Tranny bolt Keeps Backing out

[RedEyeBanDiT]

Hey My 93 1g, I lost the front bellhousing bolt, caused my bellhousing to eventually crack.
Got it welded put 6k miles on it, then lost the bolt again.
Just replaced it, did 60 miles and the bolt backed halfway out. Luckily the bellhousing didnt crack.

Whats causing this? Motor mounts? Too much vibration?

Anyone run into this problem before?

 

[b00stedeagle]

I also have had problems with all the transmission to engine bolts coming loose. If the small bolt is missing or loose that bolts in beneath the starter, through the engine block and threads in the transmission.

After installing and torquing this bolt correctly. I no longer have problems with the larger bolts backing out. And I also have solid north and south mounts and poly side mounts.

 

[boostedstang]

What tiny bolt are you guys talking about? I just put my tranny back up and realized there are only 3 bolts holding her onto the block (2 more from the tranny mount to the chassi). There is one hole towards the back of the block that is threaded on the engine side but not threaded on the tranny side (just under the starter), what goes there? Are most 1g's like this?



Umm hope I'm not thread jacking, my bad.

i got the same thing, can anyone answer this. i am new to dsm stuff. i am having a problem with my bolts putting it all back and just wondering what kind of bolt goes there. block is threaded and tranny is not but you cant get a bolt through tranny to block because of the tranny housing. help guys

 

[1995gsx20g]

i got the same thing, can anyone answer this. i am new to dsm stuff. i am having a problem with my bolts putting it all back and just wondering what kind of bolt goes there. block is threaded and tranny is not but you cant get a bolt through tranny to block because of the tranny housing. help guys

there is one little bolt that goes threw a hollow dowel under the starter that goes in the opposite way compared to the other bellhousing bolts.

 

[pboglio]

You can use these as well: http://www.nordlock.com/. Available at Mcmaster Carr. I'm using them in a design to replace masterbond which is a medical grade type locking compound. These babies work where any other lockwasher normally gives up. Good for you ballers especially on rock hard suspensions with high amounts of vibration. Not cheap but pretty cool technology.

 

[1995gsx20g]

You can use these as well: Nord-Lock - Maximum security for bolted joints - Home. Available at Mcmaster Carr. I'm using them in a design to replace masterbond which is a medical grade type locking compound. These babies work where any other lockwasher normally gives up. Good for you ballers especially on rock hard suspensions with high amounts of vibration. Not cheap but pretty cool technology.

Very nice, i just went threw their site and read an issue of Bolted.

Also the price isn't too bad for what they can handle..

 

[pboglio]

Yeah, what sold me on these was this: http://www.nord-lock.com/video/nl_us.wmv

Before this I told my manager, "Yeah, a set of split washers will be fine."WTF

Where these have little chance of working is on exhaust manifolds that have been heat cycled alot and surface/thru hardened, the washers have to dig in to both surfaces to work. On a recent 13g auto tranny manifold I tried to resurface the head flange and basically with a set of fairly new hand files I couldn't even make a scratch in the manifold surface for over 20 minutes of filing. The manifold was much much harder than the files and this was the first time I ever experienced this.

Anyhow, I think these or your standard blue/green/red loctite pretty much should solve most locking needs.

 

[ntdsmr87]

locktite and a washer and 50 ftlbs of torque or watever spec supposed to b used

 

[1995gsx20g]

That video really puts shame on split lock washers, in some applications your almost better off with a nylon

As with the exhaust manifolds i don't really think the heat cycle is a problem and while watching that little clip i thought of a few ways i could make the nordlock washer work with exhaust manifolds..

The only issue is the one washer that has to contact the manifold like you said the manifold is most likely to hard for it to dig into. But if that washer was secured to the manifold semi-permanently, you would still be able to remove the exhaust manifold as easy as before. It would only need to be removed when using a different exhaust manifold.

you could tack it on or even get a little creative with a M1 or M2 set screw threaded into the manifold and a hole in the washer slightly larger than the set screw only there to prevent it from rotating kinda of like a homemade dowel pin