage

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

You sill need a press in order to get that race off the shaft. The bearing splitter set should have a little puller with it, but they usually aren't strong enough to get these apart. You will also need the press to press the new bearing on.

I did mine with a BFH and an old output shaft, two smacks and it came apart.
 
That failure is caused due to lack of oil. Mits has a recall on that and you could have got a new t-case for free if you didn't take yours apart.

Good luck with the tcase recall. I tried getting the recall on my recently acquired 97. After 10 years they do not have to honor the recall. I got this from Chrysler and from NHTSA. If they honor the recall it's at their discretion. They do not legally have to do so anymore.
 
Good luck with the tcase recall. I tried getting the recall on my recently acquired 97. After 10 years they do not have to honor the recall. I got this from Chrysler and from NHTSA. If they honor the recall it's at their discretion. They do not legally have to do so anymore.

I called them up just to check. The recall was already performed on this car.

I also asked if they had any t-cases for sale. They do... for $4000 ROFLROFLROFL
 
bastarddsm's BFH = Big FN Hammer


...BFH is also the LSD type rear differential you might have. Otherwise it's BFB (non-LSD)
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I called them up just to check. The recall was already performed on this car.

I also asked if they had any t-cases for sale. They do... for $4000 ROFLROFLROFL

Then the both of you did not push hard enough. The answers you got are typical and a way for them to dodge from doing the work. Dealerships don't make sense, or 'cents'. They will be sitting around on the verge of going out of business yet refuse any job which will cut their pay just a little. From what I understand, for recall jobs, they don't get paid the full labor amount, so they try to get away from them. They would rather make $0 an hour than make a cut of what they think they should. If I owned or worked at a dealership on the verge of shutting down, you'd bet I would be taking in any job I could to get something, but they will refuse until they go out of business.

We have had 2 Mits dealerships shut down in C/S. Maybe it's because my company gets all of the cars, but it could also be that they refuse any warranty or recall job.

If you do some homework, and get snippy with them, they will do it. I have had several vehicles recalled due to the fact that the customer followed my advice and didn't give up so easily. If you walk away when they give you the oldest excuse in the book, and don't push your case, they win again.

This t-case recall is a SAFETY RECALL! It's doesn't matter if they replaced the t-case 99 times in the past, they will have to do it the 100th time again. It doesn't matter who owns the car, it's history or whatever excuse they come up with.

Some dealerships are better than others. The Mits dealer here is very difficult to deal with. The Chrysler dealer is easy. The stronger the customer and the more willing they are to talk to the manager and be fully prepared with their homework will get them a free t-case. The person that gives up with the first excuse they pull out of their hat will get nothing.

I would suggest taking the coupler to a machine shop. It will only take them a few seconds to remove the bearing and safely press the new one on. It also may not be a bad idea to leave all of your parts with them and have them run it through their cleaning equipment for a small fee so you have a clean unit to assemble.

I would agree with the posts above. You should not need to reshim it as it sits as all of the factory replacement parts should fit the same as your originals. Just assemble the coupler end of the t-case and turn it. You should feel some resistance. That resistance is preload and is good. If it is loose, then that's bad. Same on the pinion end. Don't forget to change out your drive-shaft yoke.

Good luck!

Jack
 
Sure, let me know what you need and I'll see what I can do. I do not have t-case parts anywhere on our website. I would have to try to price everything out manually.

Thanks!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top