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TopLine Rebuild Questions

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I would say spend the bulk of your budget on the bottom end, and get it right, you can always com back and swap cams later, or if need be do a head swap.

Thats about it.
Ok so if your ditching the pistons and bearings in the topline kit, why not just get the gasket kit? As I remember that topline kit was 3-500$?
You already factor in waterpump, timing belt stuff and anything else you are missing?(motor mounts ect). New battery maby, old one's been sitting a while now hasn't it?
 
Thats about it.
Ok so if your ditching the pistons and bearings in the topline kit, why not just get the gasket kit? As I remember that topline kit was 3-500$?

I thought the same thing.

To the original Poster, you might want to upgrade your valvetrain if your set on 272's and 30psi. I don't think the 16g will get you 30psi efficiently. 550cc injectors won't be able to keep up with 30psi. I don't think a 255 will keep up with 30psi either. Save up another 400-500 for the little things you overlooked in your build. A tune will probably run you a few hundred bucks if you get it done. Right now your bottle neck for hp is your injectors. I'd say maybe 250-270ish wheel horsepower with 550's.

ARP headstuds will have an allen key in the top.
 
I mean if Slowboy Racing trusts the parts I'm good.


Should I be using different head gasket if I plan on running more boost with a meth kit?

What SBR trusts and whats right can vary at times. :rolleyes: IMO the best way to use anything Redline is throwing it in the garbage. Thats oil/water pumps, gaskets, anything.

Mitsu 4 layer head gasket and ARPs will be plenty to run 20-25psi and maybe a little more. They arnt TOO expensive but the few extra $$$ for whats proven is enough insurance for. As for a meth kit it really shouldnt matter its more of how much boost it will be handling.:thumb:
 
I don't know what cams are in my head. I had a problem with my head brought it to machine shop they fixed it same day all I asked for was to check in and let me know what it needed. So they fixed the head for $300 and I refused to pay that for cleaning and 10 new valves.

They gave me a head, which to me looks to be from a galant. Its got 2g intake and exhuast ports but is got the head holes the size of 1g. So between what others have told me I'm not sure what cams I have in the head they are labeled Intake (A) and Exhaust (C) so to be sure they are even turbo cams I'm gonna just get 272's for it.

Also the topline kit comes with what seems to be more parts then the PartDino for $78.

I know the topline kit comes with everything for a rebuild. The parts dino with all parts came to $300 so if topline is $220 I'm saving so far.

Does anyone know if the PartDino kit comes with freeze plugs also?

I know there will be limits to my setup at the time, I just plan on running 30psi as my goal for my car.
 
Also the topline kit comes with what seems to be more parts then the PartDino for $78.

I know the topline kit comes with everything for a rebuild. The parts dino with all parts came to $300 so if topline is $220 I'm saving so far.


Since you will be utilizing aftermarket pistons, rods, and bearings have you considered just getting the Topline overhaul gasket kit for $120? You can save a lot of money if this is all you need.
 
OK. I decided to get a totally different setup then this topline one.

Got the MLS and other gaskets.

Wiseco Pistons 85.5mm 8.3:1
Scat H-Beam Rods
ACL Race Bearings
272 Cams

Now I just need to know what the gap should be on the rings for my goals. The car is a street car will be daily driven on 18 or less psi(LO).. For fun 25psi (HI). And when I get more support mods the goal of 30psi.

I have gotten a few different numbers. According to the card in the wiseco piston kit says top .016 and .018 bottom for Street Moderate Turbo/Nos.


I have been researching and it seems I might want .019 top and .021-.022 bottom.. On the chart provided by wiseco the label for these numbers is Circle/Drag and Blown Race Only.
Anyone got some input?


85.5mm
3.366

Application----------------------------------- Top Ring----------Bottom Ring
High Perf. Street/Strip --------------------.0045 (.015)--------.0050 (.017)
Street-Moderate Turbo/NOS--------------.0050 (.016)--------.0055 (.018)
Late Model Stock---------------------------.0050 (.016)--------.0055 (.018)
Circle Track/Drag Race--------------------.0055 (.018)--------.0060 (.020)
Blown Race Only---------------------------.0065 (.021)--------.0070 (.023)
NOS Only------------------------------------.0070 (.023)-------.0075 (.025)

I would label my setup as Circle Track/Drag Race and Blown Race Only....

