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tps sensor out of adjustment

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greyspyder117

10+ Year Contributor
373
2
Oct 13, 2008
Bronx, New York
I am just wondering what this would cause. I have ecmlink and when i press the pedal all the way down it only reaches 88%. What i have my foot on the pedal about 3/8 to 1/4 it still reads 0%. I am asking this question because i am kinda getting a jerk on the highway when i slowly let off the pedal. Is the computer seeeing throttle closed but it really isn't so the ecu thinks it is decelerating and cuts fuel but the throttle is still open... Does that make sense. I know i need to adjust it but won't have the chance to do it till Sunday. I thought motor or tranny mounts at first but they all seem good. Any input?
 
What Scott said, only .64v. If you're picky like me, you'll get out with a volt-meter and do it all by hand.
 
You'll want to do it by hand at first as Kei described, and then run the wizard as Scott described. You won't be able to get it to read 0% at .63v and 100% at 5v by just using a voltmeter. Usually it won't go all the way in one direction or the other.

Also make sure you have nothing under your pedal when running the wizard (e.g. floor mat).

Get your numbers right, Kei ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
"The ECU wants to see 0.63v from the TPS sensor when your foot is off the throttle and greater than, say, 4.6v when you're fully on it."

~ECMLink Wiki

However, it's close enough :p

:p I recall a discussion over it needing to be .64v somewhere and that's what I've always used. As Mike says, I just have the patience of a Saint when it comes to adjusting the TPS by hand.

I do, however, confirm it with Link and here recently have jut been running the TPS adjustment when needed if I make any TB adjustments. Just make sure to get a good, full, steady swing from 0% to 100% and then back out before you use the adjustment tool in Link.

Also, just to throw this out there, any time that you adjust that throttle cable, you're tossing the reading from the TPS off. So you need to set your Throttle Cable tension and Throttle Plate adjustment screw BEFORE you adjust the TPS.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
:p I recall a discussion over it needing to be .64v somewhere and that's what I've always used. As Mike says, I just have the patience of a Saint when it comes to adjusting the TPS by hand.

I do, however, confirm it with Link and here recently have jut been running the TPS adjustment when needed if I make any TB adjustments. Just make sure to get a good, full, steady swing from 0% to 100% and then back out before you use the adjustment tool in Link.

Also, just to throw this out there, any time that you adjust that throttle cable, you're tossing the reading from the TPS off. So you need to set your Throttle Cable tension and Throttle Plate adjustment screw BEFORE you adjust the TPS.

I seemed to have a habit of putting out the wrong number back then as Brian scolded me in person one day LOL
 
:p I recall a discussion over it needing to be .64v somewhere and that's what I've always used. As Mike says, I just have the patience of a Saint when it comes to adjusting the TPS by hand.

I do, however, confirm it with Link and here recently have jut been running the TPS adjustment when needed if I make any TB adjustments. Just make sure to get a good, full, steady swing from 0% to 100% and then back out before you use the adjustment tool in Link.

Also, just to throw this out there, any time that you adjust that throttle cable, you're tossing the reading from the TPS off. So you need to set your Throttle Cable tension and Throttle Plate adjustment screw BEFORE you adjust the TPS.

Thanks guys for the help... When you say the throttle plate adjustment screw you mean BISS?
 
No, the screw Kei is referring to is the screw near the throttle cable bracket (back of throttle body) which sets where the plate rests when closed.

Exactly. I believe the proper adjustment is - Turn the screw in until it meets the throttle plate, then follow by a quarter turn of the screw. After you do that, go about adjusting the TPS and the BISS. Chime in for correction on this one.
 
I've never played with a 2g screw, but the basic concept (at least on a 1g, which I'm assuming is true for the 2g) is you want it far enough out to make sure the throttle plate is fully close, but just enough in to keep the plate from sticking when slams shut from WOT. You can pull the screw out, play with the throttle bracket to open/let fly shut, and then try to open it again. It will probably be pretty tough to open. Then start screwing it in slowly until the throttle plate doesn't stick after you let it fly shut.
 
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