I have seen a few people say not to go more then .19 for my top ring.
 
if you go with the little larger ring gap, the most you should havew is a little oil smoke. I would go a with the larger one just so you will have a bit more safty , and keep the rings from butting ends and popping a ring land.
 
To keep my rebuild price down it was cheaper to order from many different suppliers.. So I have packages coming in every 2 days from UPS there gonna hate me


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The machine shop wanted the pistons. So I brought them there today. They are in the process of doing the work. I told them no rush so I had some time to get another grand saved up. They should have it done by next week.

There paper work I got said

Clean Block
-Clean up at .020 over $48

Bore and Hone Block $65

Check Crankshaft $15
-Polish Crankshaft $35
*Will use std sized bearings

Check Head N/C

Valve Job $235
-Chk for cracks, clean & hot tank: replace valve stem seals, grind valves & seats, set valve stem heights, resurface

Deck Block $60
-Deck Block for use of Tri-metal gakset

Hazmat $7

Grand Total $505
 
be careful of what equipment they use on your head.

DO NOT let them surface your head on a belt surfacer!! it will put your head out of square and not be the proper surface finish for the MLS HG.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

also have the head thickness measured! I would recomend that you do this mod.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

I have measured a few of the oil troughs, and based on that and what the "new" thickness of the head should be, the trough needs to be appox .080 deep

also If they have a seat stone grinder, I would recomend that you find another shop to do the Valve job.

Also, on the block, are they using a torque plate? with the main caps toqued to specs too? Are they decking the block also?

Are you having the rortating assembly balanced? you should be, crank, rods, pistons,t-belt gear balancer, flwheel and clutch plate all need to be balanced as a unit.

Read this, its a great write up by DSMT wise man Big Woo
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/303225-engine-machine-work-explained.html

Best of Luck with your build up!
 
Quick question about tools/machines and procedures?

I didn't ask how they were doing the process of the work.

I understand to ask them or make sure they are using this or that type of machine but why would they also do it the wrong way? I'm gonna call and double check but if your listing the way you should do it why wouldn't they know whats the correct way?

Say I didn't have DSMtuners.com and I went into a shop and dropped my block and head off and didn't give instructions they would mess it up?

I'm not debating your advice.

Is it just because they may not understand the upgraded parts I'm installing or is the process to do are machine work different then you would do it on another cars engine?
 
Quick question about tools/machines and procedures?

I didn't ask how they were doing the process of the work.

I understand to ask them or make sure they are using this or that type of machine but why would they also do it the wrong way? I'm gonna call and double check but if your listing the way you should do it why wouldn't they know whats the correct way?

Say I didn't have DSMtuners.com and I went into a shop and dropped my block and head off and didn't give instructions they would mess it up?

I'm not debating your advice.

Is it just because they may not understand the upgraded parts I'm installing or is the process to do are machine work different then you would do it on another cars engine?

it comes down to the equipment, the price of it, its not cheap by any means, and there are several diffrent machines that do the same job , but in diffrent ways, some are not as accurate as others.

there is surfacing equipment still being used that was made back in the 50's and 60's it will not give the finish that your alum head needs to seal with a MLS gasket.

the same goes for Valve seat grinding equipment.
 
prostreetdsmx1,

Next time I go towards Coco Beach I'll swing thru see what you guys got going on! I use to live in NJ up until 2 years ago never made it to your shop in PA. I been to TurboTrix way to may times!

ttyl buddy
 
Got everything back today.. It's been 2 months and a few days since I dropped it all off, but things came back great!

The head was cleaned and valve seals replaced and valves cleaned up and valve seats cleaned up.

How do things look?


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Regrinds 272's

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Bearing was chewed up good on the center main
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On my paperwork it said that I have to do a Final wash with dawn is required before install..

So what do I have to do? I got to order freeze plugs now I see then didn't include that in the price.
 
Hey..

I got started working on my engine. I only do 2 to 3hrs everyday I go because my car is at my dads house since he has garage.

I got the engine really clean and I got a engine cleaning brush kit from a local smoke shop (open till 11pm) and I got a Hooka Cleaning kit for $10. Same thing basically as the kit at Autozone and used lots of compressed air then oiled it down with PB blaster.

Today I installed the crank and checked it with plastiage then installed my oil sprayers and got one piston done with the rings installed.

I will get the rest of the rings done tomorrow I just need to know how to install the rods in what direction.

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More tomorrow
 

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My g/f - She paid for the motor so thanks a lot baby!
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Painted timing belt cover Hammer Gray to match rest of paint scheme

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